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Travel to Tiger Hill

At 4 o'clock in the afternoon, I took Tour 1 from Suzhou Liuyuan Garden to Tiger Hill and entered the Tiger Hill Scenic Area from the north gate. (Actually, it is better to enter from the south gate. You can see the archway, Toushan Gate and Ershan Gate of Huqiu in sequence)

Huqiu Mountain, formerly known as Haiyong Mountain, is said to have been the palace of King Wu Helu during the Spring and Autumn Period. location. "Historical Records" records that after King Helu of Wu died, his son Fucha buried him here. Three days after the burial, a white tiger squatted on it, hence the name. (Another theory is that Tiger Hill got its name because it resembles a crouching tiger.)

Tiger Hill became a famous Buddhist mountain and tourist attraction from the imperial mausoleum to the Six Dynasties. When Bai Juyi became the governor of Suzhou in the Tang Dynasty, he led the people of Suzhou to dig rivers and canals from Changmen to Huqiu, and to dig canals around the mountains to divert water. From then on, Shantang Street (Baigongdi) and Shantang River, known as the "Qili Shantang", became the only way from Suzhou to Huqiu. In the Northern Song Dynasty, the magistrate of Suzhou changed the name of Huqiu Mountain Temple to Yunyan Temple, and the pagoda was renamed "Yunyan Temple Pagoda".

Tiger Hill covers an area of ??only more than 300 acres, and the mountain is only more than 30 meters high, but it has the style of "the hills and ravines on the left of the river", with towering rocks and ravines, various weather conditions, and three unique features. Eighteen scenic spots. Su Dongpo's famous saying "It would be a pity not to visit Tiger Hill in Suzhou" has made Tiger Hill a symbol of Suzhou and a must-visit place.

Soon after entering from the north gate, you will see a hall with a plaque "Wu Tianpenglang" hanging on it. There is a big stone on the mountain road with the word "Huqiu" engraved on it. In front of it, the Tiger Hill Pagoda (also known as the Yunyan Temple Pagoda) can be seen among the green trees on the top of the mountain. Walk along the steps and cross a newly built three-hole stone bridge over the river. There is a carriage available at the intersection of the mountain road. (I couldn't figure out the route at that time and missed the "Sun Wu Temple" on the west side of the north gate and the "Yi Pavilion" and "Yue Pavilion" on the east side.)

Walking further up, there is There is an archway with three gates and four pillars, named "Xiao Wudang", with a plaque on it "Wu Fen Chu Sheng", which is said to mean "in Wu, you can share Wudang Mountain, a famous scenic spot in Chu State at that time".

Climbing up the stairs, I passed two palaces (Tongyouxuan and Yulan Study Room) that were being repaired with nets. The mountain gradually became steeper. I had to carefully walk the stone steps under my feet and did not dare to look around anymore. Wait and see. Later I learned that this place is the "eighteen folds" of the mountain behind Tiger Hill. No wonder it is spiraling and steep.

Climbing to the top is the small square where the Huqiu Pagoda (Yunyan Temple Pagoda) is located. Tiger Hill Tower is the symbol of Suzhou. There are towering old trees in the square, which is quiet and cool, but it is surrounded by tall trees and cannot be seen in the distance. The Tiger Hill Pagoda is simple and majestic, standing majestically. Using the short wall at the base of the tower as a reference, tourists can clearly see that the door openings on the first floor (the seventh floor) of the tower are higher than the wall at different heights, which means that the tower body tilts to the northeast, but this ancient tower has never It has been standing for thousands of years without falling down, so it is called the "Leaning Tower of Pisa" in China. (The tower is now 48 meters high. It is a seven-story brick tower with an octagonal imitation wood structure and a pavilion style. It is the only existing multi-story building in the south of the Yangtze River that was built in the Five Dynasties. The waist eaves, flat seats, hook rails, etc. are all made of bricks, and the outer eaves and brackets are made of bricks. It is a wooden hybrid structure. The axis of the tower top now tilts to the north-east by about 2.34 meters. According to experts, because the foundation rock of the tower is on the mountain slope and the thickness of the fill varies, the tower has tilted to the northeast before it was completed.) p>

There is a small door in the southwest corner of the square with the inscription "Skylight and Cloud Shadow" written on it. Go through the small gate and come to "Zhishuang Pavilion". This is the commanding height of Huqiu Mountain. You can see the tall buildings in the city as far as the eye can see. Zhishuang Pavilion was originally named "Haiyong Pavilion". It was completed in late autumn. Visitors were blown by the autumn wind and felt refreshed, so it was renamed "Zhishuang Pavilion" (you can go west to "Yunzai Tea Fragrance").

Going east from Zhishuang Pavilion, you will reach "Shuangjing Bridge". The "Shuangjing Bridge" is built on the Jianchi. There are two wells on the bridge. The monks used these two wells to draw water from the Jianchi. It is said that Fu Chai once accompanied Xi Shi to look in the mirror here, so these two wells are also called "Couple's Well" or "Mandarin Duck Well".

Looking down at Jianchi from the "Shuangjing Bridge", it feels particularly steep and thrilling. There are many cliff stone carvings engraved on the wall of Jianchi, among which "Fenggulyunquan" and "Jianchi" are the most eye-catching and famous. The former is said to have been written by Mi Fu of the Song Dynasty, and the latter is said to have been written by Wang Xizhi of the Jin Dynasty.

Exit the Moon Cave Gate of "Bieyou Cave", which is the "Two Immortals Pavilion". Erxian Pavilion is built entirely of granite, also known as "Stone Pavilion". It was first built in the Song Dynasty. The existing pavilion was rebuilt during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty.

There are two stone tablets erected in the pavilion, with portraits of Taoist gods Lu Dongbin and Chen Tuan respectively. It is said that two gods once played chess in the pavilion. A woodcutter passing by carrying firewood stopped to watch the game. He returned to the village before the game was finished, only to find that "a day in the mountains means a thousand years in the world."

On the west side of Erxian Pavilion is Huqiu's iconic stone carving "Huqiu Sword Pool". (It was originally written by Yan Kai, the son of Yan Zhenqing in the Tang Dynasty. At that time, in order to avoid the name taboo of Li Hu, the father of Li Yuan, the founder of the Tang Dynasty, the character "tiger" was deliberately written as "五". After the Tang Dynasty, someone changed the character "五" back to "五". "Tiger". According to records in "Mountain Chronicles" and other books, "Huqiu Sword Pool" was originally written by Yan Zhenqing, a great calligrapher of the Tang Dynasty. Later, due to age, the stone surface was eroded by wind and frost, and the word "Huqiu" was lost and lost. Ming Dynasty During the Wanli period, a famous Suzhou stone carver named Zhang Zhongyu copied and re-engraved it as it was. No matter which way you say it, in the eyes of future generations, the word "Huqiu" is not as well written and as beautiful as "Jianchi". Therefore, there is a saying of "Fake Tiger Hill and Real Sword Pond". ?

On the stone wall on the east side of Erxian Pavilion, there are stone carvings such as "Thousand People Sitting", "Shenggong Lecture Hall" and "Ke Zhong Pavilion". The "shenggong" here is Zhu Daosheng, an eminent monk in the Jin Dynasty. According to legend, Zhu Daosheng once lectured here, which was very popular and had an audience of over a thousand people.

"Thousands of People Stone", also known as "Thousands of People Sitting", is a huge natural rock with a sedimentary rock structure. According to "Wu Di Ji", "There is a stone beside the pool (sword pool) that can seat a thousand people, so it is called 'Thousand People Stone'." (It is also said that after the tomb of King Wu Helu was built, his son Fucha came up with a poisonous plan. He invited more than a thousand craftsmen to drink and watch the crane dance. When they were drunk late at night, he ordered people to kill more than a thousand craftsmen. It is said that the blood of the craftsmen dyed the stones red every time it rained or fell. It is particularly red on a cloudy day, as if blood is flowing down.)

But there is also a story in the middle pavilion. There are couplets on both sides of the pavilion, "Listen to the scriptures on a stone, and have a tacit understanding of Zen; Swords are buried in famous mountains, and historical sites will remain forever." It points out the matter of Sheng Gong giving lectures on scriptures and hiding swords in the sword pond. (It is also said that Emperor Wen of the Song Dynasty in the Southern Dynasty once gathered monks to eat in Huqiu but it was already past noon. According to Buddhist precepts, they could not eat. The monks were very embarrassed. When Emperor Wen of the Song Dynasty saw this, he said: "You can only listen to your ears." This means that it is just noon. The emperor said so, and the monks began to enjoy the meal. This is how "Ke Zhong Pavilion" got its name. There is a stone standing in the center of the pool with "nod" engraved on it. It is said that Zhu Daosheng's lectures not only impressed the believers, but also made the stubborn stone in the pond nod frequently. It was a severe winter, but the white lotuses in the pool were blooming one after another, and the water was full. Therefore, there is a saying that "the water in the pool is full when you are born, and the water is empty when you are gone", and "the master preaches the sermon, the stubborn stone nods, and the white lotus blossoms".

Climbing up the steps along the "Fifty-Three Ginseng" beside the White Lotus Pond is the Main Hall. (It is said that a talented boy was determined to become a Buddha, but he failed to worship 52 masters. After being enlightened by Mantra Bodhisattva, he worshiped Guanyin Bodhisattva as the 53rd master and finally became a Buddha.) It is said that no matter where you walk, " "Fifty-three ginseng" steps, you can look back and see Guanyin Bodhisattva in the middle. Therefore, there is a saying that "Fifty-three ginseng, refer to the Buddha".

There are many scenic spots around the Main Hall. To the west of the hall, you can go to Wu Shixuan, which has a "Hai Yong Lan Fu" round cave door, leading to the small square of Huqiu Tower. In the southeast corner of the hall is the "Five Sages Hall" (the five sages Liu Yuxi, Bai Juyi, Wei Yingwu in the Tang Dynasty and Wang Yuzhen and Su Shi in the Song Dynasty), and there is the "Imperial Stele Hall" in the northwest. To the east of the "Royal Stele Pavilion", you can reach "Qianqingyun" (named after Su Dongpo's poem in the Song Dynasty, "Clouds and water are beautiful for thousands of hectares". There is a couplet that says, "The wavelength first crosses the moon, and the mountain beauty generates clouds by itself"). There are also "Wanjia Fireworks" nearby (there are couplets on the Qili Old Pond: Several generations spent the night hanging out with poems and wine; the moonlight was bright and the lights of Wanjia were full of music during the third night.), "Xiaowu Xuan", "Wangsu Terrace" "(The pavilion here can overlook the old city of Suzhou) and "Pingyuan Terrace" and other scenic spots are exquisite and full of meaning.

Finally, I went up from the White Lotus Pond to the "Sun Wu Zi Pavilion" next to it. The idiom "three orders and five orders" comes from this. (According to legend, when Sun Wu first came to the Kingdom of Wu, he was introduced by Wu Zixu and presented the thirteen articles on the Art of War to King Helu of Wu. King Wu was very happy after reading it and ordered him to test the art of war in the harem. Sun Wu divided the palace ladies into two teams and sat on the Thousand People Stone. Drills were conducted, with Helu's two concubines serving as captains. However, the palace ladies regarded military training as a game, and Sun Wu reiterated military discipline.

Time was very tight, and when we were preparing to install the beams, we discovered that the large timber originally intended to be used as the beams had been sawed into two pieces as the top beams. The deadline was approaching and no other wood could be found. The old carpenter Sai Luban got the artist's guidance and used this ingenious construction to finally complete the work as scheduled. )

On the road around Huqiu, I went west to "Xixi Huancui". There is a place where "drunk flowers sit on the moon", with green bamboos and green leaves, which means beauty and elegance.

To go out from the south gate, you have to pass the "Haichong Bridge". Haiyong Bridge is a single-arch stone bridge built in 1956. The Huanshan River flows under the bridge. (There are 12 lifelike stone lion cubs with different postures on the bridge railings. Some people say they are comparable to the lions on the Marco Polo Bridge.)

At around 7 o'clock, I came out of Tiger Hill and saw it outside the south gate. The gate tower and plaque of "The First Mountain in Wuzhong". Tiger Hill, the real number one attraction in Wuzhong!

? 2017.8