The traditional dress of the She nationality men in eastern Fujian is a blue-black or blue linen shirt with a large row of buttons. A large-breasted linen shirt worn in summer is sweat-resistant, wear-resistant and breathable. Its style is double-breasted, collarless, with blue cloth embedded in the neckline and cotton "shoulders" on both shoulders. In winter, the large rows of buttoned shirts worn by She men are mostly made of cotton, so they are also called cotton shirts. The male wedding dress is a red-topped black satin official hat, similar to the official hat of the Qing Dynasty, a blue or red gown, with patterns embroidered on the front chest, a dragon pattern embroidered on the front chest side of the gown, white socks on the feet and black round shoes.
She men have two styles of clothing. One is a blue linen coat with a big skirt and no collar. The other is a wedding or ancestor worship dress, with a red top and a black satin official hat, a blue or red gown, a dragon and phoenix coat, a dragon pattern embroidered on the front of the gown, white socks and round shoes with black cloth soles. Because of living with the Han nationality for a long time, these two kinds of clothes are rarely worn, and their costumes are no different from those of the Han nationality. She women's dresses are unique, mostly made of self-woven ramie cloth, with black and blue colors, mostly black. The clothes are worn on the right, and the collar, cuffs and right lapels are inlaid with colored lace. Generally speaking, clothes with many flowers and wide sides are the clothes of young and middle-aged women. They are all wearing aprons more than a foot wide, and there is a flower belt around their waist, also called towel belt, which is four centimeters wide and more than one meter long. There are all kinds of decorative patterns on it, and some of them are embroidered with auspicious sentences such as "harmony for a hundred years" and "prosperity for five generations" There is also a blue calico with a unique style. Clothes and aprons are also embroidered with various flowers, birds, animals and geometric patterns, which are colorful and very beautiful. In addition, she women in some areas wear short black skirts and embroidered shoes with spikes; Some like to wear skirts; The skirt is a foot long, embroidered with lace around and white clouds in the middle; Others wear shorts all year round, with serrated lace on their legs, black leggings and bare feet.
The decoration of She women is the most eye-catching in hairstyle. Especially married women, they comb their hair into a long tubular bun from the back, buckle it on the back of the head like a comb-like hat, and tie it up with red wool. Some put a small bamboo tube five or six centimeters long on their heads and comb their hair around the bamboo tube into a spiral shape, which looks very chic. When combing your hair, you should not only wipe it with tea oil and water, but also wear a wig to make it look tall, fluffy and bright. When getting married, the small bamboo tube should be wrapped in red cloth, decorated with silver hairpin and silver seal, and coiled with stone beads. Some front roofs are surrounded by silver headdresses, and countless ornaments such as silver balls and pieces hang down from the lower edge of the headdress. Unmarried girls have simple hairstyles. Just comb the hair around your head and tie it with red thread. However, many She girls have also cut their hair short or braided it. She women often wear big earrings, silver bracelets and rings, and wear exquisite hats when they go out. Hat is a famous weaving handicraft of She nationality, with fine workmanship and various exquisite patterns on it. It is made of more than 200 thin bamboo filaments with a thickness of one millimeter, with beautiful shape, and it is more exquisite and beautiful with vermicelli belts, white ribbons and various beads, which has become a favorite decoration for She women. The dress features of the She nationality are mainly reflected in women's dresses, which are called "phoenix skirts": long braids tied with red ropes are tied high on the top of the head, symbolizing the phoenix head; Embroider colorful lace patterns on clothes and aprons (towels) with red, pink, apricot and gold and silver silk threads, symbolizing the neck, waist and feathers of the phoenix; A golden belt is tied behind the waist, symbolizing phoenix tail; The tinkling silver ornaments worn all over symbolize Feng Ming. Married women generally wear "rockhopper". It is made by wrapping a fine bamboo tube with a red cloth handkerchief and hanging a HongLing with a length of more than 30 cm and a width of 3 cm. There is a round silver medal on the crown and three small silver medals hanging from the forehead, named "Dragon Ridge", which means that it is the rockhopper worn by Yincui gorge.
She women's dresses mostly use self-woven ramie cloth, which is mostly blue and black. The clothes are worn on the right, and the collar, cuffs and right lapels are inlaid with colored lace.
She women's "phoenix clothes" are strictly different in age. * * * There are three kinds: "Xiaofeng skirt" is worn by underage women, with the same style and wearing method as "Taihō skirt", but relatively simple, simple, lively and lovely; "Old Phoenix clothes" are worn by elderly women, with a low bun and simple colors and patterns of clothes and belts, reflecting a solemn and calm style. According to legend, Pan Hu, the ancestor of She nationality, led his troops to fight in the north and south, and then moved to Phoenix Mountain in Guangdong to thrive. In order to take the mountain as the king, he took the legendary beautiful phoenix as the totem symbol of his own people. All his people gave birth to daughters and dressed them in phoenix costumes, which have been passed down from generation to generation and have been passed down to this day. ...
Phoenix clothes are the most distinctive in eastern Fujian, and they are usually big-breasted shirts. It has the same feature that the coat is embroidered. Especially the blouses of Fuding and Xiapu in Fujian have various embroidery patterns, flowers, birds, dragons and phoenixes on the collar, lapel, clothes bucket and even cuffs. In the hot climate, no matter what season, women will wear shorts, leggings and colored belts around their waists. The hair plate is combed on the top of the head, spiral or disc-shaped, with red hair wrapped around it.
But the clothes are slightly different from place to place.
Fu 'an's phoenix coat is sewn with a red cloth edge of 3-4 cm along the edge of the clothes bucket, and the lower end of the edge near the sleeve head is embroidered with a semi-square pattern. Her family said that this is the golden seal of ancient Wang Cifeng. There are two red embroidered ribbons longer than the skirt between the sleeves on the right side of Fuding women's dress. She women's blouses in Xiapu County are of different sizes, that is, the length of the front hem and the back hem are equal, and there is a service bucket in front of the big one and a service bucket in front of the small one, which is convenient for turning over. They wear the front when they are guests and the back at home every day. At the same time, clothes are divided into "one red skirt", "two red skirts" and "three red skirts" according to the number of embroidered red flowers.
The Legend of Phoenix Clothing
Pan Hu, the ancestor of the She nationality, has made great contributions because of his commonness. Gao Xin married his daughter Yincui gorge to him. When they got married, the queen crowned her daughter with a phoenix crown and a phoenix skirt inlaid with precious stones, wishing her luck like a phoenix. After having children, Yincui gorge also dressed her daughter as a phoenix. When her daughter got married, Phoenix came from Phoenix Mountain in Guangdong and gave a phoenix dress as a wedding dress. From then on, her daughter will wear Phoenix clothes to show good luck. In some places, the bride is directly called "Phoenix". Because the bride has the lofty status of "yincui gorge", she doesn't kneel down when she worships the ancestral tablet at the groom's house. Before liberation, she women wrapped their heads in cotton cloth in winter and summer, with bamboo crowns in the middle and stone beads in the middle. Unmarried people are not. Its headdress is knotted, with bamboo as the crown, naked and covered with stains; Decorated with beads, there are countless beads, all of which are five-color Chili beads. Adult women's hair is dressed as a phoenix comb, and the hair is braided at the back of the head and tied into a bun. The hair and feet are wrapped in black gauze, and the head is covered with a bamboo tube wrapped in silver foil (about 1 inch in diameter and 3 inches in length, made of silver by rich people), wrapped in red cloth and with a silver hairpin. Four strings of long porcelain beads and 1 string of red and black porcelain beads are worn on crepe. This kind of headdress is usually called "rockhopper", and the Han people call it "Fu". It is said that it was given by Emperor Gao Xin. This kind of primitive decoration, which has the significance of commemorating ancestors, is usually worn when getting married, and will also be worn during holidays or as a guest in the future. Usually work is wrapped in a blue cloth square towel or towel. Nowadays, people rarely wear "crested phoenix", and some She villages only wear it when receiving visiting guests or major festivals.
Accessories of the "sword": clip bar, head face, Qixi, Qixi brand, Qixi bear, bone earning, clip, square card, earrings, grab head, ancient coins, toothpicks, ear-digging spoon, banana leaf, silver hairpin, silver chain, beads, cloth, cotton thread, etc.
Her rockhopper needs 4 taels of silver, including:
Silver hairpin: forged with 1 silver dollar, two fingers wide and 10 cm long. Shaped like a fishbone, embossed with patterns, used to tighten the hair of the cross bolt.
Headdress: An ornament embed in that hairline. Wedding headdresses, in groups of three, decorated with figures and animal patterns, are exquisitely made.
Earring tag: used in conjunction with Panlong bun, earrings are usually made into a flip question mark shape; Earmark, there is a curved gentleman near the ear with a silver medal on it.
The crown shape of She nationality is slightly different, which can be roughly divided into Fuan, Luoyuan, Shunchang, Jingning and Lishui. Some styles in Fujian are tied into "Old Phoenix" and "Little Phoenix" according to the age of She women, and the tassels of "Toushan" in Jingning, Zhejiang and Lishui are also different. The simple one is red silk hanging, while the exquisite "Toushan" is made of silver pieces and beads, indicating many meanings. For example, the top silver piece is a bird, symbolizing the phoenix, and it is decorated with "Pisces" as the wedding object (there is a pattern of "double happiness" among the people), or the prismatic silver piece decorated with "two colors" is called "Four Seas", indicating that the marriage object is very affectionate and will always be together like a duck to water, so the old custom of unmarried mothers does not wear rockhopper. "Pisces" is decorated with "ancient money", like silver coins and beads. On the whole, national unity and family harmony are the beginning of the prosperity of dairy talents, which complement each other and have profound implications.