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Chanel's theme slogan in the snow show
Fashion brands are half of women.

The fashion director is in charge behind Jiangshan.

They are either unrestrained or advocating nature.

And their design concepts.

Promoted the whole all-round fashion world.

Speaking of Chanel, people's first instinct is always elegant, concise and exquisite style. Coco chanel's motto is "Style lasts forever", and simple and elegant genes have been flowing in Chanel's brand blood.

No. 1

Coco Chanel

Emancipate women's bodies in the world.

It is no exaggeration to say that coco chanel dominated the style, posture and lifestyle of women in the first half of the 20th century.

She is good at breaking through the tradition, and as early as the 1940s, she successfully pushed the "bound" women's clothing to be simple and comfortable.

Victorian/Edwardian women's wear

Women's dress designed by Chanel

Chanel provided freedom and choice with liberation significance, and transformed fashion design from a trend dominated by men's views into an independent stage to express women's beauty.

Abandon tight waist and whale bone skirt hoop and advocate shoulder bag and fabric suit.

Whether it is sportswear with strong masculine elements, a two-piece tweed suit, artificial jewelry with worn-out values, or camellia totem with strong feminist color, it can show the new fashion created by repeatedly challenging the old system.

second

Karl Lagerfeld

Add young elements and advocate elegance and nature.

After coco chanel's death, Chanel was depressed for a long time, and the rut continued to stifle the vitality of the former fashion giants. It was not until 1983 that German designer karl lagerfeld became the chief designer of Chanel brand, pushing Chanel fashion to another peak.

Karl lagerfeld is called Caesar in the fashion world.

He advocated retro modern aesthetics, adding liveliness and interest while maintaining Chanel's simple and elegant style, making it younger, more modern and more mature.

Karl lagerfeld has a free, casual and relaxed design mentality. He changed the original series of achromatic colors such as black and beige into gorgeous colors, and shortened the length of the skirt to show his knees.

The injection of elements such as rock and sports makes him look original and bring his own style, which is refreshing. He always unifies two opposing artistic feelings in his design, which is both bold and dignified.

Another thing I have to say is the novel program theme and unique scenery. Needless to say, as long as we review the performance design over the years, we can feel Chanel's performance, which can be called a large-scale art performance.

Gucci was founded in 192 1 year. After three generations of bloodshed, it ended its family business model in 1995. At that time, Gucci was caught in a family struggle, its market share was greatly reduced, and its brand image was in urgent need of rectification.

No. 1

tom ford

Bring sexiness into laziness

1994 Gucci welcomed an important key figure in the brand history-designer tom ford.

After tom ford entered Gucci, he boldly endowed the brand with a brand-new modern sexy image, showing just the right lazy and decadent appearance.

In addition, he also updated the brand's advertising strategy, grasped the topic focus with controversial suggestion atmosphere, and reshaped the brand's market positioning, which not only reversed the sales dilemma faced at that time, but also brought Gucci, which had been on the road of decline, back to life and became an important modern representative at that time.

second

Frieda Gianini

Bringing gucci into an elegant era

Designer Frida Giannini officially took charge of Gucci in 1995, leading Gucci into the next decade known as the elegant era.

Frida was originally a Gucci accessories designer, who was good at elegantly interpreting the magnificent classics in brand history from a female perspective.

Horse-bit chain, double G Logo totem, red and green straight decorative belt have been repeatedly played in her design; In the era of tom ford, women's clothing lines are still modern and sexy.

third place

Alessandro Michel

Retro literature and art, bold rebellion, advocating extreme complexity

Alessandro Michel subverted the public's previous view of Gucci.

As Michelle said in her notes: "Every dress is competing with the standard, and it is trembling with nervousness. This is a rebellion against the rules, and striving for differences is an inalienable right. "

Michele's fashion design concept is more like his handy inspiration clipboard, full of fun and possibilities.

In the past, the mature style was replaced by the younger design, and the retro, literary, surreal and even eccentric atmosphere lingered in every season's works, and the extremely complex expression techniques became more and more intense.

Its concept of retro aesthetics has been highly sought after by millennials, and Gucci's new era has since been gorgeously opened under the leadership of the fashion poet Alessandro Michele.

No. 1

Hubert de Givenchy

Hepburn style, always elegant

1952 February 2, hubert de givenchy held his first personal work meeting in Paris.

In this fashion show, which is mainly made of white cotton cloth, supplemented by elegant embroidery and gorgeous beads, his creative talent amazed the people present, and also established a respected image of Givenchy in the fashion world.

For decades, the brand has been known for its "elegant style".

second

Ricardo Tissi

Join the mix and match elements to pursue young fashion.

Riccardo Tisci took office in 2005, giving up the high-profile fantasy designs of several predecessors. Riccardo Tisci advocates exquisite tailoring, digital printing and religious elements.

He loves animals and animal patterns, such as zebra pattern in spring and summer of 20 10, leopard pattern in spring and summer of 201/kloc-0, Rottweiler in autumn and winter of 2010, Dubin Spring in autumn and winter of 20 13. He also made rivet elements shine, making Givenchy the darling of young consumers.

third place

Claire White Keller

Return to elegance and meticulous, concise and generous.

In 20 17, Clare Waight Keller, a British designer, moved from Chloé to Givenchy, becoming the first female artistic director of Givenchy.

She took over men's wear and women's wear, and launched the first haute couture collection in June 20 18, bringing Givenchy back to Fashion Week after eight years.

Claire advocates walking the streets and lanes, combining Givenchy's elegance as always with his preferred concise style, advocating meticulous design and careful tailoring, showing women's elegance with minimalism and launching a series of amazing works.

When she retired, she got royal approval to design wedding dresses for Megan markel and Prince Harry.

No. 1

Christian Dior

The birth of classic new modeling

1947, christian dior launched its first fashion collection, named "New Look", to rebuild the beauty of women after the war.

This style broke the conservative lines of women's clothing after World War II. Dior improved the skirt length and stopped mopping the floor, emphasizing the curve of female breast augmentation, slim waist and soft shoulders to create an hourglass skirt.

Subsequently, in 195 1, an oval shape was designed with hard interlining, a tulip shape was introduced in 1953, and a vertical shape was introduced in 1954.

second

yves saint laurent

Create a unique silhouette and add exotic elements.

In the first fashion show from 1957 to 1960 and 1958, the skirt with narrow shoulders and knees was displayed, and the silhouette was called trapezoidal line.

At the same time, Saint Laurent loves oriental exotic culture and brings different national elements into Dior's design.

third place

Mark bohan

Elegant materials and floral elements show sexy charm.

Mark Bohan is Dior's longest-serving fashion designer. Yves Saint Laurent 196 1 joined the army, and Mark Bohan was appointed as the design director of Dior at the crucial moment until 1988.

He is good at using elegant materials and three-dimensional flower elements to show the sexy charm of women.

fourth

Gianfranco Ferrer

Atmospheric silhouette, elegant and sexy.

Gianfranco Ferre brings simple and atmospheric silhouette tailoring to Dior brand. He loves to decorate women's clothes with exaggerated collar, cuffs and bow structure, which brings Dior a cool but elegant and sexy charm.

The series he designed made great contributions to Playboy and Renaissance.

Fifth place

John Galliano

Turn the elegant "new look" into wild luxury.

From 1996 to 20 1 1, "Pirate" john galliano served as the design director of Dior, turning the elegant "new look" into wild luxury.

Driven by the rejuvenation of the brand, Pirate Master absorbed the oriental style and British wildness, and created unrepeatable glory for Dior through adventure, drama, madness and boldness throughout the design period.

In the autumn/winter haute couture series in 2004, john galliano reappeared the brilliant and flashy Victorian era. Exaggerated leg sleeves, court prints and jewelry were put on the stage, and the models even wore the queen's crown, which was extremely luxurious.

Saddle bag, which has been popular for many years, is also john galliano's masterpiece.

Sixth

Bill Gaeton

Delicate in level and good at reconciliation.

Compared with john galliano's original grandiose and dramatic attraction, Bill Gayton's design is more attractive for business. He pays attention to the delicate layering and the balance of light and thin materials, and harmonizes elegance and sexiness.

Seventh place

Raf Simons

Return to the solemn and elegant era

Raf simons paid more attention to minimalism and pragmatism, which made Dior's style return to its original elegance and solemnity, and at the same time added a sense of modernity to modern women.

He traced the brand back to Mr. Dior's time and brought DNA elements such as flowers and slim waist back to the fashion consumption of young people. Simple silhouette with charming details and soft color matching design method add a touch of fairy to Dior.

No. 1

yves saint laurent

Break the taboo of women and boldly enable the neutral style.

Rebellion, boldness and even shocking the world are the public's first impressions of Saint Laurent.

Whether he named the perfume black opium, launched a black model, or launched the world's first real pure lipstick, he was promoting his maverick.

He not only inherited the essence of French haute couture, but also outlined more modern fashion designs inspired by global popular culture, and created a series of classics such as mondriaan skirts, pop styles and smoked clothes.

He encouraged women to break taboos, boldly release themselves and find their own style.

Yves Saint-Laurent said: "Chanel liberated women and I empowered them."

second

Hedi Slimane

Progressive rock, dark rebellion

20 12 hedi slimane is the creative director of YSL men's wear. He boldly changed Yevs Saint Laurent into Saint Laurent Paris, which won the support of the brand, but also attracted a lot of dissatisfaction.

His avant-garde approach during his four-year tenure promoted the brand's rock spirit and revived its high-definition fashion collection.

The combination of bright colors such as stars, sequins, plaids, leather pants, motorcycle jackets and fishnet socks with YSL traditional style makes the design more suitable for the decadent and rebellious image of millennials and rock youths, and helps the brand to become younger in an all-round way.

third place

Anthony Vaccarello

Strong and sexy, pay tribute to classic symbols

After Hedi left, YSL was succeeded by Anthony Vaccarello, a fashion designer who graduated from La Cambre School of Design.

His works are more powerful and sexy like Italian fashion. He pursues the rigor of structure and the form that conforms to his outline, and black is his favorite color.

Different from Hedy's fierceness and publicity, Anthony's works are exquisite and rich, well-tailored and pursue French fashion.

Leather girdle, classic smoking, exaggerated shoulder design in 1980s style and proper nudity all pay tribute to the brand's classic symbols, so some fashion critics praised "Eve is back".

Jonathan Anderson

British reserve, neutral aesthetics

Jonathan Anderson became the creative director of Loewe on 20 13.

Under his leadership, Luo Yiwei redefined her traditional handicraft and innovative spirit, which lasted for 168 years, and opened the brand's future with a new look on the basis of retaining the tradition.

Roy is famous all over the world for making top leather goods, and his products are influenced by the traditional style of Arabs who occupied Spain in the early days.

Now, under the creative guidance of Jonathan Anderson, the core values of Lloyd's since its establishment-craftsmanship, innovation and unparalleled leather making technology-have been reinterpreted, and modern fashion and cultural awareness have been integrated into it.

Anderson first transformed Loewe's logo to make it more skinny, light and fashionable.

Then he launched a puzzle bag composed of 40 top skins, which made him establish an unshakable fashion position in Luo Yiwei and really brought Luo Yiwei back to life.

Anderson made up for the shortage of Loewe ready-made clothes with his imaginative and neutral aesthetic concept. The liveliness and enthusiasm of the traditional Spanish style collided with the British reserve, which produced new vitality.

Anderson firmly believes that the existence of gender distinction should not bind the clothes themselves, nor should there be a clear boundary between men's and women's clothes, and clothes should ultimately serve the people themselves.

Starting from 20 13, most of Loewe's advertising blockbusters are presented in the form of duets, one man and one woman, or both men and women, are interpreting similar or identical fashions, which opens the neutral era of Loewe.

Loewe in Anderson's hands is associated with the concept of "past, present and future" and retains its originality in leather products. Although there have been many changes, Loewe's brand spirit has always been there.

Phoebe Philo

Minimalism, capable and calm

There is a saying-"Chloe girl is the only way for half-cooked girls, and Celine woman is the ultimate goal of modern girls."

Chloe

When phoebe philo was the creative director of Celine, she successfully turned Celine into a modern and cool brand image of women, and brought minimalism and pragmatism to a new height.

Just like Phoebe's definition of her style-"powerful and strong-a kind of contemporary minimalism". Phoebe focuses on women's strength and strength, and shows modern minimalist style with clean tailoring, big silhouette and composure.

Clever and capable, with delicate colors and sharp edges, the style initiated by phoebe philo when he took charge of Celine is called the decade of minimalism-it is also Celine's golden decade.

Maria Grazia Churi

& Pierre Paul Piccioli

Romantic and retro, full of fairy tales

In 2008, Maria Grazia Churi and Pierre Paolo Piccioli were appointed as the joint creative directors of Valentino.

Their designs are light and elegant, full of Renaissance romanticism, and always have a fairyland-like romantic and tense design style. The two used tulle, embroidery, ornamentation and other elements freely, and the beauty of the craft was clean and pure.

I have met so many creative directors who make waves.

With their bright spots,

Do you have a favorite style?

Gender-free fashion has sprung up everywhere! Is fashion really divided into men and women?

How is beauty made? What rules does the public's aesthetics depend on?