Current location - Quotes Website - Excellent quotations - SLR camera settings and shooting techniques
SLR camera settings and shooting techniques

What are the SLR camera settings and tips for beginners? Below I have compiled the essential SLR photography skills and SLR camera settings knowledge for beginners. You are welcome to read and refer to it!

SLR camera settings

1. Settings

1. Optimization calibration

Generally, you can use "Standard". It is recommended to adjust the sharpness of "Standard" + 3. Contrast +1, saturation +1, which can make the photo sharper. When taking portraits, it is recommended to adjust the sharpness to +4, and for landscapes, it is recommended to adjust the sharpness to +7.

2. D-Lighting

Close It is recommended to use high dynamic HDR in a large light ratio environment. Take multiple photos with different exposures and then synthesize them. The effect is much better. However, color distortion may occur.

3. M file

If you are traveling or want to capture photos at any time, try not to use M file and use A file instead, because A file is aperture priority. , you only need to adjust the aperture, and the machine will automatically adjust the shutter speed to achieve Ev balance, so that your photos will rarely be undershot or overshot.

4. Light metering

Under normal circumstances, you can use range or central evaluation metering during the day, and it is best to use spot metering at night.

5. ISO

The larger the value, the faster the shutter will be. If the ISO is doubled, the shutter will be twice as fast. However, the noise will increase. 400 during the day, 1600 and above indoors, and 6400 at night will not be a big problem. Noise control is still very good!

6. Aperture

This value The larger the aperture, the smaller the aperture. The larger the aperture, the more light can reach the cmos, and the faster the shutter will be. If the aperture is twice as large, the shutter will be twice as fast. At the same time, a large aperture will result in a shallow depth of field, which means the background will be blurred more severely. In addition, the definition of aperture is calculated based on the human eye's values ??of 1 and 0. Generally speaking, when shooting landscapes, the aperture should be between f8-f11, and the close-up should be around f4.

7. Focal length

The smaller the focal length, the larger the scene captured, and vice versa. At the same time, as the focal length increases, the depth of field becomes smaller and the background becomes easier to blur.

2. Tips

1. Take pictures of small stationary things

Such as flowers, birds, and insects: Use A mode, and the aperture is best at f5, 6 or below , the focal length is preferably above 50, try to shoot within 1m to blur the background! If the light is good, ISO100, if the light is bad, ISO is best within 400.

2. Taking pictures of people

Basically, use a larger aperture (within f5, 6) and a focal length of more than 50mm. The shooting distance depends on the whole body, half body, and headshot. To blur the background, use A mode! If the light is good, iso100, if the light is bad, within iso400.

3. When shooting scenes

In A mode, use an appropriate aperture, f8 or above. The focal length is arbitrary, but generally there is distortion at the wide-angle end, so use it as appropriate.

4. Shoot night scenes

Use a tripod, M setting, custom white balance or incandescent light, aperture above f8, small aperture can make the light produce starlight effect; within iso200, Try to lengthen the exposure time as much as possible, so that some people who accidentally walked by can disappear from the screen, leaving no traces and purifying the scene.

5. Shooting fireworks

Use a shutter release, B shutter, and long exposure to create the effect of multiple overlapping fireworks.

6. Shoot moving things

When the light is good: A position, the aperture size should be adjusted accordingly; use an aperture above f8 to get a large depth of field effect, use a small aperture to get a shallow depth of field effect Effect;

If you want to take a very dynamic effect, you can use S mode, the shutter speed is about 1/30, focus and press the shutter at the same time, the lens will chase the subject at a suitable speed, and it will produce a very dynamic effect. Effect.

Situations with poor lighting: You can only deal with it as appropriate, and use tracking shots.

7. Take pictures of flowing water or fountains

Use S mode and a shutter speed of about 1/50 to get a satin effect. Use a faster shutter to take pictures of water droplets. Effect!

8. Night portrait photography

Put on a tripod, adjust the white balance, automatic or custom white balance; iso100-400; A file, aperture around f8, use slow sync Flash, rear-curtain flash mode; at this time, the flash will flash twice, once when the shutter is pressed, and again before the exposure ends, so people should not leave before it flashes twice. In this way, the characters will be clear and the background neon will be beautiful, without the background being underexposed and too dark.

9. Aperture priority skills:

1) No matter what you shoot, unless you want to maintain a safe shutter, don’t shoot at the maximum aperture.

2) When shooting landscapes, please try to use an aperture of F8 to F11.

3) When taking close-ups of people and still life, you can use the maximum aperture to be reduced by 1 to 2 stops.

4) Please try to control the safety shutter to be above the reciprocal of the focal length. The wide-angle end shutter should also be above 1/30 second for safety. If the shutter speed is insufficient, please increase the aperture or ISO.

10. Metering method:

1) Don’t point the meter at the sky or the darkest place, but try to capture the middle value.

2) Make good use of the metering modes (weighted metering, spot metering, center-weighted metering) according to the subject matter you are shooting.

3) If you encounter inaccurate metering, please lock the exposure of the gray objects around you before shooting.

4) Try not to meter white or black objects, otherwise please remember to subtract EV for black and add EV for white.

EV means exposure compensation. Exposure compensation is also a method of exposure control. It is generally around 2-3EV. If the ambient light source is dark, you can increase the exposure value (such as adjusting to +1EV, +2EV ) to highlight the clarity of the picture.

When the shooting environment is dark and the brightness needs to be increased, but the flash cannot work, the exposure can be compensated and the exposure appropriately increased. When performing exposure compensation, if the photo is too dark, increase the EV value. Each increase in EV value by 1 or 0 is equivalent to doubling the amount of light taken in. If the photo is too bright, decrease the EV value. Each time the EV value decreases, A smaller value of 1 or 0 is equivalent to doubling the amount of light taken in.

When the white object being photographed looks gray or not white enough in the photo, you need to increase the exposure. Simply put, "the whiter, the more". This seems to be consistent with the basic principles and habits of exposure. It's the opposite, but it's not. This is because the camera's metering often focuses on the subject in the center. The white subject will make the camera mistakenly think that the environment is very bright, so it will be underexposed. This is also a common mistake that most beginners make.

Since the shutter time or aperture size of the camera is limited, it is not always possible to reach the 2EV adjustment range. Therefore, exposure compensation is not omnipotent. In an environment that is too dark, it may still be underexposed. This You should consider using a flash or increasing the ISO sensitivity of the camera to increase the brightness of the picture. Generally speaking, the smaller the brightness contrast of the scene, the more accurate the exposure, and vice versa, the deviation will increase.

In short, the adjustment of exposure compensation is determined by experience and sensitivity to color. Users must compare the picture quality, clarity, restoration and noise size under different exposure compensations in order to Take the best pictures possible.

11. There is a basic principle. If it is not equipped with a special high-end sensor, all noise reduction achieved by software will be at the expense of details.

I saw someone shooting with ISO=12800 in broad daylight on a sunny day. I really don’t understand. There is no doubt that the lower the sensitivity, the better the image quality. When the speed and aperture allow, try to use a low sensitivity. This is the basic requirement for taking good photos. Although the D5100 has the most powerful high-sensitivity among entry-level SLRs, don’t set it too high easily. There are only two situations where it is more reasonable to use high-sensitivity settings, one is handheld shooting of night scenes, and the second is shooting dynamic scenes in low light.

Special attention should be paid to image quality. Generally, ISO100-400 is used. The difference in image quality between ISO100, 200 and 400 is very small. In order to prevent smearing, ISO800-3200 is generally used. ISO64 million can also be used as a last resort. ISO12800 has better image quality than 6400. Sudden deterioration, it is best never to use it.

12. When using the standard lens, pay attention to the focal length and aperture selection.

The 18-55 lens has two obvious shortcomings: the wide-angle end has poor sharpness at large apertures, and the telephoto end has better sharpness, but it is worse than the middle focal length. When using it, try not to use both ends, but since the wide angle is only 18mm and it has to be used, then when the focal length is 18mm, you need to close the aperture, usually above F8, and try to avoid the telephoto end of 55mm, and use 40mm. .

There is a wise saying: F8 has no head. By the way, the 18-105mm lens. The 18-105 lens is much sharper than the 18-55 lens and is worth choosing. However, the biggest problem is that the wide-angle distortion is too large, so it is best used for shooting portraits and natural scenery. When shooting buildings, the best focal length is around 24mm ( minimal distortion). The pincushion distortion at the telephoto end of this lens is relatively not obvious, so you can use it with confidence.