Before I came to Lanzhou, I repeatedly read this fierce poem and imagined the northwest city.

This is written by Ye Zhou, a poet in Lanzhou. In Lanzhou, you can catch four or five wineries in one night, and your passion is overflowing. He often walks tirelessly from one wine table to another. Then, either go to KTV or go to bars, drink too much and sing loudly.

This is also the most common state of many Lanzhou men at night. This is a city soaked in alcohol. "Entertainment basically depends on wine." People in Lanzhou boast that they drink one brand of wine a year. Lanzhou people like to "break through the customs", one person wins the world, and six games win or lose. I still remember the first time I went to Gannan Road to drink, and I felt that the bars in this city were so low-grade, not as prosperous as Renmin South Road in Chengdu, not as misty and rainy as Andefu Lane in Xi 'an, and some just shoveled meat. Mutton noodles, garlic, barbecue, you think this is a bar?

In summer, there will be large and small beer stalls in the city. The most famous is the Yellow River Beer Square, which Lanzhou people call a "mass grave". Thousands of plastic tables are crowded in the sand, the sound of boxing and marching is endless, and stumbling drunks come and go. Whether it's Jiuquan Road Night Market, Gannan Road or Maijishan Road, it's wobbly to go out at night. There are big fists and small fists, and there are 155 and 20 kinds. Color, there is a new Cc in the harem. No matter dancing or slow rocking, they all drink beer, not as feminine as Chengdu and Xi 'an, and want to drink foreign wine. There is only the Great Yellow River here.

The whole city seems to be a little drunk. Yan Jun, a music critic from Lanzhou, said: "Alcoholism is the daily life of most male citizens in Lanzhou. Because alcohol creates hallucinations, the wine table is the Jianghu and the stage. Fighting wine is like a sword, shaking hands is an oath. When eating roast sheep in Lanzhou, I was a little surprised that Lanzhou still has such a wild way to eat. I cut directly with a knife in my hand, and then eat meat in chunks. Then, Hui Jin, Hanwuyu and other liquors came, and then, you don't know what beer looks like. I suddenly remembered a colleague who used to work in Zhongyeda, Gansu. He said that Lanzhou drank more wine in three months than in the previous 30 years.

You can drink more than a dozen bottles of red wine at the first meal. Here, the drinking method of red wine goblets is to fill a glass and then dry it. Enjoy the red wine slowly. There is no market here. No matter how expensive you are, whether you are Australian or French, the drinking style here is very boring.

This is a city with some Jianghu flavor. Ye Zhou is called "Big Brother" by many poets in this city. "Writing poetry is like mixing the underworld, and you have to have a big brother to cover it. Just like the underworld, if you want to write poetry, you have to fight for several docks, that is, you have to find several magazines that distribute things. This is like a mixed look. " Zhang Hailong, a Lanzhou writer who lives far away in the south of the Yangtze River, is his younger brother.

Wake up after a hangover, starting with a bowl of beef noodles. Every morning, millions of Lanzhou people rush to this bowl of noodles. They may be students, migrant workers, vendors, white-collar workers, university professors and leading cadres. They are all sitting at greasy tables, or squatting on dirty concrete floors and on the side of the road, carrying a big porcelain bowl and pouring beef noodles into their stomachs like a waterfall.

In Lanzhou, there is a beef noodle restaurant a few steps away with different tastes. Everyone has their own favorite shop. But the shops with the best reputation are small shops with only one or two pavements. If you follow the soup, you will definitely close at around 2 pm every day.

Lanzhou people are easy to satisfy, and small wealth is safe. There are countless "Lanzhou Authentic Beef Ramen Restaurant" all over the country. But those marked "genuine" are basically not genuine. Most of these beef noodle restaurants are run by their neighbors, Hualong people in Qinghai. "Lanzhou people plant trees, and Hualong people enjoy the cool. No matter how poor Lanzhou people are, they all smoke black Lanzhou. Out of the black Lanzhou auspicious Lanzhou fly to Lanzhou, I can't figure out what cigarettes Lanzhou sells.

Lanzhou people are guarding the Yellow River and don't want to go far. Because I left Lanzhou, I didn't have that smell. Ye Zhou once ate hundreds of beef noodle restaurants in Beijing, but it was a pity that there was no taste at all.

Two years ago, he went to Nanxun, Zhejiang on business, and the raw seafood made him lose his appetite. A friend specially found him a Lanzhou Beef Lamian Noodles Restaurant. He looked at the sign and was ecstatic. But when the chef served the soup, he was in distress situation-shrimp skin and kelp were added to the soup.

People in Lanzhou say that beef noodles are not allowed outside Lanzhou. Zhang Hailong found the reason, probably because "without Lanzhou, a city with rough dialect, stimulating diet and impatient personality, the character of beef noodles will soften, and sometimes even the peppers will be spared, and it is a waste of time to replace them with sweet and greasy hot sauce".

Writer Han Songluo was robbed of his mobile phone in the streets of Lanzhou. He felt that there was a savage force deep in the city.

In the movie "Xinlongmen Inn", Maggie Cheung, who is stunted, was almost cut into pieces by the butcher and roasted into kebabs. The butcher speaks an authentic Lanzhou dialect.

Second, "Lanzhou, at every street corner, someone will fight with you;" In Lanzhou, every bus is crowded with pickpockets ... Many girls can speak dialects, and most boys hide murder weapons.

Ye Zhou's friend Tang Xin once described his three years in Lanzhou. In the poet's pen, violence has aesthetic significance and makes secular life legendary. The poems here are as exciting as the people here. They are impulsive, emotional, often drunk and mentally wild.

I remember when Zhang Tong first told me about the legendary Gong Lin Road, he said this place was called Somali in Lanzhou. I don't believe what the downtown area of the provincial capital city will be like. After I delivered the goods to sigh, I felt that this road was not Somalia, but Baghdad. The only difference with Baghdad is that there are no American soldiers on the road, only sheepfolds and burning garbage.

Girls in Lanzhou are more wild. For girls in Lanzhou, smoking, drinking and fencing are definitely indispensable.

Girls in Lanzhou drink and punch big and small, what can't be played and what can't be played well. At the Third Plenary Session, white beer and red beer were mixed together, and white wine was two and a half Jin of beer. The tattoo on the left hand is Dragon Tiger Leopard, and the tattoo on the right hand is Astro Boy.

I like the shape of this city, where people are straightforward, love is love, hate is hate, and there are not so many twists and turns.

If I had known where the Yellow River water was going, what was the purpose of building that fucking iron bridge? If I had known where my sister's heart would change, what would I have done if I had talked about that fucking love? These are two lyrics from "If I had known" written by Lanzhou rock band Wild Kids. I can't help laughing every time I listen.

If you arrive in Lanzhou at midnight. The plane landed in a barren land, which is the farthest airport in China. More than 70 kilometers away, rare lights. The dark barren hills on both sides are endless, and the moonlight is cold and desolate. The roaring road signs point to Qinghai, Xinjiang and Tibet. The distant distance makes people associate.

Then, a city suddenly appeared in front of us magically.

The land here is barren, but the more barren it is, the more it can stimulate people's imagination. The only magazine in China that studies UFOs, UFO Exploration, is here.

Lanzhou is located at the westernmost end of the Loess Plateau, with bare mountains on both sides and thirsty yellow eyes. Since the 1950s, generations of Lanzhou people have been carrying ice up the mountain and planting trees one by one.

In order to realize green everywhere more quickly, Lanzhou used to cover the mountains with green cloth to make them look green. Others want to cover the mountains with green mosaics or paint them once a year.

Lanzhou is a weak basin. In winter, the airflow is not smooth, and industrial pollution and domestic waste gas become the "pot cover" above the basin. As a result, Lanzhou became one of the most polluted cities in China, and even American reconnaissance satellites could not be seen.

So someone put forward a huge plan to place huge blowers on the north and south mountains of Lanzhou, just like installing a huge air conditioner in the city, the air will flow freely and be very fresh. However, how big is this blower?

People once again turned their eyes to Daqingshan: it stands at the entrance to the east of Lanzhou. You move it away, and the wind will naturally blow in, right? Lanzhou people discussed it seriously for some time and asked experts to demonstrate it. Finally, they decided to "move mountains and be foolish." However, the Lanzhou people's way is to bring the Yellow River water up and use it to flush the Huangtuling. Suddenly one day, the whole Daqingshan project was involved in a lawsuit, and the feat of Lanzhou people was abandoned.

These movements are close to performance art, which is somewhat playful. Every winter, the dead branches on both sides of Binhe Road are covered with colorful plastic flowers, which will never wither in the snow.

There are large and small indoor bonsai gardens all over Lanzhou. Whether it's yellow sand outside or desolate everywhere, people sit in greenhouses, enjoy flowers and trees and have a cup of tea.

Yunnan Chunjian tea is in the water, and large pieces of rock sugar sink under the tea. Plus red medlar, jujube in Linze, longan in Fujian and Li Guangxing in the western regions. Some places will add a few rose buds. After three bubbles, the bud blooms like a hibiscus. Jujube can replenish blood and nourish the mind, nourish the liver and kidney, and rock sugar can tonify the middle energizer, moisten the stomach and lungs, promote fluid production and clear heat; Longan can nourish the heart and spleen, nourish blood and soothe the nerves; Raisins can replenish qi and blood, strengthen bones and muscles, facilitate urination, and chrysanthemums can clear away heat and detoxify. Therefore, drinking tea with a scraping bowl can promote fluid production, relieve fatigue, nourish and strengthen the body. . . . .

In fact, the rose is the city flower of Lanzhou. The place where Lanzhou produces roses is complaining. The bitter water in Lanzhou dialect refers to the pupil of human eyes. Lanzhou is named after a kind of bluegrass growing on Gaolan Mountain, and it is also the hometown of lily.

Every spring on the streets of Lanzhou, there is always a flower seller who brings a bunch of flowers home in the rolling yellow sand. As a result, the romance and poetry here have a somewhat rough texture.

Sandstorm is a long-standing topic here. People in Lanzhou joked that sandstorms are rich in nano-molecules, and people who have experienced sandstorms will live more vigorously, although most people don't know what nano is.

This is the optimism of Lanzhou people. In the increasingly fierce sandstorm, Lanzhou people have cooked a "chicken soup for the soul" for China people for 30 years, which has influenced the world outlook and outlook on life of countless urban youths in China. This is the most depressing thing for me. Why do readers' books grow in the wildest place in Lanzhou?