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A glimpse of the leopard chestnut family in the retro trend (I)
During the period of 65438+60s, there was a wave of retro-ism in European jewelry industry, that is, jewelry designers drew inspiration from the jewelry of ancient Greece, ancient Rome and Etruscan civilization discovered by archaeology, and were keen on restoring and studying the jewelry excavated by archaeology, copying ancient jewelry technology and absorbing design style.

In this retro trend, the Italian Castellani family can be said to be the most famous family.

The lentil ornaments worn by young Etruscans were worn by young Etruscans as amulets and transformed into pendants for women. Greek style bracelets, bracelets and bracelets are loved by fashionable women, which also encourages people to be interested in Castellani's precise and skillful works. Their works include Roman mosaic brooches inspired by Byzantium, religious decorations and Latin inscriptions, scarabs and crowns of oak and laurel trees.

For 20 years, Italians, French and British people have been keen on antique jewelry. It was not until the 1980s of 19 that their appeal began to decline.

Jewelry made by ancient Etruscans.

Castellani almost always uses two intertwined letters "C" welded to jewelry to mark their works. Three types of Castellani symbols are known: first, the letter combination is located in the center of the cartoon pattern; The second symbol consists of a simple combination of letters: the third and rarest symbol consists of the letter ACC, which may be the unique symbol of Alessandro Castellani.

Among other Italians engaged in archaeological work, Melillo is worth mentioning. Ghiacci Melillo (1846- 19 15) managed Castellani's studio in Naples until Alessandro Castellani returned to Rome in 1870. Starting from 1859, he left Rome for political reasons.

The Castellani family designs jewelry.

There are many similarities between his jewelry and Castellani's, inspired by the same campana series of jewelry discovered by Pompeii and Herculaneum. Melillo signed the letter "GM" in some of his works, but most of his works were unsigned. His archaeological style continued into the 20th century.

Ernesto Peart (1824-1870), a Frenchman, settled in Rome in 1857 and worked in Castellani style, although the way was not too complicated. He often uses mosaics and ancient coins in his works (see plate 254), and signs his works, either with his full name or with the elaborate abbreviation EP on his shield.

? Two other names worth remembering are Antonio Cali (1830- 1870), who started to produce Castellani-style jewelry in Rome from 1857, and Antonio Shivarotti (1798- 1870).

Due to some very complicated political reasons, Knight campana was accused of mismanagement, imprisoned in 1859, and all his property was confiscated. 1860, Charles Louis Napolé on Bonaparte bought this collection in the market, which immediately aroused great enthusiasm. As early as 1862, before the Louvre officially held an exhibition, jewelry with new Greek influence began to appear on the market.

Eugene Fontaine (1823- 1887) is fascinated by this collection and, following the example of Castellani, is eager to study campana's original works and other private collections. Soon he created new and beautiful works with good style and taste.

Modern ancient coin art jewelry

Castellani exhibited his archaeological jewels in London on 1862. Famous jewelers engaged in classical styles include Robert Phillips (1810-1881) (see mate179) and John Broden (active in 65438+). Greek and Trullian art not only influenced the production of jewelry in terms of shape and design, but also included the technology of Galardi thought. Carving and chasing disappear in sharp contrast, with smooth surface and honeysuckle silk on it.

Due to people's interest in decorative archaeological styles, the fashion of using jewelry inlaid with coins is back. From 1860 to 1870, Castellani and Pierrette made brooches, necklaces and bracelets inlaid with Greek and Roman coins in Naples in Rome and Jules Weiss in Paris. They are usually very common styles, coins are of low value and are based on simple gold.

The picture and text are taken from the book Understanding Jewelry.

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