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Hakka gourmet
Hakka dishes are full of flavor.

When you come to Meizhou, Ganzhou, Tingzhou, Huizhou, Zengcheng and other places with the largest number of Hakkas, you will be deeply attracted by thousands of Hakka dishes. Many overseas travelers who have left their hometown for many years are addicted to tasting Hakka food left in their childhood memories as soon as they return home. A 90-year-old overseas Chinese once said emotionally that it is not as good as the farmhouse food in his hometown to taste all kinds of delicacies and drink all kinds of jade liquid and nectar! Nowadays, in many big cities in China, it is not difficult to find the "figure" of Hakka cuisine. Even in many Chinese restaurants overseas, Hakka dishes such as braised pork, clear water carp balls, Meizhou stuffed tofu and Meizhou brine chicken are very popular ... Hakka diets can be divided into two categories: one is Hakka dishes and the other is Hakka snacks.

First of all, because the Hakkas used to live in the mountains, the labor intensity was high, and there was little meat and food, and fatty food could effectively satisfy their hunger; Secondly, Hakka people have to eat porridge at least once a day because of the long-term lack of food, and most of them have porridge all the year round and have less water. The cooked porridge "blows away a layer of waves and drinks a lane", which is salty and suitable for sending porridge and increasing the salt in the body; Thirdly, there are many plants and trees in mountainous areas, and Hakka people have developed the habit of burning firewood, feeling that the more cooked the food, the more fragrant it is. There are many theories about the origin of Hakka, mainly including Hakka Zhongyuan theory and Hakka mixed-race theory. The theory of Hakka Central Plains holds that the main body of Hakka is immigrants from the Central Plains, while the theory of Hakka hybrids holds that "Hakka * * * is the same body, which is a mixture of Han people who moved south and ancient Vietnamese immigrants in the triangle of Fujian, Guangdong and Jiangxi." Since the Song Dynasty, the Han nationality in the Central Plains moved southward on a large scale, passed through Jianghuai and Jiangxi, and reached the border areas of southern Jiangxi, western Fujian and northern Guangdong, and finally formed a relatively mature and stable Hakka clan. Since then, Hakka people have migrated to the whole country and even the rest of the world based on the border areas of Fujian, Guangdong and Jiangxi. The four Hakka States are Meizhou, Ganzhou, Tingzhou and Huizhou.

After experiencing difficulties and obstacles, Hakkas live in the border areas of Fujian, Guangdong and Jiangxi. Because the central plains and the border area between Fujian, Guangdong and Jiangxi belong to the hinterland, the non-staple food used in Meizhou Hakka cuisine is livestock and wild vegetables, and there is little seafood. There is a saying that "no chicken is not clear, no meat is not fresh, no duck is not fragrant, no elbow is not thick". Over time, Hakka cuisine gradually became its own.

In Meizhou, the capital of Hakka, common Hakka dishes can be divided into two categories: Hakka dishes and Hakka snacks. Hakka cuisine, Chaozhou cuisine and Guangzhou cuisine are also called the three major cuisines in Guangdong. The formation of Hakka cuisine flavor is inseparable from the formation of Hakka people. Just as Hakka dialect retains the ancient charm of Zhongzhou, Meizhou Hakka cuisine also retains the traditional life customs of Zhongzhou. With the continuous improvement of people's living standards in Meizhou, people are more and more interested in food culture. Many Hakka traditional and innovative dishes are increasingly favored by people because of their unique flavor and economic benefits.

The society is constantly changing, and Meizhou Hakka cuisine is also constantly innovating. In recent years, it has gradually formed several advantages of "original flavor and delicious taste": first, it emphasizes the selection of wild domestic coarse grains, that is, pollution-free "green food"; Second, cooking methods are mostly boiling, stewing, steaming and stewing, which does not destroy the nutrition and fiber of food; The third is to add little or no seasoning, generally seasoning with raw onions and cooked garlic; Fourth, diet pays attention to health care efficacy, and more folk Chinese herbal medicines are used to regulate yin and yang, clear fire and tonify diarrhea. Nowadays, the innovation of Hakka cuisine is reflected in three aspects: first, it draws lessons from traditional Hakka cooking methods such as steaming, stewing, stewing and brewing to other cuisines such as frying, frying and frying; Second, from using only wild poultry meat as raw materials to using high-grade foods such as delicacies and seafood as raw materials; Thirdly, from the simple appearance and color in the past to the pursuit of good color, fragrance, taste and shape today, it shows that Meizhou Hakka cuisine is constantly learning from others and innovating.

Traditional Meizhou Hakka dishes attract diners with strong Shan Ye flavor and distinctive rural characteristics. Compared with Guangzhou cuisine, Hakka cuisine is good at home cooking, simple and generous, with reasonable nutrition. And cooking is more, the soup is clear without too many ingredients, emphasizing what the meat tastes like. On September 24th this year, the national judges selected by Guangdong Cuisine Association named the top ten traditional Hakka dishes and the top ten innovative Hakka dishes in Meizhou. This competition has created a Hakka food culture atmosphere in Meizhou, which has a far-reaching impact on promoting the development of the tourist food industry in our city and creating an "excellent tourist city in China".

In recent years, many tourism enterprises in our city are also skillfully using Hakka dishes to create characteristic tourism brands and promote the development of tourism industry with food culture. For example, in recent years, Wei Long Hotel, Tian Fei Tea House, Yannan, Meizhou has launched a series of Hakka dishes and Hakka-style snacks that are well received by tourists; More than 20 varieties of medicinal diet soup were developed from Nanyao in Yanming Lake Tourism Resort, Meixian District, Meizhou City. The county party committee and government of Dabu took the lead in promoting local food culture. This year, a high-standard Tongren Road Food Street has been built and opened. In recent years, Meizhou Xingyuan Hotel, relying on Chengde Tower, a beautifully built large-scale Hakka dragon enclosure, has carefully built a brand with Hakka food culture characteristics of "Eat Hakka food for a day, be a Hakka for a day and live a Hakka life for a day", attracting many overseas Chinese and tourists from the Pearl River Delta.

Hakka cuisine is an important carrier of Meizhou's grand goal of building a world-class guest capital and cultural Meizhou, and has unique conditions for promoting Hakka food culture. At present, Meizhou Municipal Party Committee, Municipal Government and relevant functional departments are preparing to actively build a platform for the establishment of the city's cooking industry associations, insist on holding a tourism and food festival with the contents of "famous shops, chefs, dishes and snacks", and declare the creation of "China Hakka Food Town" to make unremitting efforts for Meizhou Hakka tourism and food industry to reach a new height.

However, we should also be soberly aware that Hakka cuisine in Meizhou is insufficient in inheriting the tradition, and some traditional and ancient cooking methods of Hakka cuisine and Hakka snacks are gradually lost, but in terms of innovation, there is a tendency to blindly imitate other cuisines; In addition, Meizhou Hakka cuisine is far inferior to Guangzhou cuisine and Chaozhou cuisine in brand packaging and publicity, and inferior to western food and some Chinese fast food restaurants in industrialization, modernization and popularization. Changting, the Hakka Food Capital in West Fujian

Changting County, Fujian Province is a famous overseas Hakka capital and the most representative city in the history of Hakka settlement. Every year, a large number of Hakkas from Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan and Southeast Asia return to Tingting to find their roots and ancestors, and hold a ceremony to pay homage to the Hakka mother river as a world guest.

Tingzhou cuisine is famous at home and abroad, and is known as "eating in Changting". In 2004, Changting was named "China Hakka Cuisine Hometown" and "Fujian Cuisine City". One of the most important features of Changting cuisine is its outstanding "original flavor". Cooking rarely uses monosodium glutamate, or even monosodium glutamate. In addition, sugar is also used less. Food coloring has never been used. There are many dishes in the menu, such as steaming, stewing, brewing, stewing and boiling. Braised beef brisket, steamed white eel, turtle swimming in the river, braised fish belly, braised fish, steamed whole fish, clear soup frog, steamed mandarin duck pigeon, Shuang Yan Yingchun, etc. These dishes have a unique Hakka flavor, and "Changting Dried Tofu" ranks first among the eight dried vegetables in Tingzhou, with a history of 1000 years, and enjoys a good reputation at home and abroad. Together with Changting persimmon brown sugar, it was used as a tribute in previous dynasties. Changting River is one of the five famous chickens in China. "Bai Duo He Jiang" has always been listed as the first dish in Changting. 1986 was awarded the title of "local flavor dishes" by Fujian province. "Kirin is born", also known as "paparazzi wrapped in pork belly", is also one of Changting's famous dishes. Won the title of "Quality Cuisine" in Fujian Province. Changting cuisine won many provincial and municipal food awards 10. In the prosperous times, when you wander over the beautiful ancient city of Changting, who is not deeply intoxicated by the food here! Meijiang District: Meizhou Salt Baked Series (chicken, chicken wings, chicken feet, duck feet, etc. ); Meatball series (pork balls, beef balls); Fried shredded taro, fried shredded pumpkin, fairy hairpin, Meizhou sufu, Meizhou instant noodles.

Meixian District: Shatian pomelo (Meizhou Golden Pomelo) and its series products, dried vegetables, Meizhou Hakka Niang wine, Song Yuan maltose, boiled and steamed pills in Bingcun.

Changting: nine niang in Tingzhou, Dongguazan, Baizhanhe River, taro jiaozi, soaked pork loin, Tingzhou Zhenwan, Tingzhou fried meatballs, fried potato chips and Changting rice noodles.

Xingning: dancong tea, longan (dried), stuffed tofu, stuffed bitter gourd, fried chicken wine, stuffed board, ginger sugar, Tian Yang wine, Hou Rongji beef jerky, braised pork and meatballs.

Plain: persimmon radish seedling tea

Jiao Ling: Green tea, beef jerky in Baidu homesickness.

Tai Po: Dried bean curd, yuba, bamboo shoots, mouse version, and noodles.

Fengshun: Ginger sugar, bamboo sticks and dried bean curd.

Wuhua: Changle shochu tofu meatballs

Ancient bamboo: stuffed tofu and braised dried fish.

Yongding: taro buns, xia yang beef balls, duck feet.

Liancheng Red Heart Sweet Potato Dried: It is one of the famous "Eight Major Works in West Fujian" with a history of 200-300 years. In the Qing dynasty, it was a precious dish as a tribute at court banquets, and it was known as "golden potato chips". Liancheng has also become a famous "hometown of dried sweet potatoes with red hearts". Liancheng village has soft soil, moderate acid and alkali, and suitable climate, which is very suitable for the growth of this red-hearted sweet potato. This dried sweet potato keeps its natural color and quality. Yellow and red in color, sweet in taste, soft in texture and rich in nutrition. Exported to Southeast Asia, North America and other countries and regions.

Liancheng White Moose Duck: Liancheng White Moose Duck is produced in Liancheng County, Longyan City, Fujian Province, with black mouth, black feet and white feathers. According to the records of Ten Medicine Classics in Qing Dynasty, Liancheng White Duck is an auxiliary diet food for many diseases such as hemoptysis and tuberculosis. Traditional Chinese medicine and folk believe that it has the effects of clearing away heat and toxic materials, nourishing yin, reducing pathogenic fire, resolving phlegm, inducing resuscitation, calming the heart, calming the nerves, stimulating appetite and strengthening the spleen. It is widely used to treat measles, liver fire, unknown low-grade fever in children and bloody dysentery, and has analgesic and adjuvant effects on cancer patients. Daoguang period in Qing Dynasty was listed as a treasure and a tribute. According to the experiments in the biology department of Xiamen University and the central room of the Provincial Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Liancheng white-tailed duck contains 17 amino acids and 10 essential trace elements, and its cholesterol content is extremely low. 1999165438+10, the poultry industry association of China held the "Liancheng White Duck Industry Development Seminar" in Beijing, and agreed that white duck is an excellent rare germplasm resource in China and a national quintessence of ducks. Liancheng white mule duck is the leading industry of agriculture in Liancheng County. Liancheng White Raccoon Duck, also known as Liancheng White Duck, is listed as one of the excellent livestock breeds in China by the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, and is the only medicinal duck in China. Liancheng is the hometown of China White Duck.

Fengshun binding board: also known as rice noodle board and rolled board, is a great creation of Hakka ancestors migrating from north to south. Because there is no wheat and no flour to make spring rolls, rice flour is used as the skin instead of spring rolls. The smell of the north wind and the south is unique. In the south of Meizhou, almost every family will cook it, everyone loves it, and street food stalls are also sold from time to time.

Shuan Jiu Pin: Shuan Ming Cai, a traditional famous wine in Liancheng, is commonly known as Shuan Jiu Men Tou. It is made of nine essential parts of beef, namely, the tip of beef tongue, tripe, ox heart crown, tripe tip, lean beef, tripe tip, beef cardiovascular system, sirloin and tripe wall. It is made by strict selection of materials, fine knife work, supplemented by seasonings, rice wine and several Chinese herbal medicines. This dish is tender and crisp, and the soup is delicious. It has the effects of invigorating stomach and kidney, dispelling cold and removing dampness, and is a delicious food with both medicine and food. Because it is the meat of nine parts of a cow, which almost contains the main essence of the cow, there is also a saying of "eating a cow at a time".

Yongding taro bag: Taro bag is one of the classic cuisines of Hakka people with a long history. "If there are no mountains, there are no guests in the mountains" and "Sweet potatoes and taro are half a year's grain". Most Hakkas live in mountainous areas, and taro is the main miscellaneous grain. Therefore, when eating miscellaneous grains, the taste is constantly changing, and various foods such as taro buns, taro jiaozi, and taro balls emerge as the times require. Taro buns are steamed buns made of taro and cassava flour. The manufacturing method is simple. Generally, a large and perishable taro is washed, cooked with skin in a pot, then peeled, mashed (rotten) in a dustpan, added with appropriate amount of sweet potato powder and refined salt, and rolled into steamed stuffed bun skin with a rolling pin. The stuffing is lean meat, mushrooms, shredded winter bamboo shoots (or dried bamboo shoots), shrimp, shredded carrots, onions and so on. Chopping, stir-frying with refined salt and monosodium glutamate, and filtering to obtain stuffing. After the taro is wrapped, put it in a steamer with gauze and steam it with high fire for 15 minutes. The aroma will be like butterflies flying around the house, making people salivate. At this time, put the pot on the plate, add sesame oil, lard and other seasonings, and a steaming, delicious taro bag will be ready. The skin is tender and hot, and the stuffing is fragrant and beautiful. In addition to steaming, taro buns can also be cooked, fried, fried and other cooking methods, with different tastes.

Yongding Xiayang Beef Balls: There is a jingle in the famous hometown of overseas Chinese, Yongding Xiayang Town (see Chuxi Tulou, see Tiger and Leopard Villa, wash the hot springs in the hometown of overseas Chinese, and taste foreign meatballs. ) There are so many delicious foods in xia yang, such as mouse pads, horsehead rings, braised dog meat and so on. The most famous is xia yang beef balls. The famous Xiayang Beef Ball ranks among Hakka cuisines with its unique flavor of elasticity, looseness and fragrance, which can be described as a must in western Fujian! Xia yang beef balls are said to have been introduced from Xingning, Meizhou, Guangdong, with a history of more than 300 years. Now there are more than 30 beef ball stalls, and the products are sold to Fuzhou, Xiamen, Shenzhen and surrounding counties and townships. The production of beef balls in xia yang is similar, but the flavor is quite different. Production process: fresh beef arm meat is selected, fascia fat is removed, evenly cut into a 1 cm thick meat layer, and the water is drained with a dry cloth; Then chop and pat repeatedly to make the meat bright red and elastic, add appropriate amount of salt and potato powder, knead repeatedly, and knead it into meatballs with your thumb; Then rinse in a cold water basin for half an hour, pick it up, put it in a casserole with bone soup and cook it with charcoal fire; When the meatballs swell, add a little pepper, monosodium glutamate, chopped green onion and other seasonings to eat.

Duck feet soaked in water: the duck feet soaked in water in the ocean are made of first-class meat, accompanied by the unique pickling secret recipe of the old shop. The finished duck feet are attractive in color and rich in fragrance, which makes people drool. Add some garlic and balsamic vinegar to the formula, which is both a flavoring agent and a natural preservative, ensuring the authentic flavor of ocean soaking feet! Take a bite, it's a little sour, a little sweet and a little spicy. The more you eat, the less you want to stop. This product has bright color, crisp taste, sweet and sour taste, golden and attractive color, pure spicy, slightly sweet and sour, and duck meat is extremely fresh, fragrant and crisp. The taste is slightly sour, slightly spicy, crisp and refreshing, and the aftertaste is sour and spicy. The dishes are crisp, fragrant and smooth, and the aroma is overflowing, which is very suitable for public leisure dinners. Have a taste. I can't forget the delicious food. Xia yang Soaked Duck's Foot has conquered all those who have eaten it with its unique and excellent taste. At present, it has become an indispensable delicacy in hotels and restaurants in some big cities, and it is a must-have for entertainment, leisure, binge drinking and home travel! Of course, the duck feet soaked in Lei Hu Town, Yongding County are also quite famous now, which has a unique flavor!

It has been included in the national famous dishes.

Taro jiaozi: Taro dumpling skin is emerald-colored, shaped like a half-moon, and the stuffing is made of pork, mushrooms, green onions and other raw materials. The skin is tender and fragrant, smooth and waxy. It is a traditional famous food that Liancheng urban and rural people must cook on holidays. It has been in Liancheng for hundreds of years. According to legend, the taro made in the early days was shaped like "rice peach" (longevity peach), commonly known as "peach", and it was also called "zhuashao" (meaning hot) because the taro dumplings were eaten hot after serving, and the fragrance dispersed after cooling.

Sibaoyang Tofu: Fujian Hakka dish Sibaoyang Tofu is a special dish of Hakka people in Liancheng County, western Fujian. It has a history of more than 300 years, which is closely related to the prosperity of Bao Si printing industry in Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is said that the workers in the printing workshop worked very hard day and night at that time, and their family specially made some dishes to clear the heart, moisten the stomach, nourish yin and nourish the yuan, and Yang tofu was one of the most famous dishes. Tofu is made from a kind of "Mayyellow" bean, which is a special product of Bao Si. It is tender, white, smooth and delicious. Fujian Hakka dish Sibaoyang Tofu is made of tofu produced by Bos.

Snowflake Fish Cake: Liancheng people like to eat fish, not only because the fish is tender and delicious, but also because "having fish" symbolizes "abundance"

Good omen. There are many kinds of freshwater fish dishes in Liancheng cuisine, especially "snowflake fish cake", which is beautifully made, novel in shape, delicious and delicious, and has become the first-class dish in the banquet. "Snowflake Fish Cake" is made of fresh and clean fish, skinned and boned, mixed with fat pork, sweet potato powder, egg white and seasoning. Mash the fish into fish paste, chop the fat pork into meat paste, put the sweet potato powder, monosodium glutamate, pepper, salt, ginger juice and onion juice into a person's plate, steam it in a pot, then take it out of the pot and cut it into rhombic pieces. After steaming, wipe the egg white.

"Snowflake Fish Cake", also known as snowflake silver flakes and melted fish, looks as silver as snow after being put on the plate, and tastes fresh, fragrant, smooth and tender. At festive banquets, people often take this famous dish as the criterion of whether the banquet is rich or not, so that there is a saying that "nothing can be done without melting the fish". At the first "Camellia Festival" in western Fujian, this dish won the first place in flavor snacks. Recently, the results of the "Top Ten Hakka Healthy Cuisine" selection activity jointly organized by Meizhou Tourism Bureau, Meizhou Daily and the Municipal Catering Association were announced. The top ten Hakka healthy foods are brine chicken in Meizhou, braised pork with plum vegetables, fermented tofu in Meizhou, Shan Zhi soup, salted noodles in Meizhou, braised dried duck with spiced sauce, stewed dog claw beans with ginger, vinegar fish, clear soup and radish balls.

The organizer held this selection activity, aiming at accelerating the construction and tourism development of Meizhou cultural tourism characteristic area, inheriting and carrying forward the profound Hakka food culture, and further exerting the brand effect of "China Hakka Food Town". The activity started in May this year and lasted for more than five months. The "Top Ten Hakka Healthy Cuisine" was finally selected by comprehensive catering enterprises, soliciting the opinions of Hakka catering experts, newspaper propaganda, online voting and expert group evaluation.

While selecting the "Top Ten Hakka Healthy Foods", we also selected the most nourishing healthy food, nourishing mutton pot, the most traditional healthy food, Hakka Niang wine chicken, the most local healthy food boiled meatballs, and the most healthy and healthy food mixed fungus pot.