Just last night, we welcomed a big show of Paris Gaoding Week-Dior released the autumn and winter 222 haute couture collection at the Rodin Art Museum in Paris.

Through the behind-the-scenes stories shared before the show, we have guessed that the theme of this series is related to folk customs and traditions, and it is presented by exquisite craftsmanship.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women's wear, further revealed on social media: "The core element of this high-end show is the Tree of Life, which is a symbol of all myths and religions, the universe and spiritual life around the world."

Close cooperation with female artists has always been an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri. The bright and magnificent artistic paintings at this season's conference were conceived and created by Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko. "Tree of Life" is her representative creative element, symbolizing optimism and hope. Artistic painting originated from Ukrainian traditional decorative painting and embroidery technology are blended and interpreted, and rich emotions are injected with skillful craftsmanship.

When dozens of artistic embroideries are laid out along the wall, a fantastic journey intertwined with ancient myths and reality begins.

1. Embroidery craft full of "vitality"

After the theme of "Tree of Life" is decided, the next problem facing Maria Grazia Chiuri is: How to express "Life" in high-end custom uniforms? She thought of the most important "embroidery" in Dior couture workshop, so as to connect brand genes, art and folk costume themes.

The big show started with a soft white color, and the dress was decorated with exquisite rose patterns-out of great respect for Mr. Christian Dior who loves roses.

This iconic element is woven by cotton thread, silk thread and yarn in various techniques. 3D three-dimensional embroidery shows the eternal charm of "Dior Rose", and also skillfully interprets the branches, trunks and roots of the tree of life.

The beige fashion that comes out with it outlines the flowers and leaves with white silk thread, embellishes the pale yellow and goose yellow stamens, or faintly touches black and blue. Deep and shallow, patterns and colors overlap, highlighting the exquisite skills of Dior workshop craftsmen.

The shoes are also made of similar technology. Lace embroidery is used to splice the cloth surface with thin and narrow boots, showing Dior girls' flexibility and rigidity.

These luxurious embroideries need a lot of time and energy to achieve perfection. At the same time, it is necessary for the creator to put his emotions into the hand-made temperature, so that the colorful silk thread can be turned into a colorful mosaic, which can bloom on cotton fabric, wool crepe, silk and cashmere.

And all the patterns, embroideries, and fine beads on this high-end custom-made uniform are finished by the traditional craft full of human feelings. As Chiuri said, "Haute Couture is a unique feeling of contact with people."

Among them, the sleeveless dress is decorated with charming mesh embroidery, which makes the upper and lower dresses show different appearances. It seems simple, but in fact, the process is extremely complicated: first, the embroidery part should be completed, and then decorated with ribbons to create a cross texture; The neckline and cuffs are edged with different techniques, which add a three-dimensional effect to the flat fabric and highlight the high-order embroidery process in many dimensions.

In the last season, a similar process was revealed in the tidbits of Dior's spring and summer 222 high-order series. However, different fabrics are used to achieve different visual effects, and there are also differences in material selection and embroidery methods. Only experienced, creative and patient producers can reach the ultra-high standards set by Dior and bring beautiful and moving clothes.

The elegant dress skirt is decorated with exquisite braid, which is composed of bronze and black lace and embossed lace.

These unique tassel patterns and decorative methods originated from "vyshyvanka" in traditional Ukrainian costumes. Chiuri and the creative team revived this traditional style, bringing a new and contemporary fusion style.

2. "Re-growth" of classic fabrics and silhouettes

In addition to decorative innovation in the "surface", Dior in the new season also uses ingenious techniques in the "invisible" places. The elegant and smart long skirt is made of pure silk chiffon fabric, combined with exquisite pleating technology, which skillfully fits the figure curve and shows the light posture of women.

The drape fabric is pleated by hand with rich weaving details, showing a completely different appearance from the pleating process. The former is soft and romantic, while the latter is elegant and free and easy.

Romantic flowers are skillfully woven to create a unique fabric, which presents an irregular texture on the dress.

Or "mix and match" materials with strong contrast such as lace, velvet and mesh. Soft and crisp, silky and textured, make the simple dress show a conflicting appearance.

Chiuri mentioned in an interview after the show: "Some works are not so conspicuous; In addition to customers, others are' invisible'. " She means "silhouette"-you can only feel it if you put it on yourself. For example, the "New Look" initiated by Mr. Christian Dior in 1947 has also been reinterpreted with a variety of fabrics: the classic Bar Jacket interprets the unique texture with fine pleated fabrics, combined with low stand-up collars, showing the oriental style; The umbrella skirt is shaped with ribbons to shape the Basque style.

Dior suit has also undergone a new design. First, it has a looser silhouette with a loose medium-length skirt; The second is to add the decorative details of the Chinese-style buckle and mix it with the tassel fringe, which is refreshing.

A silk or cotton trench coat with cocoon-shaped contour and a patchwork cashmere or embroidered coat complement each other with an elegant and silky long dress skirt.

At the end of the big show, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented a series of "fairy dresses" as usual. They may use pleating technology to add rich rhythm to skirts and highlight the graceful curves of women; Or with touching embroidery, Chiuri's fantastic ideas about folk customs will make the tulle skirt have the most dreamy and exquisite appearance.

"Advanced customization represents endless exploration, just like an experimental field, which is the fusion of art and skill." The same is true of Dior in the new season, focusing on craftsmanship and full of artistry, just like experiencing a dream full of life tension, gorgeous.