A homing pigeon lover has to feed pigeons and fly them every day, and clean the pigeon house every day, which has become a compulsory course every day. It's no use talking more. Although it is very hard, you can also get endless fun from it. In addition to daily management, there are some special requirements for changes in spring, summer, autumn and winter, which are introduced as follows.

(1) Four Seasons Management

Spring: Spring is the period of biological germination. Pigeonhouses should be disinfected once, and the surrounding areas should be washed with lime water. Doors and windows should be repaired and painted to prevent insects from eating. Check entrances and exits and various facilities, and clean joints and corners with hot water and detergent.

Spring is also the peak season for brooding, training and flying. It is best to bug the pigeons in the whole shed in early spring. The method is to take half a tablet (0.3 mg) of thiapyrimidine every day and feed each pigeon (excluding young pigeons) at night. The parasites in pigeons have an incubation period of about 7 days, so you should take the medicine again in the same way after one week. After taking this medicine twice; General parasites can be removed.

Summer: There is much rain in summer, and bacteria and insects are easy to breed. Moistureproof pigeon house is a key point in management. Especially the floor shed, we should pay more attention to keep it dry. When the relative humidity is high, feces are easy to ferment and give off malodorous gas, which is extremely unfavorable to pigeon health. Therefore, sheds must be cleaned more frequently and thoroughly than usual. At the same time, expose the reserve feed to the sun, dry it and tie it tightly with a plastic bag. It is best to put some garlic in it. When midsummer comes, dovecotes should prevent heatstroke and cool down. In poor pigeon houses, umbrellas should be covered in the hot afternoon sun.

Autumn: Mosquitoes are rampant in autumn, so we should drive them away seriously to prevent pigeon disease. If there is water around the pigeon house, it should be removed in time to prevent mosquitoes from breeding. You can spray some mosquito repellent that is harmless to pigeons, such as "Mihailing". Some pigeon fanciers point mosquito-repellent incense in the pigeon house, which also has certain effect, but we must pay attention to safety.

Autumn is the annual molting period of pigeons, so it is necessary to adjust the feed ratio properly, increase some mineral feed and supplement enough nutrition to make up for excessive consumption and promote normal molting. Check the pigeon house and remove nails, thorns or other obstacles in time to prevent the pigeon's newborn feathers from being damaged.

Autumn is also a season with more competitions, so it is necessary to carefully select pigeons, strengthen nursing and make good preparations before the competition.

Winter: Pigeons often have "red nose bubbles" in winter, indicating that they are easy to catch a cold in winter. The reason is that the cold weather consumes more calories than usual and the disease resistance is weakened. Sometimes a pigeon's cold will spread all over the shed quickly, which must not be ignored. It is necessary to add some foods rich in fat, such as peanuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed and sunflower seeds, but not too much. As a staple food, corn is still needed.

The piggery should strengthen warm-keeping measures, especially at night, the windows should be closed tightly and the barbed wire doors should be hung with curtains. Doors and windows hinges should be oiled to prevent rust after long-term closure and damage in the next spring.

The amount of exercise in winter should be relatively reduced. In addition to regular training and flying around the shed every day, all short-distance training and competitions should be stopped to avoid excessive consumption of pigeon body heat. In Belgium and the Netherlands, some pigeon farmers are grounded at home in winter, and pigeons can only bask in the sun in the sports ground. Some of our pigeon lovers believe in the saying,' Practice for 39 days in winter and 3 days in summer'.

In addition, attention should be paid to the removal of coccidia and trichomonads in the management of homing pigeons. Coccidiosis and trichomoniasis lurk in almost every pigeon, and it is difficult to completely eliminate them. Generally speaking, trichomonads are killed once a month and coccidia are killed once every two or three months.

(2) Four-stage management During the growth of pigeons, there are several special periods of physiological changes, namely, pairing period, incubation period, brooding period and molting period, which need special care of pigeon breeders.

Timing: Pay special attention to the nutrition of the selected breeding pigeons. Protein-rich beans should be added two weeks before pairing, and 0.05 mg erythromycin can be dissolved in drinking water after pairing, which can not only improve the hatching rate, but also reduce the death of young pigeons. In addition, feeding more calcium-rich bone powder, clam shell powder and eggshell powder is also beneficial to improve the quality of eggs.

Pigeon breeders who have many pigeons should number the nests where the newly paired breeding pigeons live so that they can remember them. It is best to close the nest with fences or barbed wire doors, which is convenient for pigeons to get familiar with their new homes and prevent them from causing fights.

Incubation period: Some breeding pigeons, especially young pigeons laying eggs for the first time, have a weak sense of responsibility during the incubation period, crouching or even flying away from the nest to move freely, which is easy to cool the eggs. In this case, the male pigeon and the female pigeon should be kept in the nest together, or according to the division of labor between the male pigeon and the female pigeon, the male pigeon should be kept in the nest from 10 to 4 pm, and the female pigeon should be kept in the nest from 4 pm to the next morning 10, and the nest should be covered with dark cloth. After a few days, when they feel at ease, they can remove the cover.

On the 4th-7th day of incubation, the eggs should be placed in light to check whether there are any sperm, and if there are no sperm, they should be taken out in time. Take another photo on the day of 10- 13 to see if there is a stillbirth. Generally, eggs can be seen on 15- 16 days. At this time, we should pay special attention to whether the young pigeons can "stand out" by themselves. Anything that hasn't hatched after 18 days is generally hopeless. Matters needing attention in brooding will be discussed later.

Breeding pigeons in the incubation period should have a peaceful environment and don't disturb them casually. Training flights can be carried out as usual, with male pigeons in the morning and female pigeons in the afternoon. Male pigeons and female pigeons take turns incubating eggs and training to fly. If one feather flies during the incubation period, the other feather has no intention of hatching again, so it is better to collect eggs as soon as possible.

Brooding period: 2-4 hours after the young pigeon hatches, the breeding pigeon begins to feed it. If breeding pigeons don't feed after 5-6 hours, there may be two reasons. First, pigeon breeding has no experience for the first time. Although they have latent instinct, they still need to be induced. You can gently put the young pigeon's mouth on the mother pigeon's mouth, and the mother pigeon will soon open her mouth and vomit. You must do it yourself. Others do it for you, which will lead to misunderstanding of pigeons. It will protect its baby with violence. Second, the parent pigeon may get sick, so it must be isolated and treated in time. The young pigeon should find a righteous pigeon to vomit. Pay attention to the pigeon you are looking for. Its original child must be about the same age as the little pigeon it feeds.

Some pigeons have been hatched for 16- 18 days, and they are going to lay eggs again. In order to ensure the health of pigeons, it is usually necessary to find another pigeon to hatch. If you find a suitable homing pigeon, you should increase the nutrition of the parent pigeon and wean the young pigeon early. Because when female pigeons hatch this kind of "sandwich egg", they often don't spit out their young pigeons. In this way, the task of vomiting young pigeons falls on the male pigeon. If you want to spit two feathers, it will not only be harmful to the health of the male pigeon, but also affect the development of the young pigeon.

Pigeons grow to 50-80 days old, which is called "death climax" and has the highest incidence. In addition to careful management, effective drugs should be used alternately to ensure that young pigeons can tide over the difficulties and grow healthily.

Molting period: In early autumn every year, adult pigeons begin to molt for 50-60 days. After molting, you will take part in the autumn competition. So in order to compete, it is necessary to shorten the molting period as much as possible. One way is to deliberately reduce the feed quality at the beginning of molting, such as feeding only corn and barley, or even cutting off water for a day, so that pigeons will shed their hair faster. In the late molting stage, some fat-rich feeds such as sesame seeds and rapeseed are added to promote the growth of new feathers. As soon as the new feathers grow, it is better to increase the number of showers appropriately, preferably once every two days.

Pigeons have poor disease resistance during molting, and even healthy pigeons are prone to get sick during this period. It is best to feed some nutrients containing trace elements, vitamins, amino acids and so on. And add some aminophenylarsonic acid to shorten the molting period and enhance the resistance.

And there is still a feeling of gilding the lily. Of course, when there is a lot of exercise every day, it is an exception. Many experiences and scientific theories tell us that friends know very well that they can eat enough when they are hungry. Pigeons usually eat too much feed without consuming the corresponding calories, so these calories will eventually become fat and be stored in pigeons. At this time, if pigeons are allowed to participate in the competition, terrible things will happen. Therefore, we should definitely pay attention to the amount of feed in the daily feeding process. Of course, we can let the young pigeons supplement some good feed within 60 days to strengthen their physique. I don't think people who are too used to feeding pigeons can change their tactics. Because feeding is a great pleasure for pigeon breeders! ! But dear friends, why should I put this thing in the first place? I believe you should understand its importance.

Second, about the training and flying of pigeons. It's not that the more training, the better. I can prove it to you with my own facts. Because I don't have many pigeons, I always have irrelevant ideas about training and releasing them. On the one hand, work is not allowed, on the other hand, it is mainly because there are few pigeons and it is not worth training! I have always known that my friends know that I don't approve of private education, especially in autumn competitions. I always think that there is no problem of waking pigeons in autumn competition (which is qualitatively different from the need to wake pigeons at the beginning of spring competition). The pigeons I have participated in the pre-training in recent years are limited to newly introduced pigeons and pigeons with poor performance in the shed, simply for testing performance and compulsory elimination. At the end of last year, I let 14 pigeons take part in the competition, of which about 8 were my newly paired pigeons. I let these pigeons take part in all the training flights before the district, * * * 50K- 100K five times, plus four times by the listed association, which means that the pigeons I flew more in the final have been baptized nine times. And my other six pigeons started flying from the city association, and some even took the method of solo flight. As a result, intensive training can't bring good results. Pigeons have all returned, but their physique has obviously decreased. Some pigeons have yellow mouths, and other friends who are also flying have other related problems. These problematic pigeons have lost their competitiveness in the final because their physique has been unable to adapt to the fierce competition. And what is the final result? Of course, my untrained pigeons stood in front of the final, and some seriously damaged pigeons died in the final. Through such training, I summed up the mystery before the autumn game. I think their constitution is the worst during molting. Autumn competition flight must be based on the pigeon's physique. Moreover, autumn training can slightly reduce the number of flights, which is definitely good for pigeons. The pigeons I have participated in the pre-training in recent years are limited to newly introduced pigeons and pigeons with poor performance in the shed, simply for testing performance and compulsory elimination. The single-station jump and release mode referred to here is to fly directly over 90 km or 120 km as the starting station, and there is no need to repeat training and release within the previous 50 km. Through observation, it is found that the pigeons released at the station have no advantage over the pigeons released at the first stop. There are two kinds of pigeons that can be released in this way, mainly pigeons with poor physique, in order to save their physical fitness until the final. Starting from the same pigeon station, the final result is the same as flying jump. Not all pigeons who have participated in many training flights can get good rankings. At first, I used the method of single-stop jumping to save pigeons' physical fitness, such as 70K, 150K and 150K, 250K and 500K. The former is aimed at newly released pigeons, while the latter is suitable for new pigeons (it seems that it is best for pigeons to fly solo after adding 250 physical fitness). First of all, from the point of view of replaying pigeons, 94 years ago, I used the form of standing pigeons, but in the later stage, pigeons were seriously lost, especially when 1000K re-entered (which may be related to my feeding a lot of pigeons), but the day after tomorrow, especially in the autumn competition every year, I used the way of putting old pigeons in two or three stations, and the phenomenon of losing pigeons was less. Male pigeons, in particular, are rarely accidentally lost. It is recorded that pigeons born to a seven-year-old woman flew 1000 km, and pigeons flew 8,000 km in five years (at that time, only 500K, 700K, 1000K were released three times a year, not as much as now). Recently, I have used the second kind to fly more pigeons, mainly to exercise their directional ability. Generally speaking, untrained pigeons will not perform very well at the first stop 150K training (which is what I hope), and will return to their nests in the afternoon or the next morning. I feel that this can train pigeons to recognize their bearings independently. Because it can't follow the pigeons home. Good pigeons generally stand out in the follow-up training and flying. If there is an opportunity, you must add a single training opportunity of 100K after the 250K flight. The probability of success is high, but it is not suitable for people who are overweight!

Thirdly, proper medical care is definitely good for homing pigeons, especially after homing, which lays a decisive foundation for future competitions. Therefore, it is suggested that homing pigeon lovers should attach great importance to post-competition health care. I used to have a problem that bothered me, that is, pigeons were not released again. Some people say that this is because pigeons have poor performance and poor hybridization. I don't believe this. I adopted the methods of daily health care and key health care after the game. In this way, the loopholes in republishing are obviously reduced. This fully shows that some pigeons are not caused by themselves, but by human factors. Recommend to you what I think is the daily health care medicine for pigeons.

1, calcium. Calcium tablets are indispensable, and they should be used together with vitamin D to promote the absorption of vitamin D, so they must be fed at the same time. One more thing to remind here, feed calcium.

Try to use crude calcium, not human calcium. Why do you say that? We can see that the absorption of pigeons is different from that of humans. The stronger the calcium, the better for them. Even some shell powder can't be absorbed by human beings, but we pigeons can absorb it very easily. I once met a friend who fed people calcium gluconate. I have reminded him many times that this is not good for pigeons, but he has never adopted it and thinks I am wrong. And what is the final result? None of the pigeons he gave birth to, especially the little pigeons of life and death pigeons, can only qualify. I don't think this kind of lesson should appear among pigeon friends. Pigeons can eat this stone to supplement calcium. Can we humans? Some things are extreme antonyms. I think we should have the concept of thinking. There are many things that humans can use on pigeons, but there are also many things that must not be used on pigeons.

2, honey. This is very common in the market but quite cheap (compared with special pigeon medicine). It is quite effective to let pigeons drink some honey water after going home, which can promote the rapid recovery of physical fitness. In fact, everyone who raises pigeons should not underestimate the role of honey. Here is a brief introduction to its efficacy. Honey is a kind of natural nutrition, which harmoniously moistens the lungs and intestines. It contains high-quality sugar, vitamins and minerals, which can burn the body's energy. It can also eliminate the garbage in the body and restore the original metabolic function. It also has many functions such as detoxification, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antiseptic, wound protection, cell regeneration and exudate absorption. Honey is rich in glucose, protein, vitamins, organic acids, amino acids, pollen and other nutrients, which not only helps to increase the detoxification ability of the liver, but also has the effect of strengthening the stomach and helping digestion. It has a low calorie and is a very effective medicine for pigeons. Pigeons should still consider when choosing tonics for pigeons.

3. salt. Salt is a necessity for pigeon physiological regulation. We can add a certain amount of salt to sand and water, which will make you achieve satisfactory results. The above three kinds of added foods I recommend are cheap and good. Now the carrier pigeon industry is quite developed. As long as you are willing to spend the money we need, I think the goal can be achieved. The current health care product market is a very profitable industry, so we'd better familiarize ourselves with the ingredients before using them, so as not to become big losers.

Fourth, reasonable pre-competition cleaning. I want to talk about trichomonas and respiratory tract cleaning. I won't gild the lily, because there is a special article on it.

5. Reasonable adjustment in the competition. We have too many ways to adjust racing pigeons. The foreign widower system is one of the methods worth learning from. In fact, our aim is to get the pigeons home as soon as possible. It is necessary and effective to give them some necessary stimulation. Of course, we should also pay more attention to rest during the training flight, and don't neglect to give pigeons the necessary and sufficient physical rest time because of the adjustment of drugs.

Sixth, summary.

I don't want to write too much in daily management articles, because I know that no matter what method you take, you can succeed, which is very correct. As long as we pay attention to how to keep pigeons healthy and full of vitality, the rest of the methods are aimed at these two aspects. But we should also pay attention to our management mentality. In daily management, I think we must have a normal mind and stop. If we spend too much heart, we will only get too much sadness, and our efforts and expectations are equal. Everyone who raises pigeons has paid too much, but can we make a smooth transition in the case of failure? Can you sum up your past successes and failures and your own experience? This is the key to eternal success. Finally, I want to quote a famous saying that I appreciate very much, "Keep it simple, I believe a good pigeon can win and forget everything else." Pigeonracing has no secret to make pigeons fly faster. "