In Magic: The Gathering, using combat cards or spell cards to launch an attack requires the support of "land" cards. After each attack, the used cards are exhausted until they can be used again in the next turn; land cards The use of is repeated, which can reduce the luck of not being able to draw land cards in a certain round. Even if you cannot draw land cards for several rounds, you can still launch an offensive. In addition, at the beginning, players can draw 7 cards as a starting point. If you are not satisfied with the card, you can reduce the number of cards in your hand and draw it again. This can greatly reduce the chance of not being able to draw the land card at the beginning and reduce the luck component. It can be said that the luck component is very low, and there are many in Magic: The Gathering. Special cards allow you to draw specific cards from the deck, which provides another way to reduce luck problems.

There is no concept of land cards and air cards in Yu-Gi-Oh! There is no requirement to launch an attack. You only need to launch an attack during the combat phase. The offensive cards can also be defended during the opponent's attack round, so that there will be no problem of not being able to draw air cards or land cards that will affect the battle. This approach of Yu-Gi-Oh! undoubtedly reduces the difficulty of solving the problem and eliminates the most troublesome ones. The air cards and land cards have been removed, and we only need to solve the problem of not being able to draw battle cards. Like Magic: The Gathering, there are also many cards in Yu-Gi-Oh that allow players to summon battle cards from the deck or graveyard to the field or hand. In this way, even if a card battle card is encountered, they will not have to draw battle cards. Cards are used to solve problems, adding a variety of methods to solve cards.

Magic cards are the same as Magic cards. When attacking, you need to lay down "terrain cards" first to form magic power. Then, according to the attributes and magic values ??formed by the terrain cards, corresponding combat cards or magic cards can be produced. The different attack/defense situations are very particular about the different cards. Equipment cards cannot be used alone and must be attached to the corresponding combat cards to be effective. For junior players, they usually use 50 free cards to form a basic card pile. At the beginning of the game, players will get six first cards, and then they will make up for the six cards each round. If the cards are used up, the game is lost. In addition, Magic Cards also adds a coin system to the game. Through random changes in the coin system, your attack, defense or physical strength may change dramatically, which may increase it significantly or reverse it. The reduction of land makes the process and results of the game more unpredictable.

In general, the two card games Magic: The Gathering and Yu-Gi-Oh! are already very mature and have many supporters around the world, and Magic: The Gathering, a domestic card game This type of game has just begun. Whether it is the number of cards or the richness of the game, it is much inferior to the previous two games. But Magic Cards also has an innate advantage that Magic: The Gathering and Yu-Gi-Oh! and Yu-Gi-Oh.

In Magic: The Gathering, there are four basic card types: threats, solutions, draw cards, and mana sources. Every published card has one or more functions that fit it.

Threats: Jackal, Lamp Djinn, Grinding Stone

Answer: Swords into Pears, Gerald’s Wisdom, God’s Wrath, Shatter, Stone Rain , Thick Fog

Card draw: Call of the Tomb of the Holy Ancestor, Mysterious Tome, A Touch of God

Mana source: Forest, Dark Ritual, Early Harvest

Cards with multiple functions: Renegade (mana source, solution), Elves of Llanowar (mana source, threat), Hammer of Bogardan (resolution, threat), Quick Strike (card draw, solution), Crazy Search Seeking (card draw, mana source)

The king of aggro says that if you can pose a threat, your opponent is forced to find an answer. For example, if you play Grindstone, that threat cannot be eliminated by your opponent's Horror. You have a threat so that your opponent is forced to deal with it, and your opponent's solution - may not be for the threat that you are now posing to it.

Dave quotes this to explain why he always plays aggro decks. This statement is correct, but easily misunderstood. For any threat you place, your opponent must either have a solution to it, be faster than it is, or die in its hands. The scare above is an example of this, and if you keep catching the wrong solutions, you will eventually die at the hands of this threat. It's simple, but what this thoughtful quote doesn't address is the natural connection between solution and hand advantage and combo speed. While it's impossible for a control deck to not draw an answer, and their answer is likely to work for a variety of threats. If the aggro player has four creatures and the control player has Wrath of God, then in an instant, all four of the aggro player's cards will be wiped out by one card from the control player.

I'm not going to try to disprove the words of one of the most famous aggro players in Magic history. For the most part, King of Aggro only tells us why he chooses to play aggro decks. He doesn't necessarily have to play an aggro deck; he fully understands the power of a control deck. In the 2001 National Championship, he played blue and white control in the standard environment. There are two reasons why he rarely plays control decks: First, he really likes control decks. Second, he felt an obligation to his loyal followers not to let them down too much.

This raises a theory. A theory that spans both Limited and Constructed.

You may ask me, why would I dig such an old and famous quote out of the archives? Well, at the Atlanta Grand Prix, I was talking to a good friend of mine, the accomplished control player, Joe Crosby. After Joe teamed up with CMU-TOGIT to test, he took the elf deck to participate in this competition. Although I had put three Phyrexian Annihilators in the sideboard of his Druid's Oath deck in the past, and he used Wish of Life to find this card every time, the aggro deck was not suitable for Joe. It's still a completely new field. Joe said something that I think is more classic than Dave's famous quote about aggro strategy to control players: "I never realized that when your opponent is under pressure, they will make a lot of mistakes." This sentence is very big. It inspired me to write this article.

This is another sentence with a simple and easy-to-understand meaning. I will analyze it in depth to ensure that you can fully understand what it means. When you push your opponent to strategic defense, you gain a psychological advantage. Panic sets in as the opponent fears losing the game in two or fewer turns. When panic occurs, mistakes are inevitable. I totally agree with this statement and I'm surprised Joe didn't understand this from Limited.

In fact, one of the main points I'm trying to address in this article is player passivity in Limited. When pressure is put on players, fear develops in them - fear that they have to defend. Many times, I've seen players attack with creatures that couldn't block or wouldn't do well if blocked. Many times my opponent was too scared to attack with his 3/4 (or larger creature) when facing three 2/2s. I can't understand it at all, but. I hope you continue to do this the next time you see me.

While I was writing this article, I chatted with Mike Turian online for a while, and he gave me some new quotes. "The best aggro players in the world don't think much - they just attack." That's not what he says, but he has a basis for it. The basis for this statement is that the best aggro players in the world are proactive rather than reactive. If you lose because of your offense, then at least you know you did your best. If you lose because you don't attack, you should regret it. This doesn't mean that just attacking is the right thing to do, just like saying that resetting isn't always the right choice. . . But folks, in the vast majority of cases, mistakes occur in a passive manner. If the situation on the field is not clear, move forward! attack!

I don't mean to send a 2/2 creature right into the jaws of your opponent's 4/4 creature without the help of any trick cards, but I mean don't be afraid. Try to cheat your opponent once. Mark LePine never scratches his head to survive - because it doesn't have to! He can attack every turn as if he has this card in his hand.

Now, you're definitely thinking, "Ken, how do I become a better offensive player?" Well, let's be honest, it's not just pure offense. If you have ever lost to an XPH, then you should also know that a garbage player is far more dangerous when he is attacking than when he is not attacking. Here's a little secret about attacking:

Secret Tip 1: Don't worry about whether your opponent has a penetrating creature.

These cards are dangerous. I don't mean "leave them alone" - just don't worry about them when you're determined to attack. These creatures will step on you whether you attack or not, so don't be fooled by them. Let them be until you can figure it out. Regardless, at the same mana cost, their penetrating creatures are usually no bigger than your regular creatures, so you can compete with them on speed - and sometimes, that's what beats them. The only way.

Tip 2: Consider all possible blockers.

You need to consider all the blockers available to you and your opponent. This is more complicated, but once you start analyzing this way it can become a habit. When your life total is high enough, a blocker can stall an entire game of attacking creatures. Let's say you have fourteen life, and your opponent has two 2/1s and a 1/1, and you only have one 3/3 creature. Then attack with your 3/3 creatures. Your opponent can't block, and you don't have to worry about your opponent's creatures stepping back. This scenario may seem simple, but I've seen players struggle with this scenario many times.

Cheats 3: Cheating

Every creature becomes useless at some point. For some creatures, it becomes useless after killing your opponent (duh!) - for others, it becomes useless after the fourth turn. So, when your grizzly brown bear encounters the opponent's giant spider after attacking for two rounds. You have two options:

1. You can not attack, wait to catch other things, and let your grizzly brown bear act as a blocker.

2. You accept the fact that Grizzly Bear is a useless card, and then use it and the creatures around you to attack.

I usually choose the second option. This will allow your opponent to weigh the pros and cons, and it will also convince him that you have instant cards to respond to. I'd say there's more than half a chance they'll take the damage.

If they block, you lose an inconsequential 2/2 creature. Of course, this puts you at a slight disadvantage on the field, but it's a risk I'm willing to take.

Secret Tip 4: Pretend to be confident.

When you give people a feeling that the game is safe, then your opponent will be less likely to want to attack. I agree with this; and I benefit from it. In fact, I think the main reason why I don't become a great poker player is because I'm not very good at hiding my emotions and am easily fooled by my opponents. When my opponent pretends to be aware of my threats, I usually believe that I want you, like me, to get rid of this habit.

This reminds me of another quote: Ben Stark once said, "The key to Magic is that if your only way to win is to smother, then act like you've drawn smother." Big game." This statement proves two things. First, what Ben wants to point out is that if you play the game as if you already have the winning card, you will always get the best situation on the board before you draw the card. The second point is to make your opponent believe that you already have a winning card to put pressure on them.

Cheat 5: Analyze the pros and cons yourself.

Try to think about how much your offense is costing you and what you can gain from it. Analyze the life totals of both sides. Analyze your opponent's offense on the next turn - make sure you take the least amount of damage. You have to consider the situation on both sides to truly attack appropriately. You need to know what's available for offense, what's the best offense, and what offenses are likely to occur (they're usually all different).

In Limited and Constructed, understand when the attacker is important. Mike Flores wrote one of the most classic articles on this subject. Regardless, sometimes you need to make a decision before the game starts. In Limited, you need to analyze the cards you have and try to separate out all the aggro and control elements of your deck so you know how you should play your deck. When building, you need to anticipate the decks that will appear in the tournament to decide whether your deck will be aggro, control, or aggro control.