After using SLR for a period of time, many people are faced with trying to shoot in manual mode. Manual shooting seems to be about adjusting parameters, but it is actually a kind of technical mastery. So what are the skills for shooting with SLR at night? What? You may wish to take a look at the SLR night shooting tips I recommend, I hope it will be helpful to you!
1. Settings
1. Picture calibration:
Generally, you can use "Standard". It is recommended to adjust the sharpness of "Standard" to 3, contrast to 1, and saturation to 1. This can make the photo "sharper". Sharp is recommended when taking portraits. Adjust the brightness to 4, and it is recommended to adjust the sharpness to 7 for landscapes.
2.D-Lighting:
Close It is recommended to use high dynamic HDR in a large light ratio environment. Take multiple photos with different exposures and then synthesize them. The effect is much better. , but color distortion may occur.
3. M file:
If you are traveling or need to capture photos at any time, try not to use M file and use A file instead, because A file is aperture priority. , just adjust the aperture, the machine will automatically adjust the shutter speed to achieve Ev balance, so that the photos will rarely be under or over blown.
4. Metering:
Under normal circumstances, you can use range or central evaluation metering during the day, and it is best to use spot metering at night.
5.ISO:
The larger this value is, the faster the shutter will be. If the ISO is doubled, the shutter will be twice as fast. However, the noise will increase. 400 during the day, 1600-and above indoors, and 6400 at night will not be a big problem. Noise control is still very good!
6. Aperture:
The larger this value is, the smaller the aperture is. The larger the aperture is, it means that more light can reach the cmos, and more light can be obtained. For a fast shutter, if the aperture is twice as large, the shutter will also be twice as fast. At the same time, a large aperture will result in a shallow depth of field, which means the background will be blurred more severely. In addition, the definition of aperture is calculated based on the human eye being 1.0. Generally speaking, when shooting landscapes, the aperture should be between f8-f11, and the close-up should be around f4.
7. Focal length:
The smaller the focal length, the larger the scene captured, and vice versa. At the same time, as the focal length increases, the depth of field becomes smaller and the background becomes easier to blur.
2. Tips
1. Take close-ups of small stationary things, such as flowers, birds, and insects: use A mode, the aperture is best at f5.6 or below, and the focal length is best Above 50, try to shoot within 1m to blur the background! If the light is good, the ISO is 100. If the light is bad, the ISO is preferably within 400.
2． Photographing people: Basically, use a larger aperture (within f5.6) and a focal length of more than 50mm. The shooting distance depends on the whole body, half body, and headshot. To blur the background, use A mode! Good light, ISO100, bad light, ISO400 or less.
3． Shooting scenery: A mode, use an appropriate aperture, f8 or above, the focal length is arbitrary, but generally there is distortion at the wide-angle end, use it as appropriate.
4． To shoot night scenes: Use a tripod, M mode, custom white balance or incandescent light, aperture above f8, a small aperture can make the light appear like stars; within iso200, try to lengthen the exposure time, so that some people who walk by unintentionally can be People disappear from the picture, leaving no trace and purifying the scene.
5． Shooting fireworks: Use a shutter release, B shutter, and long exposure to create the effect of multiple overlapping fireworks.
6． Shooting moving things: When the light is good: A setting, the aperture size should be adjusted accordingly; use an aperture above f8 to get a large depth of field effect, use a small aperture to get a shallow depth of field effect;
If you want to shoot something very dynamic For the effect, you can use S mode, shutter speed is about 1/30, focus and press the shutter at the same time, the lens will follow the subject at a suitable speed, which will produce a very dynamic effect.
In the case of poor lighting: you can only deal with it as appropriate, and use tracking shots.
7． To take pictures of flowing water or fountains: Use S mode and a shutter speed of about 1/50 to get a satin effect. Use a faster shutter to get a water droplet effect!
8． Portraits at night: Get on a tripod, adjust the white balance, automatic or custom white balance; iso100-400; A gear, aperture around f8, use slow sync flash, rear curtain flash mode; at this time, the flash will flash twice, press The shutter will flash once, and it will flash again before the exposure is over, so people should not leave before it flashes twice. This way the characters will be clear and the background neon will be beautiful, without the background being underexposed and too dark.
9. Aperture priority tips:
1) No matter what you shoot, unless you want to maintain a safe shutter speed, don’t shoot at the maximum aperture.
2) When shooting landscapes, please try to use an aperture of F8-F11.
3) When taking close-ups of people and still life, you can use the maximum aperture to stop down by 1-2 stops.
4) Please try to control the safety shutter to be above the reciprocal of the focal length. The wide-angle end shutter should also be above 1/30 second for safety. If the shutter speed is insufficient, please increase the aperture or ISO.
10． Metering method:
1) Don’t point the meter at the sky or the darkest place. Try to capture the middle value.
2) Make good use of the metering mode (weighted metering, spot metering, center-weighted metering...) according to the subject you are shooting.
3) If you encounter inaccurate metering, please lock the exposure of the gray things around you before shooting.
4) Try not to meter white or black objects, otherwise please remember to subtract EV for black and add EV for white. EV means exposure compensation. Exposure compensation is also a method of exposure control. It is generally around ±2-3EV. If the ambient light source is dark, the exposure value can be increased (such as adjusted to 1EV or 2EV) to highlight the clarity of the picture.
When the shooting environment is dark and the brightness needs to be increased, but the flash cannot work, the exposure can be compensated and the exposure appropriately increased. When performing exposure compensation, if the photo is too dark, increase the EV value. Each increase of 1.0 in the EV value is equivalent to doubling the amount of light taken in. If the photo is too bright, reduce the EV value. Each decrease in the EV value by 1.0 , which is equivalent to doubling the amount of light taken in.
When the white object being photographed looks gray or not white enough in the photo, you need to increase the exposure. Simply put, "the whiter, the more." This seems to be in line with the basic principles and habits of exposure. It's the opposite, but it's not. This is because the camera's metering often focuses on the subject in the center. The white subject will make the camera mistakenly think that the environment is very bright, so it will be underexposed. This is also a common mistake that most beginners make.
Since the shutter time or aperture size of the camera is limited, it is not always possible to reach the 2EV adjustment range. Therefore, exposure compensation is not omnipotent. It may still be underexposed in an environment that is too dark. This is You should consider using a flash or increasing the ISO sensitivity of the camera to increase the brightness of the picture. Generally speaking, the smaller the brightness contrast of the scene, the more accurate the exposure, and vice versa, the deviation will increase.
In short, the adjustment of exposure compensation is determined by experience and sensitivity to color. Users must compare the picture quality, clarity, restoration and noise size under different exposure compensations in order to Take the best pictures possible.
11. There is a basic principle. If it is not equipped with a special high-end sensor, all noise reduction achieved by software will be at the expense of detail.
There is no doubt that the lower the sensitivity, the better the image quality. When the speed and aperture allow, try to use a low sensitivity. This is the basic requirement for taking good photos. Although the D5100 has the most powerful high-sensitivity among entry-level SLRs, don’t set it too high easily. There are only two situations where it is more reasonable to use a high-sensitivity setting, one is handheld shooting of night scenes, and the second is shooting dynamic scenes in low light.
Pay special attention to image quality, generally use ISO100-400, the difference in image quality between ISO100, 200, and 400 is very small; in order to prevent smearing, generally use ISO800-3200; ISO64 million can also be used as a last resort, ISO12800 image quality has a sudden deterioration than 6400, and in the end Better never use it.
12． When using the standard lens, pay attention to the focal length and aperture selection.
The 18-55 lens has two obvious shortcomings: the wide-angle end has poor sharpness at large apertures, and the telephoto end has better sharpness, but it is worse than the middle focal length. When using it, try not to use both ends, but since the wide angle is only 18mm and it has to be used, then when the focal length is 18mm, you need to close the aperture, usually above F8, and try to avoid the telephoto end of 55mm, and use 40mm. . There is a wise saying - F8 has no dog head. By the way, the 18-105mm lens. The 18-105 lens is much sharper than the 18-55 lens and is worth choosing. However, the biggest problem is that the wide-angle distortion is too large, so it is best used for shooting portraits and natural scenery. When shooting buildings, the best focal length is around 24mm ( minimal distortion). The pincushion distortion at the telephoto end of this lens is relatively not obvious, so you can use it with confidence.
13. Lock focus is often used in portrait shooting
When shooting portraits, you must focus on the person's eyes. You can focus first, then lock the focus and then compose the picture, so that the composition is not limited by the focus point.