Mr. Lu Xun has a famous saying about crabs: "People who eat crabs for the first time are admirable. Who dares to eat them if they are not warriors?" There is some truth in this statement. Crab not only looks strange and scary, but also its hard shell is like armor. How can a warrior not think of eating its meat? However, after the first person became a warrior because of eating crabs, the second or even the nth person who ate crabs can only be diners, and at most there is a distinction between elegance and indecency between them.
crabs are indeed a poetic thing. Since Wei and Jin Dynasties, eating crabs in autumn has become a symbol of fashion and elegance. "Shi Shuo Xin Yu" clearly wrote: "Bi Mao Shi Yun:' Holding crab claws and holding wine, patting the floating wine pool will be enough for a lifetime." "Since then, eating crabs, drinking, enjoying chrysanthemums and composing poems have become the affairs of celebrities in autumn.
In A Dream of Red Mansions, Cao Xueqin also spent a lot of time describing the elegant thing of eating crabs and composing poems in the thirty-eighth poem "Poem of Lin Xiaoxiang's Capturing Chrysanthemums, Poem of Xue Heng and Poem of Crabs": in the novel, Li Wan and Xi Feng were first written to wait for the Lady Dowager and Aunt Xue to peel the crab meat, and then the maid was ordered to take the face of mung beans smoked by chrysanthemum flowers in Ye Er and prepare to wash her hands. While talking and laughing, Pinger tried to wipe Amber's face with a fishy hand, but Amber escaped and rubbed it on Xifeng's face, which caused everyone to laugh. Baoyu, an affectionate seed in Jia's house, said, "Today, you can't enjoy the laurels with crabs without poems. I have sung it, who dares to do it? " Unexpectedly, Baoyu's poem about crabs was badly written, but later Xue Baochai's poem said, "After reading it, everyone said it was the swan song of eating crabs." The poem wrote, "Gui Ai Tong sat in the shade and raised her hand, and Chang 'an looked forward to Chongyang. There is no latitude and longitude in front of you, and the skin is black and yellow in the spring and autumn. Chrysanthemum is also used when the wine is not fishy, and ginger must be used to prevent cold accumulation. What is the benefit of falling into the kettle today, and Yuepu has spare rice and incense. "
Nowadays, agricultural breeding technology is developed, and crabs are not only fat in autumn, but also fat and big all year round, and some of them are exaggerated to some extent. Under this premise, people eating crabs has become a fashion that has passed away. Don't you know that in some decent restaurants today, which one doesn't have spicy crabs and other road dishes on its menu? As for writing poems while tasting crabs, it has long been an ancient irretrievable behavior.
in my opinion, the reason why eating crabs has become a fashion and trend is not really that it tastes so good, because there are many delicious things today, but it is really rare that crabs have been enduring for thousands of years. Eating crabs is a slow job, which requires excellent leisure. If a person has been hungry for three days, he will definitely choose the best spicy crab and a bowl of fried egg noodles. In this way, eating crabs has a premise: eat without being hungry. That is to say, only under the premise of not being hungry, diners can easily get the crab meat out of its hard shell (in fact, it takes half a day, but only enough to eat a bite). When Feng Zikai wrote about his father, he recalled that one of his old people's hobbies was drinking yellow wine with a crab for several hours. In fact, the meaning of drunkenness does not lie in drinking and eating crabs, and its meaning originally does not lie in crabs, but in the elegance that can be rendered or pretentious elegance. Therefore, when some people want to pick up girls, they often call and say, "I'll invite you to eat spicy crabs tonight." It seems that with a spicy crab in hand, people can immediately become petty bourgeoisie and white-collar workers.
Zhang Dai, a scholar in the late Ming Dynasty, once wrote a short article about crabs, talking about his elegance when he was young: "The food with five flavors without salt is a clam and a river crab. By October, the crab is as fat as rice and rice, and its shell is as big as a plate ... Lift its shell, and the paste is greasy and piled up, like jade, and it will stick together, although it is not as precious as eight treasures. From January to October, I set up a meeting with my friends and brothers, which was scheduled to arrive in the afternoon and cooked crab food for six people. I was afraid of cold and fishy, and I cooked it repeatedly. From fat preserved duck, cow cheese, drunken crab like amber, boiled cabbage with duck juice like jade rice. The fruit is bitter with orange, chestnut with wind, and ling with wind. Drink jade pot ice, vegetables pit bamboo shoots with soldiers, rice with Xinyu Hangbai, and wash with Lanxue tea. From today's thinking, it's really like a celestial chef offering, drunk and full of food, ashamed. "
in his early years, Zhang Dai was a noble son, rich in luxuries and luxuries, but in his later years, his country broke down and his family died. In the evening scene of almost starvation, this gentleman still relishes the crab feast in his early years, which makes people sigh. In any era, if the wind of luxury is so rampant, there is little reason not to die.