Tea ceremony is an art of drinking tea with the aim of practicing Taoism, and it is the unity of tea drinking and tea cultivation. Tea ceremony includes four elements: tea ceremony, tea ceremony, tea environment and cultivation. The so-called tea art refers to a set of skills of preparing utensils, selecting water, taking fire, waiting for soup and learning tea; The so-called tea ceremony refers to the etiquette and rules in tea activities; The so-called tea scene refers to the place, environment and so-called cultivation of tea activities, and refers to the cultivation of nature and enlightenment through tea activities.

Tao, as the highest category of China's philosophy, generally refers to the laws of the universe, the ultimate truth, the general law of the movement of things, and the essence or origin of all things. Tao includes Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and different schools. The mainstream of China's culture is "Confucianism and Taoism complement each other", and from the Sui and Tang Dynasties, it tends to "the integration of the three religions". Ordinary literati and scholar-officials often practice cowardice and Buddhism. Even if Taoist priests and Buddhists migrate, they often bypass Confucianism, Buddhism and cowardice. The most widely spread and China-featured school of Zen Buddhism absorbed some thoughts of Laozi, Zhuangzi, Confucius and Mencius, and a major feature of Buddhism in the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties was to integrate cowardice and the three religions; Neo-cowardice in Song and Ming Dynasties absorbed both Taoism and Buddhism, and there was a saying of "Zhu Zi's Taoism and Lu Zi's Zen". Wang Zhongyang, the founder of the Quan Zhen School of Taoism in Jin and Yuan Dynasties, tried his best to advocate "the unity of the three religions". His poem says: "A coward's Buddhism and Taoism are interlinked, and the three religions have always been one ancestor", and "Buddhism and Taoism have always been one family, and there is no difference between the two appearances".

what's done in the tea ceremony? Can be a coward's way. It can be Taoism, the home of Taoism, Zen and Buddhism, which varies from person to person. Generally speaking, the way to practice in tea ceremony is to synthesize the ways of various families. To sum up, the ideal pursuit of monasticism is health preservation, delight, cultivation, and enlightenment. It is the ideal result of monasticism, the ultimate pursuit of tea ceremony and the highest realm of life. Prove the Tao is the unity of heaven and man, that is, the heart is the Tao, heaven and earth coexist with me, everything is one with me, extremely clear and moderate, doing nothing and doing nothing.

Looking at the history of tea drinking in China, we can see that there are four kinds of tea drinking methods: boiling, frying, lighting and soaking, and the tea art is formed by frying, lighting and making tea. As far as tea art is concerned, China tea ceremony has successively produced three forms: frying tea ceremony, lighting tea ceremony and making tea.

Tea art is the foundation of demanding Taoism, and the formation of tea art must be after the popularization of tea drinking and the perfection of tea art.. Although there was tea drinking before the Tang Dynasty, it was not common. Although there was a prototype of tea art in the Eastern Jin Dynasty (see Du Yu's Fu of [Shang Yi Xia Yi]), it was far from perfect. Jin and Song Dynasties reached the peak of Tang Dynasty, which was the gestation period of China Tea Ceremony.

after the mid-Tang dynasty, China people almost became a custom to drink tea, forming a "drinking like a house" and "starting from the middle and flowing beyond the Great Wall". During the period of Su Zong and Dai Zong in the Tang Dynasty, Lu Yu wrote Tea Classics, which laid the foundation for the tea ceremony in China. After the practice, polishing and perfection of Jiao Ran, Chang Boxiong and others, the "fried tea ceremony" was formed; During the Northern Song Dynasty, Cai Xiang wrote Tea Record and Huizong Zhao Ji wrote Daguan Tea Theory, thus forming the "tea ceremony". In the middle of the Ming Dynasty, Zhang Yuan wrote Tea Record and Xu Cishu wrote Tea Shu, which marked the birth of "Tea Road".

There was no monograph on tea ceremony in ancient China, and the contents about tea ceremony were scattered in all kinds of tea books and tea poems and paintings. The following is the context of the formation and development of China Tea Ceremony, which is found by the author from the ancient tea books and tea poems.

First, the Tang and Song Dynasties-the tea frying ceremony

I don't know when the tea frying method started, but it was recorded in detail in Lu Yu's Tea Classic. The first draft of Tea Classic was written in the first year of Yongtai, Tang Daizong (AD 765), and was revised and finalized in the first year of Jianzhong, Dezong (AD 78). The publication of Tea Classic marks the birth of China Tea Ceremony. Later, Fiji Wen wrote the Book of Tea, Zhang Youxin wrote the Book of Fried Tea, Wen Dan Yun wrote the Record of Tea Picking, and Jiao Ran and Lu Tong wrote tea songs, which helped to make China's fried tea ceremony more and more mature.

Tea-frying ceremony

Tea-frying ceremony has five links: preparing utensils, selecting water, taking fire, waiting for soup and learning tea.

1. Prepare the device

The "Four Devices" chapter of Tea Classic lists 24 things in tea ware, namely, wind furnace (including ash bearing), [bamboo on the top and Lu on the bottom], charcoal fire [bamboo on the top and clip on the bottom], [complex], bed making, paper bag clamping, grinding and brushing.

2. Choose water

The "Five Cooks" in the Book of Tea says: "Its water is used in mountains and rivers, rivers and wells." "Its mountains and rivers, picking milk springs and stone pools overflow." "The river, take people far away. Well, take more. " In his later years, Lu Yu wrote "Water Products" (a talk about "Spring Products"). Zhang Youxin wrote "Jian Cha Shui Ji" around the first year of 825 AD, in which Liu Jian was quoted to judge the water in the world, and Lu Yu judged the water in the world, etc. Paying attention to water quality is the characteristic of China Tea Ceremony.

3. Make a fire

The "Five Cooks" in the Book of Tea says, "When you make a fire, use charcoal, and then use hard work. Its charcoal has been burnt to the point where it is greasy, and it is not necessary to paste wood and defeat it. " Wen Dan-yun wrote the article "Discrimination" in the Record of Tea Picking around 86 AD: "Li Yue, [Tan Kai] Gongzi also. Life is not close to makeup, sex distinguishes tea. Taste the day:' tea must be roasted slowly and fried alive'. Living fire means that charcoal has a flame, so that soup can be boiled and tea can be raised. "

4. Waiting for soup

" Five Boils "in the Book of Tea says:" It boils like a fish's eye, with a slight sound, and the edge is like a spring, with two boiling points, and the waves are three boiling points. It is inedible when it is filled with water. " Waiting for soup is the key to frying tea.

5. Tea learning

Tea learning includes Tibetan tea, roasted tea, ground tea, Luo tea, fried tea, discretionary tea and tea tasting.

The article on drinking tea in Volume 6 of Feng's Wen Jian Ji, written at the end of the eighth century, reads: "Lu Hung-chien, a Chu man, talks about the efficacy of tea, and the method of frying and roasting tea, making twenty-four tea sets, and storing them in a cage in the capital. Yuan Jin admires, and a good person keeps a pair at home. Those who have Chang Bo Xiong are widely embellished by Hung-chien's theory. In measuring the tea ceremony, all princes and courtiers drink. Li Ji, the ancient adviser, should talk to the south of the Yangtze River, go to the Linhuai County Pavilion, or say that Bo Xiong is good at drinking tea. Li Gong invites him to do it. Bo Xiong writes a yellow quilt shirt with a black hat, holds tea ware in his hand, knows the name of tea by mouth, points out the difference, and scratches his eyes left and right. ..... "Chang Boxiong, whose life story is ominous, is about Liu Yu's contemporaries. He polished the Tea Classics and was proficient in tea art. He was one of the pioneers of frying tea ceremony.

Lu Yu, Chang Bo, Jiao Ran, Fei Wen, Zhang Youxin, Liu Yuxi, Bai Juyi, Li Yue, Lu Tong, Qian Qi, Du Mu, Wen Daojun, Pi Rixiu, Lu Weimeng, Qi and others all contributed to the tea art of Jian Tea Ceremony.

(2) Tea Ceremony

The "Five Cooks" in the Book of Tea says: "Those who are rich, precious, fresh and fragrant have three bowls, followed by five bowls. If the number of guests is five, three bowls will be served. Seven, five bowls. If six people have already gone down, they don't have to wait for the number of bowls, but one person is missing, and it will only make up for the missing people forever. " There are three bowls of tea at a time, but not more than five bowls. If there are five guests, three bowls of tea will be served, and if there are seven guests, five bowls of tea will be served. If there are two bowls missing, the "meaningful" scooped out first will make up for it. If there are four guests, three bowls will be served, and six guests will be served with a large bowl. The missing bowl will be filled with "meaningful". If there are more than eight people, two furnaces and three furnaces are cooked at the same time, and then the number of bowls is determined according to the number of people.

(3) Tea Scenery

The chapter "Nine Outlooks" in the Tea Classic reads "If you can sit on a stone in a pine forest", "If you can overlook a spring and face a stream" and "If you help [the three Tian Zi] to climb a rock and lead them into a cave", then tea drinking activities can be held on a stone in a pine forest. The chapter of "Ten Maps" also says: "Write it with silk or four or six pictures, and show all the seats. Then the source of tea, its tools, its making, its utensils, its cooking, its drinking, its events, its coming out, and its ignorance are witnessed and preserved, so the Book of Tea is always prepared. " When drinking tea indoors, hanging scrolls with the contents of "Tea Classics" on the four walls is the first time for later generations to hang calligraphy and painting banners.

the preface to Lu Wen's "Flower Banquet on March 3rd" says: "On March 3rd, on the day when people were already drinking, the philosophers proposed to take tea instead. It is a flower-laying, so it is cloudy, and the breeze is chasing people, and the sun is bright. Lying in the green haze, sitting and climbing the flowers, Wen Ying did not fly near the mat feather, and the red core brushed the clothes but did not leave. ..... "The warbler flies, the wind is beautiful, and the environment is quiet.

Qian Qi's "Tea Banquet with Zhao Ju" says: "You forgot to say anything about purple tea under the bamboo, and you won the victory. It' s hard to enjoy the dust washing, and the shadow of a tree is oblique. " Bamboo is swaying, the shadows are oblique, and the environment is elegant.

In the tea ceremony in the Tang Dynasty, the choice of environment focused on nature, and it was mostly in the quiet and elegant natural environment on the rocks in the forest, by the stream by the spring and under the bamboo trees. Or in the Taoist temple, the academy hall, the hall study, banners are often hung on the walls

(4) Daoism

The "One Source" in the Book of Tea says: "Tea is a thing, and it tastes cold, so it is the most suitable for drinking. Those who are diligent and thrifty, if they are thirsty and stuffy, their brains are sore, their limbs are annoyed, and they are uncomfortable for four or five times, they will compete with the dew. " Drinking tea is conducive to "fine and frugal" and makes people keep fit.

The design of the wind furnace of the "Four Instruments" in the Book of Tea has applied the "Eight Diagrams" of the Confucian Book of Changes and the "Five Elements" thought of Yin and Yang. On the wind furnace, the words "on the ridge, on the lower part, away from the middle" and "on the body, five elements are used to eliminate all diseases" are cast. The design of [Cheng Fu] is: "Let's listen to it and make it right; Wide its margin, with far-reaching affairs; Grow its navel to keep it in the middle. " Righteousness, farsightedness and loyalty reflect the Confucian thought of "righteousness".

The Book of Tea not only expounds the health-preserving function of drinking tea, but also promotes drinking tea to the spiritual and cultural level, aiming at cultivating frugality, proper command, farsightedness and loyalty.

Poetic monk Jiao Ran, an older Lu Yu, formed an unforgettable friendship with Lu Yu. Jiao Ran was good at tea ceremony and wrote more than twenty tea poems. His poem "Singing a Song of Drinking Tea" includes: "When you drink it, you will feel drowsy, and your feelings will be bright all over the sky; Drink my god again, and suddenly it is like flying rain and sprinkling light dust; After three drinks, you will get the Tao, so why bother? ..... I am familiar with the whole truth of the tea ceremony, and only Danqiu is like this. " Jiao Ran's first bid, "Tea Ceremony", has made great achievements in the history of tea culture. He believes that drinking tea can not only clear the mind, but also be the gateway to monasticism, and you can get the truth after three drinks.

Lu Tong, the son of Yuchuan, wrote in his poem "Writing a Pen to Thank Meng for Suggesting Sending New Tea": "One bowl of throat is moist, and two bowls are lonely and boring. Three bowls of search are heartbroken, only five thousand volumes of words. Four bowls of sweat, life is not smooth, all ask pores scattered. Five bowls of muscle and bone clear, six bowls of fairy spirit. I can't eat seven bowls, but I feel that the wind is blowing in my armpits. " "Five thousand volumes of words" refers to the Tao Te Ching written by Laozi in five thousand words. Three bowls of tea, only morality, which is the same as Jiao Ran's "three drinks will lead to Tao". Four bowls of tea, right and wrong are gone. Five bowls of muscle and bone are clear, six bowls of fairy spirits are connected, and seven bowls of feathering are immortal. "Seven bowls of tea" has been passed down through the ages, so Lu Tong is just as famous as Lu Yu.

Qian Qi's poem "Tea Banquet with Zhao Ju" describes that the host and guest drink tea relatively, but forget what they say and keep it, which is far better than taking medicine through alchemy.

Fei Wen's Notes on Tea: "Tea originated in the Eastern Jin Dynasty and flourished today. Its essence is clear, its taste is light and clean, its use is annoying, and its efficacy is harmonious. Participate in hundreds of products without mixing, and the more people drink, the higher they are. " Tea, clear in nature and light in taste, is harmonious when it is washed away, harmonious but different, and unique in character.

Since the mid-Tang Dynasty, we have realized the clear and light nature of tea and its functions of removing annoyance, harmony and authenticity. Drinking tea can make people keep healthy, be happy, cultivate their sexuality, gain enlightenment, and even become immortal. Lu Yu's Tea Classic, Fei Wen's Tea Description, Jiao Ran's "Three Drinks" and Lu Tong's "Seven Bowls" hold high the spirit of tea ceremony, raising tea drinking from ordinary material life to spiritual and cultural level.

to sum up, in the second half of the eighth century, during the middle Tang Dynasty, the tea art of frying tea was complete, established with the idea of tea cultivation, and paid attention to the preliminary tea drinking etiquette in the tea drinking environment, which marked the formal formation of China Tea Ceremony. Lu Yu is not only the founder of Jian Tea Ceremony, but also the founder of China Tea Ceremony. Jian Tea Ceremony is the earliest form of tea ceremony in China, which flourished in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties, the Northern Song Dynasty and died in the Southern Song Dynasty, lasting about 5 years.

second, the song and Ming dynasties-tea ceremony

the tea ceremony began at the end of the Tang dynasty, and it became more and more popular from the five dynasties to the northern song dynasty. In the middle of the 11th century, Cai Xiang wrote two Records of Tea. The first one deals with tea, including color, fragrance, taste, Tibetan tea, roasted tea, ground tea, Luo tea, waiting for soup, ① tea, and ordered tea. The second one deals with tea ware, tea baking, tea cage, anvil, tea wok, tea mill, tea wheel, tea cup, teaspoon. Cai Xiang was a famous calligrapher in the Northern Song Dynasty, as well as a writer, tea expert and litchi expert. His Tea Record laid the foundation of tea art.

at the beginning of the 12th century, Song Huizong Zhao Ji wrote 2 articles on Daguan Tea: real estate, season, picking, steaming, manufacturing, identification, white tea, rolling, lamp, reed, ladle, water, point, taste, fragrance, color and taste. Zhao Ji is an outstanding artist, who is good at painting, calligraphy and poetry, and is good at tea ceremony. Tea ceremony was brewed in the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, and matured in the late Northern Song Dynasty.

①: fire on the left side; Right side: three "forces" on the top and "moon" on the bottom.

(1) tea ceremony tea ceremony

tea ceremony tea ceremony includes five links: preparing utensils, selecting water, lighting fire, waiting for soup and learning tea.

1. Equipment

Books such as Tea Record, Tea Theory, and Tea Manual all record the tea-ordering equipment. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the old man Shen 'an wrote "A Picture of Tea Set", listing the names, characters and numbers of the 12 main pieces of tea ware for tea ceremony, with drawings and praise. To sum up, the main tea ware tea ceremony makers are: tea stove, soup bottle, anvil, tea pot, tea mill, tea mill, tea roller, teaspoon, tea pot, tea lamp and so on.

2. Choose water

The Song people chose water to inherit the Tang people's view, and it is not on the mountain, in the river and under the well. However, the article "Water" in Daguan Tea Theory thinks that "water is beautiful when it is light and sweet, and it is rare to be light and sweet. The ancients tasted water, although Rizhong Ling and Huishan were the best, but the distance between people seemed to be unusual, but they should be the cleansers of mountain springs. Secondly, those who often draw well water are available. If the river is full of water, the fishy smell of fish and turtles and the muddy sweat are light and sweet. " Song Huizong advocated that water should be light and sweet, and landscape and well water should be used instead of river water.

3. Making fire

Song people made fire basically the same as Tang people

4. Waiting for soup

The article "Waiting for soup" in Cai Xiang's Tea Record says: "It is the most difficult to wait for soup, and it will foam when it is not ripe, and it will sink when it is too ripe. Those who were called crab eyes in previous lives have overcooked soup. The cooking in the sink bottle is indistinguishable, so it is the most difficult to wait for the soup. " Cai Xiang thinks that the crab eye soup is over-cooked, and the water is boiled in a soup bottle, and the bubbles are hard to distinguish, so it is the most difficult to wait for the soup. The article "Water" in Zhao Ji's Daguan Tea Theory says: "If you use soup, you should take the fish's eyes and crab's eyes as the degree. If you are too old, you should throw it with less fresh water, and then use it immediately." Zhao Ji thought that the water boiled until the eyes of the fish and crab jumped to a certain degree. Cai Xiang thinks that the crab's eyes are over-ripe, while Zhao Ji thinks that the fish's crab's eyes are even more advanced. The old and tender soup depends on the tea, while the tender tea depends on Cai, and the old tea depends on Zhao.

5. Tea learning

The tea learning procedures for tea ceremony mainly include: collecting tea, washing tea, roasting tea, grinding tea, grinding tea, Luo tea, ① cup, ordering tea (mixing paste, beating) and tasting tea.

Cai Xiang, Zhao Ji, Zhu Quan, Qian Chunnian, Gu Yuanqing, Tu Long, Zhang Qiande, Ding Wei Song dynasty, Fan Zhongyan, Mei Yaochen, Ouyang Xiu, Lin Tong, Su Shi, Huang Danjian, Lu You and others all contributed to Diancha. Su Shi's "Ye Jiachuan" clearly describes people and secretly writes tea, which implies the method of ordering tea.