Black fashion magician-Yoji Yamamoto
Japanese fashion godfather, black fashion magician, and famous saying master in the circle of friends
Yohji Yamamoto lost his father when he was young. She was raised by her mother (Fumei) alone. Her mother was a tailor and her income was not promising.
At that time, the slums (Shitamachi area) in Japan were very simple, dirty, and the heavy black atmosphere followed the silhouette of his mother holding a candle, which became two profound scenes in Yamamoto's childhood. This scene caused a deep impression on him. rooted in his future aesthetic concepts.
In order to make a living, his mother disciplined him, but Yamamoto was very self-disciplined and was admitted to Keio University in Japan, where he was still very famous and studied law. After he graduated, he traveled to Europe, and then he had the idea of ??studying fashion design, so he went to Tokyo Bunka Fashion College to study fashion design despite his objections. He achieved very good results in his studies and received a scholarship. In 1969, he also won the Zhuoyuan Prize and the Endo Prize, which gave him the opportunity to study in Paris.
You completed your studies in Paris in 1970, and he was already 27 years old. Although he was fascinated by the cultural atmosphere and freedom of Paris, he still chose to return to Japan for development. After all, his mother still misses him at home.
After returning, he established his own clothing design studio in 1972. Because in the process of growing up, Yamamoto was not used to reading habits in Japan, such as secular concepts, petty bourgeois sentiments, norms, the rules and regulations of Japanese life, etc., and a series of requirements for women. Because after World War II, women also needed to go out to work and earn money, but they were not treated equally. This made Yamamoto feel angry all the time. Therefore, in order to make it easier for Japanese women to dress at work, Yamamoto began to design some loose, comfortable, smart and beautiful clothing. Out of his own way.
His styles coincided with those of designer Rei Kawakubo, and I thought they were different clothes designed by the same person. The two met frequently and fell into a long-lasting platonic romance. In the end, Kawahisa married a British designer, ending the relationship. But now the two are still good friends.
The two people were actually at the same time when they became famous. In Paris in 1981, he and Rei Kawakubo made an appointment to go to Paris together and held their first fashion show in Paris. At that time, France was the center of Europe. The aesthetic system is roughly like this: the tailoring should be exquisite, the shape should be symmetrical, and the colors should be high-end. However, Yohji Uemoto showed rough, loose and colorful black clothes in his debut show. His design is completely contrary to traditional Western clothing. , which brought great shock to the fashion industry at that time. So after the fashion show, the media began to report extensively. At this time, he was already 38 years old. He had a vague feeling that he was going to become famous. Then it was reported that there were actually two sides, two extremes (loving and hating). Some mainstream media once described Yohji Yamamoto as Rei Kawakubo was like Hiroshima's revenge. She dropped a bomb on Hiroshima and even said to get out of the fashion circle. Then after Yamamoto's humorous good times, he published a book called "I Dropped a Bomb". You can go buy it and take a look
Media attention is the rhythm of becoming popular, but it took two years of public opinion to settle his position as master, and later described it as Every time I go to Paris, I go to quarrel.
After he became famous, he had a famous saying: What is more annoying than being dressed neatly? ? - - Yohji Yamamoto
Reflecting his unique attitude towards fashion design, he soon became known as the three carriages in Japan along with Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake
In terms of the aesthetic concept of design, Yamamoto is good at combining Western architectural styles with traditional Japanese clothing. All innovations stem from a chemical experiment of grafting and mixing. He hopes to make clothing not only a covering for the body, but also a A communication hub between wearers, bodies and designers.
In the 1980s, Westerners liked to perform top-down three-dimensional tailoring on human models, so Yamamoto started with two-dimensional straight lines, an asymmetrical form. This concept Derived from traditional Japanese clothing, these irregular forms have this sense of natural flow. It will change according to the wearer's movements, showing different styles. Moreover, Yamamoto blurred the boundaries of gender. He believed that women should dress like men, without emphasizing women's lines, making it easier to work. Men's clothing will be feminine and soft, unrestrained, and like to use skirts. Influenced by my mother.
The media called his clothing style: androgynous. It is indeed very appropriate
In addition, Yamamoto adheres to a characteristic in design, which is anti-fashion and mainstream. This persistence has become fashion itself.
He will listen to the sound of the fabric and the position of the buttons. They mainly develop towards luxury goods. Although he did not make much money in this, some people say that he was not successful. So what is the definition of success for Yamamoto?
My success is different from yours. For me, expressing what I want to say through clothing is success.
- - Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto’s charm essentially comes not only from the design itself, but also from his attitude towards life. As a trendsetter in the fashion world, he is also a business card of Japanese fashion design, and there are many more. Different social roles, including musicians, karate black belts, painters and poets, among which the most talked about is the identity of a musician. Also published four albums. Music is one of his ways to rest. As a child, he loved music and formed a band.
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