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Why is Daming Dress "so popular" in North Korea?
/kloc-The Mongolian Empire, which rose in the 0/3rd century, not only brought the Jin Dynasty and the Southern Song Dynasty into the territory, but also Korea, a peaceful corner, was involved in the imperial vassal system.

Yuan dynasty and other Mongolian khanates

After loyal to the monarch (Wang Yun, 1236— 1308), the Yuan Dynasty formed an "uncle-nephew relationship" with North Korea. North Korea maintained the "state system" through the participation of royal children in the Yuan Dynasty, friendship and tribute to women. (Recommended reading: Reading notes: Why were there so many Korean concubines in the harem of the Yuan Dynasty? )

Although the Yuan Dynasty never implemented a strict policy of "shaving hair and changing clothes" in China as in the Qing Dynasty, "Mongolian style" as a dominant national culture began to spread in East Asia. Like the costumes, languages, weddings and funerals in the Central Plains, we can see the shadow of Mongolian customs. (Recommended reading: reading notes: "Mongolian customs" in daily life in Ming Dynasty)

Women's Clothing in Yuan Dynasty

North Korea, as the "big nephew" of the Yuan Dynasty, once enforced the Mongolian lifestyle by decree. Therefore, the degree of "Hu Hua" in North Korea may exceed that in the Central Plains. According to "Koryo History Service", "It has been almost a hundred years since the incident."

1273, Zhongjun, who entered the Yuan Dynasty, returned to China, that is, "braided hair and Hu clothes";

1277, he ordered the promotion of Mongolian costumes and hairstyles in China. "Take away all the clothes on the territory and shave in public. Mongolian customs, shaving the top to the forehead, square its shape, stay in it, called shaving. From the prime minister to the next minister, they have all been shaved. "

The mural of the tomb of Park Yi-zhi, a bureaucrat in Yang Mi, Korea, shows the Mongolian customs in the later period of Korea.

In the 28th year of Zheng Zheng (1367), desperate Yuan Shundi fled to Yingchang mansion (Chifeng City, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region) with his concubine, the Crown Prince and the Princess of the Crown Prince. In August of the same year, the Ming army captured Dadu, and the rule of the Yuan Dynasty in the Central Plains completely ended.

Zhu Yuanzhang took the slogan of "restoring old China" to clean up all kinds of "Hu customs" in social life. In February, the first year of Hongwu (1368), a decree was issued that "the clothes were dressed like the Tang Dynasty" and "Hu Fu, Hu Yu and Hu surname were all forbidden". After 30 years of iterations, a set of "Daming Dress" system with the theme of "Don't be a China person, it's expensive and cheap" has basically taken shape.

In the Ming Dynasty, the sleeveless side collar dragon pattern and Shou Ziwen embroidery competed with each other.

With the decline of the strength of the Yuan Chamber of Commerce, anti-Yuan thoughts also appeared in Korea. For example, after Gong Wang (135 1- 1374 reigned) acceded to the throne, politically:

Actively expand territory to the northeast of the peninsula;

Cancel the provincial information office that collects taxes from the east;

Successfully eradicated the Han family of the strange queen of the Yuan Dynasty and weakened the interference of the Yuan Dynasty in internal affairs.

The prototype of King Koryo in the film Frost Flower Shop is King Gongcheng.

Culturally, South Korea also intends to "eliminate" the Mongolian style. He ordered the Pyongyang government to "build a shrine to worship" on the grounds that "Ji Zi was sealed here, enlightening the rites and music, and it has survived to this day", showing his admiration for the "costumes, rites and music" and "ancient country style" of the Tang Dynasty.

In addition, Gong Chengwang also complained about the old habit of "braiding hair and wearing Hu clothes" that has been passed down for nearly a hundred years. There is a private record of "untied hair" in Korean history books. "(Gongcheng) Wang Yuan system, braided hair khufu sitting on the temple. (Li) Yanzong (North Korean inspector) wanted to remonstrate ... and as soon as he entered the door, he said,' My late king didn't make the Hu suit. I hope your highness will not work. "Wang Yue, that is, untie the braided hair and give clothes and mattresses. "

King Gong and Princess Lu (Korea Palace Museum)

However, even if King Gongcheng has the ambition to restore the "first king system", he has not yet had the courage to let the people of the whole country "untie their braids". There are two reasons:

The "uncle-nephew relationship" between the Yuan Dynasty and North Korea was not completely broken, and the influence of the Yuan Dynasty should not be underestimated.

The internal pro-Yuan military attache is powerful and holds the military power, so it is impossible for Gong Wang to hide.

"Giving in Ming Dynasty" in Gongcheng King's Period

In September of the first year of Hongwu (1368), the news that the Ming army conquered Dadu was introduced to North Korea. Zheng Mengzhou (1337— 1392), a famous Confucian scholar, urged North Korea to formally establish a suzerain-vassal relationship with the Ming Dynasty.

Zheng Mengzhou (1337— 1392), a politician, diplomat, philosopher and writer at the end of Korea's Koryo dynasty, is known as the father of Korean Neo-Confucianism.

In the winter of the first year of Hongwu (1368), North Korea sent etiquette officer Zhang Ziwen to Jinling for an exchange, which was the first official exchange between the two sides. In April of the following year, the Ming Dynasty sent envoys to North Korea, officially announcing that the Ming Dynasty "pursued Jun Hu in the north, destroyed China and restored China's old frontier". In view of the fact that South Korea has been "eager for the wind of China", it "specially came to inform".

For the "enthusiasm" of the Ming Dynasty, Zhongjun was naturally "very famous". He immediately went to the table to celebrate Ming Taizu's "unification with Emperor China" and acknowledged the status of "China orthodoxy" in the Ming Dynasty. He also praised the Ming Dynasty for "the embarrassment of cultural relics and the arrogance of Chinese people". At this point, the two sides formally established a new "suzerain-vassal relationship."

As the only hunting map in Tianshan Mountain, it is regarded as the national treasure of South Korea.

A month later, Koryo sent an envoy to Jinling again. Besides congratulating Ming Taizu on his birthday, he also "invited his courtiers to pay attention" and "sacrificial clothing system". The Ming dynasty agreed to all these requirements. Not only the crown clothes required by Korea were issued, but also large musical instruments such as chimes and chimes revised in the Ming Dynasty, as well as classics such as Six Classics and Four Books, as well as general lessons.

Of course, the Ming dynasty was very happy with South Korea's "orientation". In his reply to King Gongcheng, Zhu Yuanzhang wrote: "I'm glad that the king wants to make laws to serve his temples" and persuaded King Gongcheng not to indulge in Buddhism (recommended reading: Reading Notes: Who fooled and mutilated Yuan Shundi in the Sixteen Magic Dances? What's the origin?

) ",it is necessary to" cultivate benevolence, righteousness, etiquette and music, and turn people into customs. "

Portrait of Ma Huanghou in Nanjing Ming Taizu, PPC (left), portrait of Ming Taizu in Jinghua (Shanghai) Auction Co., Ltd. (right)

According to "History of Korea" and "Travel Agency Records", the crown clothes granted to Korea in the Ming Dynasty include the sacrificial clothes of the king and his adjutant, the royal clothes of the court and the crown clothes of the princess. Officials' sacrificial clothes are divided into seven grades, and the specifications are "lower than those of China and North Korea (Ming Dynasty) and second class", that is, the first-class officials in North Korea are equivalent to the third-class officials in Ming Dynasty. This principle of clothing grade conversion was basically inherited by the Korean dynasty.

Korean monarchs and ministers in the film Frost Flower Shop

However, the crown dress given to Gongcheng king in Ming Dynasty was higher than that of the first-class prince of the county king. According to historical records, the Ming Dynasty * * * awarded two sets of crown clothes, namely, the sacrificial clothes for the King Gong (a crown) and the court clothes (a walking crown and a crimson gauze robe).

The emperor and his ministers should wear crowns reflecting their status when attending sacrifices and ceremonies. After the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, the coronation system was greatly revised, that is, only one kind of "crown" was retained.

The crowd wearing coronation clothes is limited to the royal family (emperor, prince, prince);

Ministers can only wear crowns when attending the ceremony, not crowns.

Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty crowned him.

The sacrificial clothing given to King Gong in Ming Dynasty was a crown that only the royal family could wear, not a coronet used by courtiers. According to the system of Ming dynasty, the crown is divided into two grades: the emperor crown twelve and twelve chapters, and the prince and the prince crown nine and nine chapters. The crown of King Gong Yu is nine chapters and nine sections, which is the same as that of princes in the Ming Dynasty.

The special specifications of the Ming dynasty prince who is comparable to Gong Wang are also reflected in the seal. The king seal of North Korea is the same as the prince seal of Ming Dynasty. Annan and Ryukyu, both vassals, painted gold and silver seals on camel buttons at the county level.

Murals of Gongcheng Cemetery Palace

As the travel crown of Gongcheng dynasty, its status is also very special. According to the system of the Ming Dynasty, Tian Tongguan (Twelve Beams) was the emperor's exclusive costume; Yuan You Crown is the same as Tian Tong Crown in appearance, but there is a slight difference in the number of beams (nine beams), which is the exclusive clothing of the Crown Prince. The king of Gongcheng was named "Seven Liang Yuan Xing", second only to the Crown Prince.

In addition, although the crown dress awarded to Princess Gongcheng in the Ming Dynasty was lower than that of her own princess, its decoration was unique to the royal family in the Ming Dynasty. Princess Gongcheng was crowned with seven halos and two phoenixes. Halo wind is the exclusive crown of the Ming Dynasty ladies, and the wife of the foreign minister is not allowed to wear it.

Generally speaking, in the Ming Dynasty system, korean king was close to the prince in rank, which reflected the special care for North Korea to some extent.

Portrait of King Gongcheng enshrined in Mapo Mingde Hall in Seoul

North Korean monarchs and ministers were overjoyed by the dresses and musical instruments given by the Ming Dynasty. After receiving the sacrificial clothes and musical instruments, King Gongcheng personally put on the coronation ceremony to worship the ancestral temple, and also appointed officials to re-examine the melody after the Ming Dynasty and established the music system. In the draft thank-you list, the famous civil servant Li Qi (1320- 1396) has "Dressing musical instruments, which shows that China is made in all directions; Classic history books, conscience is long.