Pure cotton fabric is comfortable to wear, soft, sweat-absorbent, easy to wrinkle, easy to deform, easy to dye or change color. High-quality fabrics should be at least pure cotton. As a person who really knows how to dress, you should know how to judge what kind of cotton fabric is really good. Good fabrics focus on the performance of various characteristics, such as wearing life, washing life, visual perception, wearing skin feeling and so on. Counting can only affect the characteristics of raw materials at most, and there are many indicators that affect the characteristics of raw materials, such as the number of shares and gram weight. It is confusing to measure the quality of fabric only by the number of counts. At present, many domestic direct selling shirts are made of Oxford fabric, which is closer to the Oxford fabric of fine jeans. It is a low-grade shirt fabric with low manufacturing cost and rough texture, which does not conform to the lifestyle of the upper class and the mainstream business concept. At the same time, according to European and American practices, high-grade cotton fabrics do not use non-ironing finishing technology. Non-ironing finishing is a kind of chemical treatment, which often changes the excellent skin-friendly characteristics of pure cotton fabrics and leaves harmful chemicals. Some of them can really be said to have the effect of non-ironing, and their fabrics have lost the elasticity and skin-friendly feeling of pure cotton, and the touch is close to that of chemical fiber fabrics.
Blended fabric
This kind of fabric is made of cotton and chemical fiber in a certain proportion. This kind of fabric not only absorbs the advantages of cotton and chemical fiber, but also avoids their disadvantages as much as possible. Most ordinary shirts are made of this fabric, which is hard and not as comfortable as pure cotton, and is not easy to deform, wrinkle, dye and change color. According to the different proportion of cotton and polyester, its characteristics are transferred to pure cotton or pure polyester. Blended fabrics are widely used in middle and low-grade shirts. Some blended fabrics have some functions, such as high elasticity, and also have special uses in high-grade shirts.
100% chemical fiber fabric
This is a fiber textile made of polymer. Their advantages are bright colors, soft texture, crisp drape, smoothness and comfort. Their disadvantages are poor wear resistance, heat resistance, hygroscopicity and air permeability, easy to deform when heated and easy to generate static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothes, the overall grade is not high and it is difficult to be elegant. As far as shirts are concerned, 100% chemical fiber fabric means cheap and low-grade. However, some kinds of chemical fiber fabrics have some unique characteristics, such as high elasticity, high air permeability and waterproof, high gloss and high wear resistance, so pure chemical fiber fabrics are also used in shirts for special purposes, such as performance clothes that need luster, dance clothes that need elasticity, outdoor clothes that need waterproof, etc.
Linen fabric
The aristocrats in shirt fabrics are comfortable, soft and sweat-absorbent, and are prone to wrinkling, deformation, dyeing or discoloration. Although we have seen petty bourgeoisie trying to exaggerate their pure cotton white shirts in many reading materials in recent years, don't be deceived by this. Anyone who knows how to wear a shirt should know that hemp is the best material for making a shirt. The natural air permeability, hygroscopicity and freshness of flax make it a freely breathing textile, which can reduce the indoor temperature of human body by 4-8℃ at room temperature, so it is called "natural air conditioner". Of course, hemp also has the defect that it is easy to wrinkle, and it will wrinkle after wearing it for dozens of minutes. In this regard, many celebrities have left many famous sayings about linen shirts. /kloc-Baolong, the most famous playboy in the 0/9th century? Beau Brummel said: If you have a lot of high-grade linen shirts, you must use country washing methods (fine linen, a lot of it, and country washing); And Julian, who was known as the best dressed man in Britain at that time? Pierre Palmer proudly said, "I send my shirts to Paris for washing every week." As for the writer r? t？ Sadia thinks, "As a gentleman, you must prepare two linen shirts every day."
wool
The fabric spun from pure wool is warm, thick and has good visual effect. But it is easy to wrinkle, deform, be eaten by insects and shrink. It is suggested that you buy a wool shirt in winter considering the warmth factor, because its care is more troublesome than linen and pure cotton.
lustring
Silk fabric is a kind of pure silkworm white woven silk fabric, which is recognized as the most luxurious fabric in the world. Naturally exudes beautiful luster, high-count silk fabric has always been the fabric of top luxury shirts. The traditional and expensive velvet fabric reinterprets the elegant and noble gentleman temperament. Silk fabrics are more aristocratic because of their complicated care and maintenance.
Shirt technology
At present, the most advanced shirt technologies in the world are pure cotton and CVC.
The international popular cotton non-ironing treatment methods can be roughly divided into three categories, namely: SSP (Super-Softpache Phase), HP and VP(VaporPhase).
When making clothes by SSP technology, the fabrics processed by SSP method are generally purchased, sewn and set by hot air within a specified period of time. This method is characterized by hot air setting, otherwise the effect is not good, and the wrinkle resistance of SSP is slightly worse than that of HP and VP. At the same time, the collocation of fabric and sewing thread is difficult to grasp, and the variety of fabric is also greatly limited.
HP process includes all the treatment processes of general cotton cloth and can be used for garment treatment. The weakness of HP technology shirt is that the fabric strength is seriously damaged and the original stiffness is reduced after twice dehydration and drying.
VP is the most advanced cotton non-ironing processing technology in the world. It fumigates all-cotton (Khmer) clothing with gases of various components, which leads to qualitative changes and stereotypes among cotton fiber molecules, thus achieving anti-wrinkle effect, and completely retaining the characteristics of cotton fiber-natural, soft to the touch, breathable, hygroscopic, easy to decontaminate, good color fastness, wear resistance and so on. It is a typical upgrade of non-ironing products. VP cotton non-ironing shirts are sold in major shopping malls and a few brand stores in Chengdu and Chongqing. Fashion people may wish to experience it for themselves. The price of each shirt is generally around 260 yuan.
CVC non-ironing shirt is a high-tech product, which is blended by high-count cotton and polyester through high-tech means. It has both the advantages of cotton and the specialty of polyester. CVC non-ironing shirts are soft, smooth, breathable and comfortable to wear. Good elasticity, high strength, not easy to deform, easy to wash, bright color, shrink-proof and wrinkle-resistant ironing.
Special fabric
(1) Non-ironing fabric
Cotton non-ironing technology is a high-tech in 2 1 century, which is mainly divided into two processes: liquid ammonia finishing and resin finishing. So what is the non-ironing mechanism? As we all know, the molecules of cotton fiber are in disorder and there is no stationary phase. When cotton fabric is subjected to water molecules and external forces, macromolecular chains slide relatively, resulting in so-called unrecoverable deformation under the action of external forces, which makes cotton fabric wrinkle macroscopically. If cross-linked networks can be formed between cotton fiber macromolecules, then under the action of external force or water molecules, there will be no relative slip, that is, no wrinkling. The way to promote the cross-linking network between macromolecules is to make cross-linking between resin molecules and cotton fiber molecules based on resin finishing, so as to achieve the deformation recovery performance of cotton fiber. After cotton fiber is made into clothes, it can be ironed without wrinkling after washing. This finishing resin usually uses formaldehyde resin or modified 2D resin with low formaldehyde. When preparing resin finishing liquid, besides in addition to formaldehyde or 2D resin, various additives such as catalyst, softener and lubricant should be added. So as to improve the feel and comfort of the fabric.
Therefore, high-cotton non-ironing shirts are popular high-grade shirts at home and abroad. Because of the non-ironing finishing, the shirt is flat, washable and wrinkle-free (so-called shape stability), which improves the grade and added value of the shirt. (2) Anti-fouling and waterproof fabric.
(2) Special fabrics
Through various chemical treatments, such as antistatic treatment, hydrophilic treatment, low surface treatment and nanotechnology, the fabric has antifouling or waterproof functions.
(3) health care fabric
In recent years, with the increasing pursuit of comfort, hygiene and environmental protection by consumers, it has brought opportunities for the development of health care fabrics.
At present, some countries focus on developing health fabrics with antibacterial, mite-proof, wrinkle-resistant and ultraviolet-proof functions. The commonly used technology is micro-air membrane technology, which wraps one or several active products in particle capsules and weaves them into the fibers of clothing to make health-care clothing. Some capsules woven into fabric fibers will burst when they touch the skin, but they will emit fragrance, insect repellent and antibacterial agent. And play its health care role.
At present, some textile research institutes and textile manufacturers have made use of microcapsule technology to produce fragrant maid underwear, such as ties without sweat spots, socks that can deodorize, jackets with adjustable temperature, sweat-removing socks, slimming underwear and sheets soaked with sleeping pills. And promoted to be a clothing material that can treat diseases. For example, Australia has produced clothes that can filter sunlight, France has produced anti-ultraviolet T-shirts, France has produced fashion that can prevent insects from eating, and Japan has produced antibacterial underwear.
(4) Metal cotton shirts
This is a new type of warm clothing, which caters to the trend of light and warm clothing in winter. Wearing metallic cotton shirts and suits in winter is particularly chic.
The so-called metal wool is a kind of warm chemical fiber flocking, with a layer of report metal film on the surface, which plays a role in keeping warm and insulating. The metal cotton shirt is deliberately innovated in structure and completely separated, that is, the shirt and the liner can be completely separated. If they are dirty, just "completely remove" the shirt and clean it, and then "put it back on" after washing, while "semi-detached" can change the collar and sleeves, and the trunk part of the shirt cannot be cleaned.
(5) Far infrared warm shirt
The warm shirt is made of horse fiber, far infrared warm fiber and wool. In the production design, the three kinds of fibers are organically combined, and the warm and health care function of far infrared rays and the moisture absorption performance of hemp fiber are fully utilized to stimulate the activity of water molecules in human skin, promote human microcirculation, and exchange blood for bait to generate heat. The permeability and antibacterial property of hemp fiber are used to avoid the electrostatic feeling of fabric.
Hemp fabric has certain winter maintenance and health care functions. People will feel comfortable in this shirt, and there is no static interference. At room temperature, far-infrared fibers absorb the heat emitted by the surrounding environment of human body, radiate back to the infrared light waves most needed by human body, and penetrate deep into subcutaneous tissue to produce thermal effects.
The origin of the name
Shirts are also called shirts or undershirts. From the semantic point of view, "lining" refers to the inner and inner layers, and "shirt" refers to a single coat.
China ancient shirt refers to sleeveless shirt, also called half-dress, which is a kind of coat. Most of them are women's clothes, and men also wear them. Generally speaking, they are made of light and soft cloth. Ancient shirts can be divided into "single clothes" and "cloth clothes" according to their grades, and imperial shirts are generally "single clothes". According to the Book of Rites, "single shirt" was used in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties. According to historical legend, Emperor Gaozu attacked Xiang Yu and found that sweat drenched him when he returned to camp. From then on, "Zhong Dan" was renamed as "undershirt". Cloth shirt is a kind of short coat worn by ordinary people in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, women had Tang dresses embroidered with group patterns, while men had long shirts, short shirts and soapy shirts. In the Song Dynasty, undershirts were made of silk, satin, yarn, silk and other raw materials. Modern China undershirts are rarely worn, and their styles are inherited from ancient forms.
The shirts we are talking about now mainly refer to the specific clothes of men and women in western-style clothes. They were formed in the middle of19th century to match the jacket without tail, which is the predecessor of today's suits. Their shapes are simple and unadorned, and the collars that stand high are folded down, forming the characteristics of today's shirts. Up to now, many styles have been formed, which are worn by the modern south as a matching variety of orthodox dresses or suits. Much like the traditional undershirt in China, but the style, shape and structure are very different.
What do you think of workmanship?
Shirts are very important clothes for men, but many people don't understand the difference between good shirts and bad shirts. People often say, "A shirt is a shirt, nothing special". There are also many people who choose shirts according to their fame. In fact, the V-shaped area on the chest can best reflect the taste of men's clothes, so the choice of shirts should not be sloppy. Moreover, shirts are close-fitting clothes, and the quality of shirts gives people different feelings.
So, how to tell the difference between a shirt and a shirt? First of all, most excellent shirts are made of high count cotton. They are characterized by mercerizing and pre-shrinking finishing processes, which will not shrink and deform, and are firm, soft and delicate, and comfortable to wear.
The thread used for sewing shirts should also be compatible with the fabric, and ironing at a high temperature will not melt. At the same time, high-grade shirts are sewn with single needle and covered with keel, with 22 stitches per inch, which is twice as much as ordinary shirts, and core-covered thread is adopted. You may not feel anything at first, but after a long time, you will realize these intentions, and the toughness and wear resistance of the shirt will be greatly enhanced and the shirt will be more durable.
As a dress shirt, what we need is a strong collar. This is difficult to do by the texture of the fabric itself, so we need an additional auxiliary accessory-the collar. Yes, if you touch your collar carefully, do you see a long, tapering lump inside? That's a neck brace, usually made of plastic sheets. For top-quality shirts, the collar support should be detachable, because although the collar support can help shape the straight collar, it will also cause unnecessary wear when washing and ironing. If it is detachable, the above problems can be avoided.
The buttons of the shirt are also exquisite, the thickness should be between 1.8 and 2 mm, and they are curved. Some high-end shirts also use Australian pearl shells as buttons, which are sewn on the shirts with double needles, which are firm and wear-resistant, and can maintain exquisite beauty and luster for a long time. The advanced button door (that is, the button hole) of the shirt should be sewn by hand, which is softer than that sewn by machine. In order to ensure the quality, high-grade shirts will also sew buttons with twice as many button needles as ordinary shirts.
Single needle sewing: To join two pieces of cloth together, there is no doubt that needles and threads are needed. A good shirt will use a technique called single needle sewing, in which the front is sewed once and the back is sewed again in the same position, so that it looks like there is only one sewing thread. For shirts that are not very particular, it will be easier to sew two stitches at the same time, so there will be two sewing threads. The disadvantage of the latter is that once washed, the fabric between the two sewing threads will wrinkle due to shrinkage, which will affect the appearance of the shirt.
Wrapped keel: the so-called wrapped keel, also known as stitching. For those shirts with slits at the bottom, slits should be avoided in order to enhance their durability.