Introduction to Sticking Racket (Excerpt 1: Selected)
Everything is ready except the east wind. But before you start pasting, you have to face a choice: take the professional route or the amateur route? Different answers will use different methods.
The so-called professional route is simply "glue filling"-the racket must be re-glued before each play, and the amount of glue used greatly exceeds the "amateur route" to maximize the expansion and stretching of the sponge and obtain amazing lethality. Golfers who go to the scene to watch high-level professional games may be shocked by the metal sound of hitting the ball. Don't think that their floor is different from their own hands. In fact, it is entirely the contribution of glue. The amateur route is to stick it several times at a time, with the least amount of glue to obtain stable adhesion, and it is often not enough to stick the sponge glue when replacing it.
What is the best? In fact, there is no absolute difference between the two methods, but it should be decided according to the user's own situation. For skilled and well-trained professional players, the glued racket is a sword, which can help them maximize their level in the competition; For amateurs above the average level, filling with glue is like using seven-wound boxing. While enjoying the pleasure, it is also easy to worry about losing control (although the sponge feels soft after rising, sometimes it can't be controlled too quickly). When it is in a slightly worse state, it is more likely to make mistakes frequently, and it may eventually kill one thousand enemies and hurt itself by 800. After each glue filling, due to the difference of glue amount and gluing method, the hitting feeling will be unstable, and whether to use it depends on personal preference; For beginners, filling the glue is a waste, which can only increase the time of picking up the ball without experiencing any benefits.
From the technical style point of view, young golfers who are dominated by arcs and prefer to attack are most suitable to take the "professional route", followed by arc players who balance offense and defense and worship the old baby. Middle-aged and old golfers with obvious fast break traces should use this route with caution. For amateurs who play short balls, it is not recommended to pour the glue, because the granulation requires a high touch. It is difficult for fans with limited practice time to "accelerate" the sponge with glue, let alone pour glue on the long ball.
Judging from the cost of money, the cost of tire repair glue is worth considering: professional fast glue is undoubtedly the best choice, but it is expensive, and it is useless to use a lot of tire repair glue as a substitute; In terms of coverage, imported rubber covers are usually severe patients with chewing gum addiction (except tensor products). If the corresponding rubber-filled version, such as Sriver FX, is not filled with rubber, it will be difficult to use, and the imported single sponge with poor rubber-filled effect is often not cheap. At the same time, frequent rubber filling will obviously shorten the life of sponge (or rubber sleeve). Most players in China change their rubber covers once or twice a week (of course, this is largely due to the high hitting frequency). How many amateurs have such financial resources?
In terms of time cost, taking the "professional route" also requires more patience than others. It is said that Ma is the first player in the national team to use imported rubber. Every time everyone practices, he is still sticking the racket, and even considered to be deliberately grinding time. After several times of glue filling, a thick film will remain on the sponge, which will not only affect the hitting feel, but also affect the effect of glue filling again, and removing this film is probably a kind of torture for many people. Of course, habit becomes nature. If you do a good job, the pleasure after pouring the glue is quite attractive, but it is hard to use after the sponge-almost like smoking, it will be addictive.
The whole strategy of pasting (excerpt 2: pasting)
In view of domestic practice, only rubber, sponge and soleplate are purchased separately here. Friends who use rubber covers only need to refer to the sticking method of sponge and bottom plate.
Generally speaking, it is recommended to brush the sponge first, because the sponge absorbs the most glue and dries the slowest. As shown in figure 1, after the brush is filled with glue, brush it on the sponge once or twice in the vertical and horizontal directions (it is best to have a little space between brushes). Pay attention to brush continuously from one end to the other end every time after brushing, so that the glue is evenly distributed. If you are used to using a large amount of glue, you can pour the glue directly into the center of the sponge from the tank, and the diameter of the glue layer formed each time is about 35mm, and then apply it quickly with a brush. The operation should be fast, so as not to spread the glue evenly in time, especially the thick glue, and the arch after the sponge absorbs the glue will also cause some trouble for brushing the adhesive tape. If the glue on the sponge has started to dry, you'd rather not brush it evenly this time than continue to smear it. Otherwise, the more you brush it, the more uneven it will be. When you brush it again, just make it up.
For the bottom plate, pay attention to whether pretreatment is needed before brushing glue. The wood grain used in the traditional domestic soleplate is relatively dense and not easy to be damaged. However, with the rise of arc-shaped plates, a new problem has emerged-many surface materials used in soleplate (i.e., the outermost wood) are easy to bring down strips of sawdust when changing sponges. After repeated times, coupled with the inevitable collision when hitting the ball, a good soleplate is quickly destroyed. Bian Xiao once received a letter from a student reader, sadly telling what happened to him after he gritted his teeth and spent hundreds of dollars on imported motherboards. He even wondered if he had bought a fake. I believe there are not a few golfers who have had similar doubts. In fact, this situation is very common in imported curved plates, such as Avalox 500/Stigaoc/Butterfly Kong Linghui, etc. What you need to do is to evenly spread a thin layer of varnish on the plate and then polish it with fine sandpaper. It is said that Margovin wears transparent nail polish, and the carpenter's self-spraying nail polish is also a good choice. In short, it is advisable to protect the bottom plate and minimize the impact on its hitting performance. Some skirting lines have been pretreated before leaving the factory, which saves a lot of trouble for fans, such as the UV series products launched by Galaxy. Occasionally, the protective layer of some imported bottom plates is too smooth, which leads to unstable pasting. Similarly, it can be slightly treated with fine sandpaper to make its surface rough. If you want to paste paint on the back of the finished product, you can first dissolve the paint layer with "nitro thinner", which is much faster than sandpaper grinding, but more toxic.
The method of bonding the bottom plate is similar to that of sponge, as shown in Figure 2. Note that the glue layer on the floor is thin, and the glue absorption capacity of wood is far less than that of sponge. New floors or floors with soft surface materials need a little more glue.
After brushing the glue, dry it until the surface hardly sticks to the hands, and the deformation of the sponge completely recovers. Then, as shown in Figure 3, gently spread the sponge from the handle to the direction of the racket head, and then roll it in the same direction with a roller. Be careful not to push too hard for the first time, to avoid pulling the sponge to deformation, and then close it with the board and fix it. Then roll it twice with a little force, and the rolling speed should be even, not too fast. If bubbles are found between the sponge and the bottom plate, it is best to tear them off immediately and start over. If the glue sticks before drying, it will reduce the spinning performance when hitting the ball, and this effect will last for about an hour. If this happens, you can continue to use it for about 40 minutes; If it still doesn't get better, tear off the heavy glue. If the glue dries too slowly, you can blow it with a hair dryer, but don't raise the temperature of the wind. However, some fans think that it is best not to blow the bottom plate with a hair dryer, because the bottom plate contains more or less moisture, and hot air may cause its deformation.
After bonding, of course, it is cut. If you don't change the sponge often, the longer you want to stick it, the better. You can also slow down this step, or put the racket on a flat desktop and press it evenly with your palm (the side with the sponge attached is facing down, so you should pay attention to hanging the handle of the racket when you put it aside), because the edge of the sponge that has just been stuck will occasionally loosen when cutting. But it is best not to exert too much pressure, otherwise, for golfers above the medium level, they may feel that the sponge is "dead". Use scissors to cut off the excess sponge along the edge of the bottom plate. Skilled people had better do it in one go. Beginners can also rough cut first and then trim gradually. However, after cutting, look at the results of the racquet master and look at your own results. I'm afraid most golfers will not be too satisfied with themselves. It's no wonder that it's hard to be neat when you cut it more than ten times a day. But don't sigh yet. Look at the beat of foreign stars on TV. Few people have no extra edges like dog bites. In fact, this extra part can protect the edge of the bottom plate to some extent. If you want to pursue perfection, you can also polish the uneven edges with fine sandpaper after cutting, or simply put the bottom plate with sponge on the glass plate without scissors (sponge facing down), and scrape off the excess sponge along the edges with sharp blades, art knives and the like. But remember, it is best not to use this method for the old floor with bruised edges, or you may pull a piece of wood on the edge carelessly.
Next, we enter the most difficult part of the gluing process-gluing. What's the difficulty? The key is not to let the glue flow into the bottom skin between particles (anti-sticking), otherwise the glue will dry up and drag the adjacent particles together, making the surface of the rubber skin bumpy. It is recommended that inexperienced friends find two pieces of waste rubber to practice first. When Bian Xiao was still in high school, he learned a skill from the world of table tennis. If he gets a treasure, he will soon do the same thing. He evenly coated a thin layer of glue (slightly larger than rubber) on the clean glass plate, gently laid down the rubber particles and compacted them evenly with a little force. After a while, he slowly lifted the rubber and saw a layer of glue attached to the top of the particle. But the disadvantages of this method are also obvious: the glue on the glass plate often dries too fast; The uncovered adhesive film is often incomplete, resulting in uneven distribution of glue on the rubber particles (you can dip your fingers in glue to make it up evenly). I've seen people go further on this basis. After the glass plate was coated with glue, they dipped their hands in the glue layer, lifted it quickly, dipped it again and lifted it again. Therefore, the glue on the particles is even, which Bian Xiao can see clearly ... This skill of practicing Nine Yin Zhen Classics backwards is still reserved for DIY enthusiasts who are interested in achieving the master style. Bian Xiao is more willing to learn to use the brush honestly. Brush the inner wall of the glue pot several times, leaving only a thin layer of glue on the bristles, and then gently sweep the particle surface, paying attention to the flat angle of the brush (as shown in Figure 4). If you feel that there is no glue on the bristles, dip them again, squeeze out the excess glue and brush them again, usually after vertical and horizontal brushing. User maak2000 provides an improved method, as shown in Figure 5. Roll up the rubber and operate it. Friends who are not skilled in brushing their teeth may wish to try. Netatom users soak the sponge for washing dishes with glue before applying glue particles. Be careful not to use force when operating, so as not to squeeze the glue out of the sponge. In case the glue accidentally flows between particles, it can be picked out with a tapering object (such as a needle tip) after it is slightly dry; If you find problems after pasting, you can bake it near the concave glue with a lighter (be careful not to bake it).
Positive glue also has its own character: its bottom skin is often thinner and softer than reverse glue, and it is easy to deform and roll after gluing (especially long glue and raw glue), which brings little trouble to pasting. As shown in Figure 6, you can fix the four corners of the rubber with small pushpins in advance, and then apply the rubber evenly twice with a brush. After drying for a period of time, the rubber will recover itself. If you use less glue every time, the brush will be even and fast, and it may not be deformed.
Brush the sponge with glue. When the glue on the sponge and rubber is so dry that it doesn't stick to your hands, as shown in Figure 7, gently put a piece of white paper with smooth surface on the sponge, leaving only a narrow strip on the handle, gently put the rubber on it, and then grind it with a roller while drawing the white paper, which must be light, otherwise the rubber will be deformed. After rolling once, you can roll it twice with a little force to make it stick. If there is no roller available for the time being, you can use your hand instead, as shown in Figure 8. Press gently from the middle to both sides, paying attention to pressing more tightly to drive away bubbles. Don't press it from east to west, and don't stretch the rubber. After you are proficient, you don't have to "match" with white paper.
If you want to take the "professional route", it is slightly different. Brush the sponge with glue several times, and the expanded sponge will stick after each recovery. In order to make the sponge expand as quickly as possible, after brushing the glue once, stick it on the bottom plate for a while when the deformation reaches the maximum, tear it off, brush it again, stuffy it again, brush it again, and so on. You can also stick the rubber on the sponge first, and then pour the rubber into the sponge, so that the rubber is stretched while the sponge expands. After pouring the glue, it is best to tear off the cover at the end of each game to let the guy with tight body catch his breath, otherwise he will get old soon. Even, there is a self-made "tensor" method without a lot of glue, that is, when sticking, the sponge is stretched out with the help of the roller as much as possible, so that it suddenly stretches on the floor, and the metal sound can be heard when hitting the ball, and the speed is also improved a lot. But because there is no glue, the feel is not so soft and the rotation is much worse. If you use a sponge to "punish" rubber, it may crack after several uses, just like a real tensor.
If there is degumming between rubber and sponge, it is unwise to fill the glue directly from the degummed gap. It is best to carefully remove the whole rubber before sticking it on, or simply replace it with a new one.
For the straight board, most people will leave a certain gap between the cover and the handle when DIY, but some people like to stick it all on, which varies from person to person. However, for a straight board with two sides attached, Bian Xiao suggested that the back should be fully attached, which is beneficial to the finger grip. On the other hand, if there are gaps on both sides, the center of gravity of the racket will be too close to the racket head, which is not convenient for swinging.