When I was writing about Qiyun Mountain last night, I mentioned Tang Xianzu's poem, "If you want to know the gold and silver, you usually travel from Huangbai. I will never dream of going to Huizhou in my life." I have just entered Huizhou for a few days, and it's really I became deeply obsessed with Huizhou. As for Tang Xianzu's famous saying with unknown meaning, this is how I understand it. A dream that makes people obsessed for life may be what Huizhou looks like.
In the past few days, we have traveled from Chaji at the foot of Huangshan Mountain, to Emerald Valley, Bamboo Sea, Tachuan, Lucun, to Hongcun, Nanping and Xidi. Yesterday we came down from Qiyun Mountain, and When I arrived at Xiuning, Xucun, and Tangyue, I saw green scenery dripping with water, houses with pink walls and black tiles, small bridges, flowing water, horse-headed walls and cornices, and archways that silently told the vicissitudes of the years, flat and winding in the mountains. There are rural and county roads that are as high as highways, and the smelly mandarin fish with edamame beans teases the taste buds on the tip of the tongue. Even the soft and sticky Huizhou dialect sounds good... I really don't want to go home. , I really want to keep walking in Wannan like this.
I came down from Qiyun Mountain yesterday and passed through Xiuning. After lunch, I casually walked around the city. This county is located in Haiyang Town. The county was established in the Tang Dynasty. The urban area is embraced by mountains and the Jiaxi River runs through Rao. And passed. Xiuning has a long history and prosperous culture. It has been a gathering place for literati since ancient times. Not far from where we had lunch was the Zhuangyuan Museum. I was surprised when I entered the museum. It turned out that Xiuning was the county of No. 1 Scholar. It is said that there were 19 No. 1 Scholars in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and there were even more Jinshi and Jinshi.
As we approached She County, we passed Tangyue again. Tangyue Archway Group, located on the East Avenue of Tangyue Village, Zhengcun Town, She County, is a representative work of ancient Huizhou architectural art during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The seven-series archway group in Tangyue not only embodies the ethics of "loyalty, filial piety, festival, and righteousness" of Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism in Huizhou culture, but also includes the extremely rich "people-oriented" humanistic history. It is also a symbol of Huizhou merchants. An important testimony of more than 300 years in the business world. Every archway has a touching story with intertwined emotions. When Emperor Qianlong went to the south of the Yangtze River, he highly praised the Bao family, the owner of the Medal Shop, and called it "the first town in the south of the Yangtze River for its kindness and filial piety." It was almost dusk when we entered the archway group, and the light was poor. Looking at the Tangyue archways from a distance, they were arranged in groups, forming a dark gray silhouette, with green rapeseed fields on both sides. When I approached the archway and read it carefully, I suddenly felt like I was back in time. The prominent era of the archway owner.
The Tangyue Archway Group is less than ten kilometers away from the ancient city of Huizhou. After breakfast this morning, we entered the ancient city of Huizhou. The ancient city of Huizhou is the county seat of She County, which was called Xin'an County in ancient times. It was first built in the Qin Dynasty. Since the Tang Dynasty, it has been the seat of Huijun, state and prefectural government. Therefore, the county government and the prefectural government are in the same city, forming a unique style of a city within a city. One more thing to say here is that the origin of the name of Anhui Province is a combination of one word each for Anqing and Huizhou.
The ancient city of Huizhou is divided into an inner city and an outer city, with four gates in the east, west, north and south. In addition, the urn city, city gates, ancient streets, ancient alleys, etc. are still preserved. The ancient city of Huizhou is one of the four well-preserved ancient cities in China. We stood on the high city wall, overlooking the ancient city, and had a vague view of Huiyuan, government offices, Xu Guoshi Archway, Doushan Street, Tao Xingzhi Memorial Hall and other buildings.
Huizhou Government Office is a very representative ancient government office with a majestic architecture, while Dooshan Street is a representative of residential buildings, with deep walled courtyards and deep alleys, which are very traditional and historical in Huizhou. The commercial atmosphere on the ancient and newly renovated street is quite strong. Think about it, otherwise why would it be called Huizhou?
The river outside the ancient city is called Lianjiang. This Lianjiang River passing by the city is an important tributary of Xin'an River. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was the distribution center for goods from Huizhou to Jiangsu and Zhejiang. I think of the continuous flow of goods in those days. There must be many sails and rafters on the river, and the scenery is picturesque.
1.5km down the river is Yuliang Dam, a famous water conservancy facility known as "Jiangnan Dujiangyan". This ancient river dam was built in the Sui Dynasty and has a history of nearly 1,400 years. It cuts across the Lianjiang River and scientifically regulates the flow, making the water above the dam flat and the rapids below the dam rushing. There are many students sketching here, we and tourists taking photos here, and brides taking wedding photos. After seeing it, I didn’t think it was great. Only after entering the museum to learn more about it did I know the ancient use of Yuliang Dam. It turns out that ancient Huizhou had many waterway docks located upstream and downstream of Yuliang Dam. According to the legend compiled by Huizhou people, "it is said that when the water in Yuliang is thick, Huizhou will be prosperous, and when the water is shallow, Huizhou will be depleted." It means that Yuliang Dam, as a water conservancy project, assumes the function of the water outlet of the entire Huizhou Prefecture. The rapidity of the water flow under the dam determines the number of merchants coming and going, and is an important lifeline of Huizhou's economic life. For thousands of years, Huizhou merchants have boarded ships at such a pier and started their journey of life.
Although the ancient city of Huizhou is good, there is always a time to leave. In the afternoon, we left She County and headed to Huangshan again. Ancient villages like pearls on a string of pearls come into view from time to time. There are so many places in Zhengcun, Tangmo, Qiankou and Chengkan that I can only take a quick look at them. One place lasts for half an hour or an hour. My wife said that after watching too many places, my eyesight is tired and they all seem to be the same.
I know that the places we walked through are the core hinterland of ancient Huizhou, where deep in the alleys there are chickens and dogs and smoke curling up from cooking stoves, and around the villages and mountains are stacked like terraced fields. It has the iconic scenery of Huizhou, which seems to be a condensed picture of Huizhou thousands of miles away, showing the classic pictures of farming civilization.
But I also know that we have only scratched the surface. To write it down in depth, we have to go home to settle, think, and reminisce. Fortunately, what I wrote is an essay similar to a travel note.
Huizhou is hidden in the hinterland of mountains. In this ancient village in the mountainous area of ??southern Anhui, people have lived in tranquility for generations. Even during the war, because of the high mountains and dangerous roads, there was no war here. Despite the devastation, it is still a pure land on earth, and therefore these beautiful mountain villages have been completely preserved. In the past few days, we have not only seen the natural landscape of Huishan and Huishui, but also the agricultural and commercial civilization that continues to this day, including the street market in Yuliang Ancient Town, the relics of the ancient city of Shexian County, and the ink paintings of Hongcun. It conveys the vicissitudes of Chaji in the misty rain, the chanting and singing of ancient Huizhou opera, the nostalgia of the four treasures of the study, and the time and space travel of the Internet...The beauty of Huizhou is independent from the world and graceful and delicate. .
Huizhou is a heavy book, and you need to taste the bitter, spicy, sour and sweet inside little by little. Only those who have experienced it will know. When I walked through those ancient villages that were not "mainstream" and looked at the half-ripe rapeseed flowers and thought about this land, I seemed to have some enlightenment.
"I have never dreamed of going to Huizhou in my life." Once Tang Xianzu's poem is read out, it makes people dream.
In the spring season of Huizhou, the fragrance intensifies the season, brightens the body and mind, and calms the temperament. Walking on the road in Huizhou with my wife, I feel that everything is so peaceful and calm, so intoxicating...