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Characteristics of the development of Western clothing from the Renaissance to the 1860s

The elegant soul of Rococo style in the 18th century

Experiencing the baptism of Baroque style in the 17th century, the clothing style of the 18th century changed from rough and tough to slender and graceful. This revolutionary change is called "Rococofashion". Complex decoration, luxurious fabrics, and fine tailoring are the obvious characteristics of the Rococo style. To sum it up in more concise words, it is "elegance."

Women were popular with "Robe", a wide skirt with gorgeous embroidery. Diamonds were not popular at that time, and fashionable women wore a decorative ring made of lace around their necks to set off the breasts. full. Men's clothes are becoming more and more fitted, with white shirts, vests, silk breeches, chest decorations, and scarves. This outfit is a typical men's outfit.

In the 18th century, men’s clothes were elegant in color, emphasizing chest decoration, and the sleeve designs were exaggerated.

Embroidery is a major attraction. Gold, silver and other colorful silk thread embroideries make the colors of the clothes look extremely brilliant.

Men's shoes today would be considered fashionable ladies' shoes. But in 18th-century Europe, it belonged to men. Brocade fabric, small sequin decoration, embroidery, square toe, luxurious and fashionable.

Brass, even those worn under women, have exquisite embroidery.

In the 19th century, romantic men became feminine.

No matter how arrogant the fashion is, it is actually just an accessory of the times. After experiencing the French Revolution, people suddenly lost the elegant and relaxed mentality of the 18th century. They were full of utopianism, and clothing vividly expressed this mentality. It is difficult to sum up the clothing style of the 19th century in one sentence. It has both the simplicity and simplicity of the revolutionary period and the poetry and elegance of romanticism.

In any case, the clothing of the Romantic period was a return to neoclassicism after the French Revolution, and it is of great significance in the history of clothing. During that period, the aesthetic concept of "femininity" permeated the entire European continent. Women seemed to have become the first gender. They pretended to be delicate, and their clothing styles were full of fantasy. Men were also attracted by women's delicacy, and they slimmed down their waists. Even corsets were used.

There were two noteworthy changes in the fashion industry in the 19th century: industrial progress and the emergence of more advanced tailoring technology, which made the fabrics and styles of clothing more diverse; due to the emergence of color printing, fashion Samples began to be published and it was the "originator" of modern fashion magazines. Its emergence has made the era of fashion originally guided by palace ladies gone forever. Fashion samples and actresses in stage plays have become the new fashion spokespersons.

In the 19th century, men's clothing became more feminine, with vests, jackets and trousers being the most common combination. To accentuate their figure, men began to wear corsets.

The main accessories for men include bow ties, bucket hats, and civilized sticks.

The popular fabrics for women's clothing include thin cotton, densely textured white linen, tulle, striped wool fabric and organza, which give people a light and elegant feeling. Emphasizing the thin waist and exaggerated skirt, bustles made of horsehair appeared for the first time. In order to show off the slender waist, the shoulder design is constantly expanding, the cuffs are also extremely exaggerated, and metal wires are even used as pads at the base of the sleeves.

Clothing from the 18th century to the 20th century

Clothing at the end of the 19th century began to use special fabrics, and the designs were trendy and bold, from which we can get a glimpse of the silhouette of modern clothing.

▲Gloves 1830. Gloves are an indispensable accessory for women. Black lace and metal beads match, full of fragrant style.

At the same time, women's buns became higher and higher, fixed with long pins and decorated with feathers, ribbons, etc. The hat echoes the hairstyle, and the wide-brimmed tall hat is decorated with lace and artificial flowers.

▲In order to emphasize the so-called education, ladies at that time always carried pills with them and covered their faces with handkerchiefs, looking coy. But they were also keen on sports, riding horses in the morning and playing tennis or golf in the afternoon. This was the tennis wear and golf wear at that time.

▲In the 1830s, it became popular for women to ride horses like men, and riding clothing began to appear. Women wear tight breeches and boots made of muslin under a long, spacious skirt, a top hat and deerskin gloves.

The diversification of fashion in the 20th century

The war changed the original social value system and broke the romantic trend of the 19th century. With the rise of the middle class and their new life philosophy, fashion designers began to try to look at design from an artistic perspective. At the beginning of the 20th century, designers carried out the "tailoring revolution". Madame Vionnet's famous slash tailoring, and Madame Gres' perfect use of pleating and silk processing techniques are still the source of creativity of fashion masters. We are familiar with Issey Miyake, Versace, etc., have all used these techniques for reference.

Women in the 20th century pursued independence, completely abandoned corsets, and preferred clothing with simple styles and comprehensive functions. In the mid-to-late 20th century, women emphasized individuality. In addition to demanding styles with extraordinary taste, they also required it to be the only style. In this "century of information explosion", functionalism, minimalism, classicism, and fashion are reincarnated one by one with the passage of time.

The French are proud. In this century, Paris has become the world's fashion manufacturing center with its exquisite craftsmanship and design. The haute couture exhibition held twice a year attracts countless beauty lovers. At the same time, fashion media has developed rapidly, and fashion magazines have become real trend setters.

Blue silk satin evening dress from 1950. Extremely soft fabric, known as "women's skin". In the 20th century, people paid more and more attention to fabrics. There is a famous saying: second only to the caress of a lover, good fabrics are the best.

When underwear made of lace, lace, and silk fabrics came out, it caused a sensation. Some call it the "underwear revolution."

At the end of the 20th century, women's clothing became more masculine. (Text/FAY)

The three stages of the development of clothing during the Renaissance and the characteristics of each stage:

Features of the Italian period: the underwear is partially exposed from the gap in the outer garment, and is in contact with the surface The contrast of the rich brocade fabric further accentuates the beauty of the fabric.

Men's Pulboan: three significant features of craftsmanship and clothing structure: first, quilting, using the backstitch method; second, front opening; third, changing the cutting method of medieval robes.

Split women's robe: The outer shape looks like the top and bottom are connected, with seams at the waist.

Features of the German style period: incision clothing, using fur as a decoration method for collars or clothing edges

Incision clothing is also called mercenary infantry style, the original meaning is to use knives, swords, etc. Hacking, stabbing, cutting, etc. can be extended to cuts, cracks, slits, or decorations on clothes.

Characteristics of the Spanish period: the pursuit of extreme strange shapes and exaggerated expressions, and superb sewing technology.

The popularity of wrinkled collars: closed wheel-shaped, open stand-up collar, shawl style. Corsets: Baleen corset, Buna corset. Skirt: bell-shaped hoop skirt, ring-shaped hoop skirt

Sleeves can be divided into puff sleeves, leg-of-mutton sleeves and shrew sleeves according to different filler shapes.