The fragrance of flowers on the shore dyes the edges of dancing clothes. Nameless weeds follow the road all the way to the south of the Yangtze River.
——Inscription
[Suzhou]
Meeting Suzhou was an accident.
This accident came in an extremely beautiful way. While I was still on my way to Nanxun, Suzhou was not even on the edge of my thoughts.
Suzhou was so many years ago that my memory has become blurry. Even if I occasionally glance at the scenery in my mind, I don’t know where the small bridges and flowing water were copied from. There is no trace of freshness at all. complexion.
When the word Suzhou is added to the itinerary, all fatigue disappears instantly, and with full energy, I run towards the Jiangnan in my dreams.
Suzhou, unlike Nanxun and Wuzhen, can still walk leisurely through those ancient stone bridge streets even in a short time.
I can only come and go in a hurry, picking out one or two places at random among the dazzling flowers and looking at them. This is something that my leisurely temperament cannot bear, but in the tight schedule had to give in.
I have always felt that Suzhou people are actually very generous. Wu Nong’s soft words and delicate face reveal a broad mind. If you open some classics about Suzhou at random, you will find some impressive and magnificent chapters in the elegant and leisurely glimpses. These are Suzhou people who understand life and understand righteousness. Therefore, Suzhou has always been beautiful, with a beautiful face and a beautiful soul.
When the Suzhou outside the car window flew past my eyes like a stroke, I couldn't help but like it, and I couldn't help but feel excited to touch it. Suzhou is small, delicate, not rough at all, and has a smooth and silky texture. The melody is as gentle as the flow of springs in April, and the foundation is as charming as the blooming of spring flowers in February.
There are countless scenery in your memory. When they are vivid and bright in front of you, they are the beauty that you cannot refuse and the gentleness that you cannot resist.
The story of Suzhou will make you confused, like falling into the clouds and not knowing where to end. Just now I was thinking about Tang Bohu's suave "Autumn Fragrance", but in an instant I was attracted by Wen Zhengming's "Wisteria Flower Stand on Spring and Autumn". These talents and beauties all pop into your mind before you have time to think about them, and they all interpret the vast moonlight of the old days.
This is not Venice, this is Suzhou. Who calls Suzhou the "Venice of the East"? It's like a frog in a well, completely ruining Suzhou's thousands of years of civilization in these superficial words.
Suzhou is ancient, but it is definitely evergreen. She sticks to the traditional elegance and elegance, but absorbs fresh elements and mixes them into the ancient history, so Suzhou can grow from generation to generation. It has become a paradise in the dreams of literati.
Suzhou is not a frozen landscape. It flows like a boat traveling through the city. In its light glide, it is painted into a meaningful picture in the eyes, leaving a line of broken shadows of clear waves, and the colorful wings become the wings of poetry. , at the moment when the words are beating out from the heart, they are written into a gorgeous chapter.
Beijing flaunts its grandeur and profundity all the time, but when looking back at its history, it cannot avoid the traces carved on the pillar of shame that make people hang their heads one after another. There are many royal palaces in Beijing, and all of them are dreaming of spring dreams in the south of the Yangtze River. They copy the gardens of the south of the Yangtze River in an attempt to enjoy the beauty of spring flowers and autumn moon in the long sandy capital.
However, the capital is full of dignitaries, the stench of rich dog meat is everywhere, the delicate and vivid water color of the south of the Yangtze River is paved with layers of domineering power, the staleness of money, and all the beautiful lyrics and songs are there. There seems to be no spiritual energy here. No matter how beautiful the building is, without those legendary stories that stir people's hearts and souls, and those lingering love myths, they are all cold furnishings without much warmth and warmth.
Suzhou is full of ink and wash. There are poems and words everywhere here. These poems come from the waters that meander away, and from the beautiful flowers that come gracefully. Therefore, there is the Peach Blossom Fairy in Peach Blossom Temple and Tang Bohu who picks peach blossoms in exchange for wine money. This unrestrained and romantic style is the soul of Suzhou.
I love Suzhou so much, I love the moist and warm air in her air, I love the lingering charm of her gardens, I love the timidity under Wu Nong’s soft words, I love those tender red and pink flowers Feixia above.
If you need to describe it in detail, no amount of pen and ink will be enough, no matter how many colors will be too light.
So, just like this, I kept Suzhou in my heart, and in my dream of longing for Jiangnan, I couldn't return.
[Humble Administrator’s Garden]
When you come to Suzhou, it would be unreasonable not to go to the Humble Administrator’s Garden.
The hotel we stayed in was only a few steps away from the Humble Administrator's Garden, and the only thing between us was the most famous villa in Suzhou - the Humble Administrator's East Garden.
There are densely packed houses in the Humble Administrator’s East Garden. Rich people spend a lot of money to buy themselves villas adjacent to the Humble Administrator’s Garden. I’m afraid they don’t just want to soak up the afterglow of classical culture. .
The weather in the south of the Yangtze River is cloudy and sunny, and when things go well, it will rain. It's like some vague emotions, I don't know when they will come, and I don't know when they will go.
In fact, without a few rains, the gardens in Jiangnan would be as tasteless as Sichuan cuisine without spicy pepper. This rain is so pleasant, at least in the humid air, these crystal clear elves are rushing to leap into your arms, which makes you very happy.
This time is not a good season for garden viewing. Many of the colorful flowers have fallen away, and there are no red lotus flowers in the garden reflecting the sun, let alone dry lotus leaves listening to the sound of rain. None of these feelings can be found, which always makes people feel a little bit disappointed.
Along the winding path, you can experience the secluded beauty, which is more appropriate only in the rain. The wet stone slabs, the dripping flowers and plants, the water makes the charm of Jiangnan very vivid.
The rain did not dampen the interest of tourists. Many people would rather soak in the rain and seem to want to fully explore the garden. Because I always go to Beijing’s gardens every now and then to spend half a day relaxing, the Humble Administrator’s Garden didn’t give me too many amazing feelings. It’s just that the coolness and gentleness of this garden are something that Beijing’s royal gardens don’t have.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden is as delicate as a lady in fine brushwork. You can’t fault it. It’s not like some beauties that you can only look at roughly. It allows you to look at it carefully with a microscope. , even if the lead is washed away, there is still a graceful and delicate beauty. This is like a northern beauty standing next to a southern beauty. The northern beauty is naturally superior to others in terms of aura, but if you can't understand them both inside and out, the texture of their skin will unconsciously make people sigh. The beauty from the south of the Yangtze River is just as quiet as a virgin. When you carefully slide your fingertips over her tender skin, you will feel the smoothness of satin and the warmth of gelatin.
There are not many red flowers in the garden, but among the verdant and poetic grass and trees, there are some other charming and long-lasting charms. Green has always been the best decoration. Green is everywhere. After being kissed by the clear rain, it becomes more graceful and graceful. It makes you feel like you are walking in heaven.
Water is the best interpretation of the Humble Administrator’s Garden. Just as Jiangnan would no longer be Jiangnan without water, the soul relies on it and cannot be abandoned.
Almost all scenery will become alive with some water, even the small oasis of shallow water in the desert will make people's soul flutter. Water is everywhere, surrounded here and there, intertwined among the lush trees and flowers. The best line of poetry at this time can only be compared to "The grass is green, the white dew is frost, the so-called beauty is on the side of the water."
This is a beauty who has stood in the water for hundreds of years. Countless people come to admire her and cannot afford to be intoxicated by her beauty. Wumen is soaked in smoke and water, and the poems of the Tang and Song Dynasties are written down. Think about it, is there any place more soul-destroying than this?
A Dream of Red Mansions, without the essence of the Humble Administrator’s Garden, how could it have such an eternal fragrance? Strolling under the flower wall where Sister Lin used to be miserable in the wind and rain, crossing the stone bridge that she caressed gently, how many flowing clouds and light smoke slipped through the palm of my hand, and how many emotions at this time were not as exciting as the song of "burying flowers". All broken.
The petals of the oleander are drifting on the edge of the lake with the wind and rain. This is the first time I have paid attention to this flower in the water. The flowers are bright and bright on the branches, but when they fall into the water, they are so clear and crystal clear. The water is the boat on which she sleeps, and the wind is the oar that helps her dream. In the pursuit and lingering, how many words fall among the flowers, and how many beautiful waters float away. On the lake, there is an aura of seclusion, scattered with clear flowers. Absolute melancholy.
The flowers in the water have shattered so many prosperous dreams and indulged in so many loves, hates and hatreds. I sigh for it, but it is not as good as Cao Xueqin's The Red Mansion.
Another burst of rain came quickly, and the sound of pattering on the banana leaves came from far and near. When I raised my eyes, I realized that the Recording Pavilion was right in front of me. It feels like searching for her thousands of times, only to suddenly look back and find her in a windy and rainy place. Sitting here and taking a rest, I feel as comfortable as a god, and I no longer want to move to look at the exquisitely carved balconies and pavilions.
Close your eyes and listen to the rain, and recite the sentence "The old rain illuminates the garden, and the tea is fried in front of the wind." If you have a cup of tea in your hand at this time and play the guqin lightly, it will be such a pleasant experience. The old owner of this garden lived a life like a god, which made me so envious that I wished I could retreat across time and space, even if it was just a breath of fresh air and clouds, to witness his leisurely and quiet life. Such wishful thinking is something that only a person like me, who dreams during the day, can imagine.
It is difficult for the Eighteen Mandala Flower House not to remind people of the fairy sisters in Jin Yong’s works. A beauty like Wang Yuyan should be in such a flower house to look so beautiful, otherwise she would be It's just a worldly thing, so it's not like that part of the world has lost its soul. At that time, Jin Yong probably had the idea of ??having such a fairy-like sister when he was passing by here.
In the Humble Administrator's Garden, this beautiful lady with everlasting beauty dances with her arms raised, sings and sleeps, the sun and the moon are like a plate, and she grows old and fleeting.
[Huqiu]
If you come to Suzhou without going to Huqiu, it will be a regret. This is what Su Dongpo said thousands of years ago.
When I came to Huqiu many years ago, the surrounding environment was still very desolate, but now it is so prosperous that it is hard to touch. This kind of tone is actually not suitable for Huqiu. It seems impetuous and noisy, but I am a little worried that the busy traffic will disturb the fragrant soul of the peerless beauty in the forest.
After crossing these mundane things and stepping onto the stone bridge, I feel that I am far away from the world of mortals. The deep woods, the well-proportioned terrain, and the clear blue river will calm down any irritable heart involuntarily.
Standing blankly on the stone bridge, I saw boats passing across the bridge. In the clear green shadow, the sunlight was broken like stars, broken into countless flowers, and the sound of oars gradually disappeared. The shadows of dreams, gathered and scattered, fell into poetry in my scattered feelings.
This is not a mountain, so it is a hill. But it also confirms the saying: The mountain is not high, but there are immortals.
Both poems and articles here have been written by countless celebrities and poets. Even the rock walls of different heights are carved with the rough or elegant handwriting of famous masters. . Then I was free and free, and I didn’t have to worry about composing. I could just raise my eyes casually, and some wonderful words and sentences would fall into my arms. I didn’t expect them to come out of my mouth.
Most men come here for the sword pool, but I only want to care about a woman.
Her story lacks pathos, romance and touching, and some is just endless lamentation. I often wonder, if she had known her soul, would she regret jumping out of the window? No matter how many mourning poems and songs there are, what can be more beautiful and moving than being able to stay with the person you truly love until old age?
All the piles of poems can’t compare to the repayment of that “colorful” young man who stayed alone all his life. If there is an afterlife, will the true mother fly with him without hesitation? I don’t want this flower grave covered by green vines, and I don’t want the sighs and sorrows of literati.
In the history of Huqiu, the true mother is like a drop in the ocean. There are many kings, generals, masters of calligraphy and painting, and literati masters here, but only the fragrant soul under the flower tomb makes me wander and wander.
If there was no flower grave, would there be no funeral flowers for Sister Lin? "If you bury a flower today, you will laugh like an idiot. If he buries it next year, you will know who it is." This is more like a portrayal of the infatuated prince. Thinking back then, when his true mother died, how was his mood different from Sister Lin's funeral? Flowers fade and fly away, always arriving again in full bloom in the coming year. However, human life is gone like this and never comes back.
The people of Suzhou treated this ill-fated brothel girl kindly, and they did not overshadow her because of her humble status in this place where emperors and generals hung out. Those flowers that have bloomed for thousands of years, the butterflies that have flown for thousands of years, the poems that have been chanted for thousands of years, and the lyrics that have been sung for thousands of years have added more beautiful and charming charm to Huqiu.
Just like the more ancient Yue woman, we did not hate her because she brought about the subjugation of the country. These people in Suzhou still love her beauty and her story. Carefully protect every trace left by her, and continue to paint her with brighter colors as the years change, and spread them eternally. This is the Suzhou people who love beauty, and this is the peaceful and tolerant Suzhou people. So In this way, Suzhou has maintained its beauty amidst the ups and downs of history.
If I love these beautiful scenery, I love even more the Suzhou people’s ocean-like mind, refined sentiments, and transcendent spirit. Without these beautiful qualities, how could Huqiu remain as beautiful as it has been for thousands of years? Even those outsiders were moved by this graceful and poetic temperament. They couldn't help but become affectionate, gentle, and soft-hearted. They couldn't help but add more romantic legends and beautiful stories to her.
The people of Suzhou are not the kind of cowards who can be bullied. Although they are so gentle, so calm, and so leisurely, they have never written a true shame on this land. mark. Or the three thousand swords buried with them. The cold light sword energy lives and breathes in this soil. Suzhou people have absorbed all its essence. There is water and soil, and there are people on the same side. The Suzhou people under the sword energy should have a sense of chivalry.
For example, in the legend that I like very much, Fu Chai destroyed the country of Wu, and the people of Wu actually changed the surname of Wu to the whole city. During the Ming Dynasty, he fought against the traitor Wei Zhongxian to hunt down Donglin Party members. His heroic spirit and courage were impressive. After Wei Zhongxian was wiped out, when the whole country paid tribute to the emperor for his kindness, Suzhou people erected inscriptions at the foot of Tiger Hill to bury the five ordinary citizens who died in the struggle. Enjoy the same courtesy as those celebrities and nobles, and be buried in this clear blue field like the princes. This is the normal mentality of Suzhou people, who are unyielding, not arrogant, humble, or arrogant.
Walking out of Tiger Hill, there is still the feeling of "leaning on the railing to fish in the shade of willows, leaning against the sill to enjoy the coolness in the fragrance of lotus flowers" wandering in my heart, and there is still the clear sound of Lu Yu, the tea sage, "the third spring in the world" flowing. , there are still jasmine flowers blooming and falling in front of us, fragrant and beautiful all over the world.