1996 1 0.4, on the occasion of the 800th anniversary of the founding of Jian 'ou City, Fujian Province/kloc-0, Mr. Lin Wusan, former deputy director of Tokyo Museum of Japan, visited the ancestral home of Japanese tea lanterns and tea ceremonies in 1995/0/month, and donated money to build Jian 'ou.
In recent years, experts and scholars who have visited and revealed the peerless mystery of the teahouse successively include: medicinal tea consultant of World Medical Association, consultant of China Tea People's Association, professor Zhang Tianfu, a leading tea expert in China, professor of Nanjing Agricultural University, curator of China Tea Museum, director Luo of China Tea Quality Inspection Center, and Mr. Gan of Fujian Provincial Museum.
It can be said that the tea affair in Jian 'ou has a long history. In the long history of tea, it has left an amazing light. To sum up, there are the following "six musts": First, Jian Xi's official tea ranks first in the world; Second, Jian' an Doucha is the best in the world; The third is to create a unique tea set in the world; Fourth, Fengshan Tea God ranks first in the world; Fifth, Jian 'ou tea industry ranks first in the world; Sixth, Beiyuan tea culture is unparalleled in the world. According to historical research, tea planting in Jian 'ou can be traced back to the end of the Warring States Period and the early Qin and Han Dynasties from 202 BC to 300 BC. By the middle of the Tang Dynasty, Jian 'ou was rich in tea. Lu Yu (729-780) mentioned the production of tea in Jianzhou in the book Eight Fruits of Tea Classics, praising "it is always available and tastes excellent". In 938, in the year of Qi Long Yuan in Fujian, Zhang Tinghui, a citizen, dedicated all the tea mountains in Fiona Fang-Phoenix Mountain-to the king of Fujian and listed them as royal tea gardens. Because the park is located in northern Fujian, it is called "Beiyuan". In the second year of the Northern Song Dynasty (977), the imperial court sent an important official, Cao Min, to supervise Beiyuan Longfeng Tea, which was constantly upgraded, noble in quality and exquisite in appearance. Under the impetus of imperial products, the fried tea kept improving and became famous all over the world for a while.
In the Song Dynasty, Zhou Jiang praised: "Beiyuan is the best tea in the world." Lu You also wrote a poem praising: "Jiangxi official tea is the best in the world". Ouyang Xiu once wrote in the Record of Returning to the Field: "Qing Li Cai (that is, Cai Xiang) was the transshipment ambassador of Fujian Road, and only a small piece of dragon tea was selected at the entrance. Its products are very good, which is called a small group. Every twenty cakes weigh a catty and are worth two taels of gold, but there is gold and no tea. " Beiyuan Longfeng group tea is divided into five wonderful grades and seven coarse colors, among which the five wonderful grades include fifteen names such as Belon Gong Xin, Belon Shixin and Longtuan Shengxue, thirteen names such as Wushuang Changsheng Bud and six names such as Taiping Jiarui.
Jiangxi official tea is famous in the world because it has the following four advantages:
Advantages 1: Gong Yu is timely and ahead. Mining before the sting, completed within ten days, and arrived in Beijing in mid-spring. It has also formed a unique custom of calling mountains: "mobilize thousands of people, clamor for the side of the mountain, and achieve Yang." Ouyang Xiu's poem "Taste New Tea Noodles" says: "Jian 'an is 3,500 Li, and the capital tastes new tea in March. "
Advantage 2: Excellent technology and strict procedures. The rules of collecting and processing are extremely particular. It can be said that the selection must be refined, the cooking must be clean, the steaming must be fragrant, and the fire must be good. In order to ensure the quality, seven strict operating procedures have been formulated: 1. Picking tea; 2. Steaming tea; 4. Pressing tea; 5. Researching tea; 6. Making tea; 7. Yellow tea.
Advantages 3: Exquisite decoration and gorgeous appearance. The packaging ring of fine-colored five-grade group tea is made of leaves, with yellow buckets in it, incense in the flower box, silver and erbium in the flat, and yellow curtains inside and outside the flower box, which is a rare blow. The packaging ring of coarse color seven-grade group tea is made of bamboo leaves, tied with red wisps, wrapped with red crepe and sealed with silk. The careful Chronicle of Gan Chun of the Yuan Dynasty praised its gorgeous packaging: "It is a miracle to pass on good things."
Advantage 4: beautiful appearance, excellent products emerge one after another. Shapes are square, round, reed, flower leaf and so on. In my impression, there are dragons, dragons and phoenixes, alternating yin and yang, with pictures and texts. The main products are Xiaolong Tuan, Miyun Long, Ruiyun Xianglong, White Tea and Dragon Tuan Shengxue. At that time, people lamented: "The beauty of tea is better than snow, and the cost per catty is 40,000. The essence of selection, the work of production, the victory of products and the wonderful cooking are unparalleled. " There is a poem that says: the emperor drinks a cup of tea and the people have three years' food. A large number of historical data show that in the late Tang Dynasty, there was a "tea-fighting" activity in the tea town of Jian 'ou, which was also called "tea-fighting" by the locals. Doucha originated in Jianzhou, Fujian. During the Northern Song Dynasty, due to the rise of the "Beiyuan" Royal Tea Garden in China and the further promotion of royal products, the atmosphere of fighting tea became more and more popular. Every time new tea is made, tea farmers will take the best new tea to public places, compare it with soup flowers, and judge the quality and skills of tea, thus evolving into a relatively fixed production custom. This custom of fighting tea was advocated by Ding Weisong, Cai Xiang and other famous artists, and spread to the upper class, and quickly developed into a grand gathering to appreciate tea products and brew tea art; It has been deliberately rendered and refined by a large number of literati, and then enriched into a fresh and elegant tea ceremony art.
According to Cai Xiang's Tea Record and Song Huizong Evonne's Daguan Tea Theory, Jian 'an "Tea Fight" generally has the following procedures: 1. Research tea and cooperate with others. That is, the first step is to grind the tea cake into powder and put it in a slightly hot teacup. The second is paste mixing and injection. That is, the second step, holding the pot and injecting appropriate amount of boiling water to make the tea powder into a thick paste, and then pay attention to the color of the soup in turn, with innocence as the most expensive and yellow and white as the bottom. The third is to make soup. In other words, the third step is to make soup flowers appear on the tea surface, and then according to the order in which water marks appear on the tea surface, the former is inferior and the latter is superior. The fourth is to sip. That is, the fourth step, after the victory or defeat has just been decided, slowly sip, evaluate the gains and losses, and sing poetry and compose poems, and enjoy it.
The Jian 'an Tea War initiated by Ding Wei, Cai Xiang and other famous artists spread to the upper class and gradually evolved into a fresh and elegant tea ceremony art of tasting tea and making tea.
Jian 'an's "tea fighting" activity is recognized as an important symbol of the formation of tea culture in China. The essence of tea culture is tea ceremony, and the origin of tea ceremony comes from "fighting tea" in Jian 'an. Japan's tea ceremony art, centered on the four and seven principles of harmony, purity, respect and silence, originated from the tea war in Jian 'an. Because the tea in the Song Dynasty was still white, there was a "built lamp" fired by the "built kiln" that year-the black glazed porcelain tea lamp treasure came out.
The "kiln building" was burned in the late Tang Dynasty. It flourished in Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. Decline in the middle and late Yuan Dynasty; Burning was basically abolished in the Ming Dynasty. According to relevant documents, there were 99 "Dragon Kilns" at that time, and the porcelain produced by them was listed as one of the eight famous porcelains in China, which was called "Jianzhan". After the publication of "Building a Station", it became famous at home and abroad. In particular, the Japanese cherish it and give it a high evaluation, listing it as a national treasure cultural relic.
The "building lamp" fired by "building kiln"-black glaze "rabbit's milli lamp" has its own unique modeling style and technological characteristics. One is that the utensils are extremely thick except for the thin edge of the mouth, especially from the abdomen to the circumference of the sole of the foot, and some utensils are as thick as one centimeter. Secondly, there are many objects with words on the bottom, and the words "for imperial use" and "for entering the lamp" are left, indicating that they are royal products specially burned for the court. Third, all the utensils are dark black, and some have some brown, soy sauce or other colors. Because the brown or rust-colored texture in the glaze is side by side, it looks like rabbit hair, which is called rabbit hair spot, and its lamp is named "rabbit hair lamp" The firing of this special flower glaze shows that China's porcelain technology has reached a quite mature stage in the Song Dynasty. Fourth, vessels have been generally made by wheels, and the shapes of the fired vessels are very regular. All utensils are cooked in a bowl, using a container. No overlapping combustion was found. Fifth, the vessels are fired in the "Dragon Kiln", ranging in length from tens of meters to more than 100 meters. The maximum firing capacity of a kiln can reach more than100000 pieces.
The documents of past dynasties have given high evaluation to "building kiln" and "building lamp", and at the same time given it a high status. Cai Xiang said in the Book of Tea: "The color of tea is white, and it should be black. Jian' an is made of black, the lines are like rabbit hair, and the blank is slightly thicker ... It is difficult to cool after a long time of heat, and it is the most important to use. Those who go out from other places, whether thin or purple, are not as good as them. " Song Huizong and Evonne said in "On Daguan Tea": "The color of the lamp is cyan and black, and jade is the best. "In Tao Shuo, Zhu Yan said:" Tea in Song Dynasty is still a bowl-skimming, with Millie lamp of Jian 'an Rabbit as the top grade. "
It can be seen that the "Jianzhan" made by Jian 'an "Kiln Building" is well-known at home and abroad, and is regarded as a treasure in porcelain by the world, thus becoming one of the two treasures of Jianzhou tea in the Song Dynasty. It is world-famous along with the "Beiyuan" Longfeng tea group and complements each other in the starry sky of the tea art kingdom. Phoenix Mountain is located in Houbei Village, Dongfeng Gorge Town, about 0/6 km east of Jian 'ou City. The terrain is high in the north and low in the south, wide in the back and narrow in the front, and the southern end goes straight to Dongxi, just like a phoenix kneeling to drink water. There is also Jifengyan, which stands abruptly on the Linxi neck at the southern foot of Fenghuang Mountain. Four or five petals of rock are narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, like a lifelike rockhopper.
Cai Xiang said in the book "Tea Story": "(Beiyuan Phoenix Tea Group) Only the products produced by Phoenix Mountain are delicious." In the Song Dynasty, Ding Wei said in the book "Jian 'an Tea": "Fengshan is not a hundred feet high and has no dangerous peaks. It is surrounded by Fu Gang and has a gentle momentum, which is suitable for the development of Jiaji Huiling." Song Zian said in Dongxi Tea Tasting Record: "Its yang is full of silver and copper, its yin is pregnant with lead and iron, and its soil is red, only tea."
Fengshan Tea God is enshrined in Houbei Village, Dongfeng, Xia Dong Dong Dong Er Li, Jian 'ou. It is said that local tea farmers have made sacrifices in Teli Temple to commemorate the pioneering contribution of Zhang Tinghui, the originator of Beiyuan Baked Tea in Song Dynasty. Fengshan Tea Temple was originally named Gong Li Temple, and it is also called Zhangsangong Temple among the people. Now it is called Fengyi Temple or Tea Temple.
Zhang Tinghui, the tea god, was named Zhong Guang, the ambassador of Fujian Cabinet. During the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, he was originally a tea-baking landlord in Jiyuan, Jian 'an County, Fujian Province. At that time, Zhang Tinghui not only reclaimed and owned the tea mountain in the 30-mile square garden of Phoenix Mountain; In addition, it has also made important contributions to the seed collection, picking, classification, steaming and tea making of tea, especially in the evolution from steaming green tea to pasting tea.
At the beginning of the Northern Song Dynasty, after the death of Zhang Tinghui, people in the village offered tea tribute to Nianxiu Temple, praying for more examinations. Shaoxing Middle School (1131-kloc-0/62) In the Song Dynasty, the court named him Hou Meiying, who made outstanding achievements, kept things quiet and helped others. Mrs. Ji's wife
In the history of Chinese tea, tea people are gods after their death, and Zhang Tinghui may be the only one. It can be said that the name of Zhang Tinghui, Fengshan tea god, left a unique and beautiful scenery in the history of world tea. Jian 'ou tea industry has a long history. By the twentieth year of Tang Zhenyuan (804), the secretariat of Jianzhou was famous for its research on cream tea. "The Spring and Autumn Annals of the Ten Kingdoms of Tang Dynasty" said: "In the fourth year (946), Baoda was ordered to make milk tea in Jianzhou. Its products are good at researching milk tea and are famous all over the world."
In Song Dynasty, Jian 'ou tea industry reached its peak. First, in Ding Wei in the Song Dynasty, there were phoenixes and dragons. "Painting Collection" said: The tribute is no more than forty cakes, and it is specially intended to be presented. Although it is close to the minister's house, I have never heard of it. Then Cai Xiang, and created a small dragon and phoenix group. "Return to the Field" said: Its products are absolutely fine and can be called a niche. Every twenty cakes weigh a catty and are worth two taels of gold.
In the production process of fried tea, the original production method of congou tea was mainly changed, and the semi-fermentation process was adopted. At the same time, the steamed green tea was changed into fried green tea, and the green tea was inactivated, kneaded, blended and refined.
According to Shu Min, there were 32 official cake shops and 14 small cake shops, 36 inner gardens and 38 outer gardens in Beiyuan at that time. The inner garden is for royal drinking, and the outer garden is for the nearest ministers. According to relevant historical documents, Jian 'ou in Song Dynasty began to pay attention to the research on the relationship between soil quality and tea products, and concluded that "(Phoenix Mountain) is rich in silver and copper, thick in lead and iron, and only tea is planted", "Knowing that tea is the most spiritual among plants and trees, it is not planted between acres" and "it is still like orange crossing the Huaihe River as a bitter orange" (""). "Tea should be planted in high mountains and sunny places, and those with pebbles in black soil should be planted, with clear taste and strong fragrance" (Jian 'ou County Records).
Jian 'ou Beiyuan Longfeng Tea Group lasted for 465,438+04 years, from the second year of Taiping Xingguo in the early Song Dynasty (977), when the imperial court sent Cao Min as an important official, to the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (8965,438+0). During the light years of Qing Dynasty, fried tea rose again. By the middle of Guangxu, the tea production in Jian 'ou had "surpassed that in Song Dynasty". In the second year of Xuantong (10 10), Jin Pu, Quanpu and Tongfangxing Teahouses in Jian 'ou won the gold medal at the first persuasion meeting in Nanyang. In the second year of the Republic of China (19 13), the oolong tea presented by Zhan Jinpu won the first prize again, and the oolong tea and narcissus presented by Yang Ruipu and Li Quanfeng won the second prize. The quality of fried tea has reached its peak again, and the output is also the first in the province. The achievement status of Jian 'ou tea industry continued to modern times.
It took 1000 years to build tea from the Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty. On the basis of summing up the traditional experience, tea farmers improved tea varieties, improved cultivation techniques, improved production techniques and updated varieties and colors, thus enriching the historical connotation of tea construction and writing a glorious page for the history of world tea.
What's more worth mentioning is that in 2006, Beiyuan Yubei Site in front of Jian 'ou Dongfeng Bakery was announced as the sixth batch of national key cultural relics protection units, which once again confirmed the supremacy of Jian 'ou tea industry in Chinese tea history. In many important events of Jian 'ou traditional tea culture, there are also a large number of poems praising Jian 'ou tea, Jian 'an lantern and Jian 'an doucha, which are famous all over the world, and can be called a must in China's literary history. It is understood that there are more than 30 famous writers who have created poems about building tea, building lanterns and fighting tea in Jian 'an, such as Song Qi, Lin Bu, Song, Cai Xiang, Fan Zhongyan, Mei, Li, Shen Kuo, Wang Anshi, Su Shi, Su Zhe, Qin Guan, Huang Tingjian, Lu You, Li Qingzhao, Once upon a time, Chao, Zhou Bida, Yang Wanli and Zhu. Among them, Lu You's Jian 'an Snow, Su Shi's Peach Blossom Tea and Fan Zhongyan's Tea Fighting Song all bring people from the delicious taste of "Beiyuan" dragon and phoenix group tea into a dreamlike realm. Please see:
Jian' an science
Song luyou
Jian Xi official tea is absolutely chinese odyssey, and all scents need light snow.
Snow flies without worrying about a piece of tea, let alone blocking the air like a dancing seagull.
In the spring breeze, I didn't waste coming to Wan Li.
It has been difficult to make bear's paw fish since ancient times.
Su Shi's water-blended peach blossom tea
It rained several times and it thundered the night before.
Flag gun battle, Jian Xi spring scenery first.
Take a tongue, pound it to expose smoke, and make a pile of ziyun.
Gently move the gold mill and fly the green dust.
The old dragon regiment is really chicken bone marrow. If you put it in the rabbit's mg in the future, you will feel your tongue back in an instant.
Arouse Qingzhou, fight back the sandman million, and never dream of the balcony.
There is a breeze under my arm and I want to go to Penglai.
The Song of Fan Zhongyan and Sharla Cheung Fighting Tea (Excerpt)
Beiyuan will offer the son of heaven, and the heroes in the forest will compete for beauty first.
The first mountain outside the cloud is copper, and jasper rises.
Fighting tea tastes weak, fighting tea tastes weak.
In the meantime, the first product can be deceived, and ten eyes can deceive thousands of fingers.
If you win, you can't climb up; if you lose, you lose face.
It is a great honor to be the stone of heaven, and it is also a great achievement in theory.
I can clear everyone's turbidity, and I can wake up drunk for thousands of days.
Qu Yuan tried to recruit souls, but Liu Ling got the limelight.
Taste new tea and become a sacred jade.
Song Ouyang xiu
Jian 'an is 3,500 Li, and the capital tastes new tea in March.
Spring is poor and wax moves, but thunder does not drive away dragons and snakes.
Drums resounded through the valley at night, and thousands of people shouted for help.
Ten thousand trees can't sleep, only this tree germinates first.
According to statistics, there are about 20 kinds of monographs on tea research in Song Dynasty, among which 13 or 4 kinds are devoted to tea construction. Mainly include: Cai Xiang's Tea Record, Song Dynasty's Jian 'an Tea Record, Zhao's Beiyuan Bielu, Jian 'an Tea Record and Xuanhe Beiyuan Gongcha Record. In addition, there are some monographs focusing on tea structure or tea structure, such as Gu's Tea Spectrum and Daguan Tea Theory.
Historically, in Jian 'ou City, Fujian Province, tea products ("Beiyuan" Longfengtuan tribute tea), tea sets ("Jian 'an" kiln fired "Jianzhan"), tea art (Jian 'an "tea fighting" custom), tea god (Fengshan tea god Zhang Tinghui), tea industry (originally named Cai Pu) and many famous tea poems and tea research books were all gathered in one furnace. The name of Jiancha was first seen in the Tea Classic written by Lu Yu, Cha Sheng in the Tang Dynasty, including "Born in Fuzhou, Jianzhou ..."; It is often obtained and tastes excellent. "The language. Jianzhou is located in northern Fujian, Jian 'an County at the end of Han Dynasty. It was the state capital in Tang and Song Dynasties, and governed Jian 'an, Ou Ning, Chong 'an, Jianyang, Pucheng, Songxi, Zhenghe and seven counties. Because the tea produced in Jianzhou was not famous at that time, it was rarely mentioned by the Tang people. Lu also did not mention "Jian 'an products". In the Song Dynasty, building tea became a fashion, which was common in poetry. Cai Xiang's Tea Record called it "the product of Jian 'an"; Evonne's "Daguan Tea Theory" is called "Jian Xi Tribute". The earliest direct name of "picking tea" may be Li's poem "Picking tea makes you a bachelor". It can be seen that tea is actually named after the place of origin, generally referring to the tea produced in Jianzhou and Jian' an areas. Because Jianxi River passes through Jianzhou, it also refers to the tea produced in Jianxi area.
Nevertheless, in different historical periods, the specific meaning of building tea is still different. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, the production center of fried tea was located in Fenghuang Mountain in the eastern suburb of Jianzhou Prefecture (now Jian 'ou City). At that time, tea was a kind of steamed green tea, pressed into small tea cakes. Exquisite workmanship, little output, mainly tribute to the emperor, who distributed it to court ministers. Because the shape of this small tea cake is often printed with dragon and phoenix group cases, it is called "dragon and phoenix group tea". So the tea built in that period was mainly this kind of tea. Due to the Five Dynasties in Fujian, Fenghuangshan Tea Garden became a royal tea garden, located in the northern part of Fujian, called "Beiyuan", and the tea produced was named "Beiyuan Gongcha". Although the name is different, it actually refers to "Longfeng Tea".
In the Yuan Dynasty, because the production of Longfeng group tea was time-consuming and laborious, the brewing was extremely cumbersome and was not liked by the rulers of the Yuan Dynasty from the north. In addition, due to years of war, the tea garden in Fenghuang Mountain began to decline, and the tea produced in Wuyishan, 200 miles away, began to be valued by people, so the rulers of the Yuan Dynasty moved the royal tea garden to Wuyishan. Although the center of gravity has changed, the tea produced is still tightly steamed green tea, which is still called "Longfeng Group Tea". Wuyishan is located in Chong 'an County, upstream of Jianxi River, and still belongs to Jianzhou. Therefore, although it was called "Wuyi tea" at that time, most people still regarded Wuyi tea as building tea.
This situation did not change much until the early Ming dynasty. After the establishment of the Ming dynasty, in view of the lessons of the previous dynasty, some policies were adopted to reduce the taxes of the people. One of the most important measures is to abolish the Wuyishan Imperial Tea Garden and stop producing the time-consuming and labor-intensive "Longfeng Group Tea". Once the royal family no longer supports it, Longfeng Group Tea will have no future. Since then, all tea gardens around Jiangxi, including Wuyishan, have changed to produce loose tea. At first, I studied the "Luo Song" method to make green tea in Huangshan, Anhui. However, due to the special geographical environment of Wuyishan, the scattered green tea produced has no advantage. In order to find a way out, Wuyishan tea farmers began to produce semi-fermented oolong tea in the late Ming Dynasty and became famous in one fell swoop. "Wuyi Tea" became a famous tea. This situation has greatly stimulated the tea industry in the whole Jiangxi Valley. The almost deserted Fenghuangshan tea garden also began to grow and produce oolong tea. By the middle and late Qing Dynasty, oolong tea produced in Jian 'ou County, where Phoenix Mountain is located, won many awards at Nanyang Persuasion Association and Panama Expo, which can be compared with Wuyi tea in quantity and quality. As a result, the name of fried tea has regained its luster. But the construction of tea at this time has many different contents from the construction of tea in history.